REGA RB 600...Need HELP!!!
- Thread starter ODYOFAEL
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Pio1980
AK Member
I assume you are concerned with the azimuth (lateral) leveling? Does it look like that with most of your records either side? The error is fairly slight compared to getting the arm pillar height wrong. Arm pillar height adjustment is to level the cart's top front-to-back with the record surface to have the correct VTA/VRA relevant to the cartridge maker's spec. You can also use the cart's rear to line up to it's reflection to make that adjustment. Azimuth adjustment is usually not required with an arm of that class but if so is done elsewhere. Make sure that the arm's pillar is parallel to the platter spindle, the arm may not be perfectly aligned with the platter due to a mounting error of some sort.
thedelihaus
Nocturnal transmissions
Yes- the azimuth looks off.
What adaptor plate are you using?
You may need to shim the adaptor plate or arm mount on one side.
Great deal on that arm, by the way.
The azimuth issue aside, how do you like the arm on this table?
What adaptor plate are you using?
You may need to shim the adaptor plate or arm mount on one side.
Great deal on that arm, by the way.
The azimuth issue aside, how do you like the arm on this table?
ODYOFAEL
The Voice of Vintage HiFi
They move together so I am assuming it will not make any difference.
I used the original TD 125 armboard but used the blank side. (see pics). It came with a Mitchell VTA adjuster. I did try to play around with shims under the arm board but is this the proper way to solve this problem or is there an issue with the arm. I have installed a REGA RB 300 on my PROJECT 6.9 and did not encounter anything like this.:tears: Last 2 photos are measurements WITH NO spacers.
ripblade
Addicted Member
The issue is with the arm, a not uncommon one in fact. The usual fix is to shim the cartridge, but I read of one frustrated owner who hacked the arm just behind the shell and reglued it with proper azimuth using a dowel. The owner concluded the surgery also reduced the arm's well known tendency to ring.
In regards to this last point, you might want to explore a few of the tweaks levelled at this problem. The best ones are described in detail by Jeff Spall.
In regards to this last point, you might want to explore a few of the tweaks levelled at this problem. The best ones are described in detail by Jeff Spall.
Last edited:
ripblade
Addicted Member
Perhaps, although the photos clearly suggest otherwise. Both Origin Live and Michell Engineering machine the underside of the shell to correct this well known deficiency when performing upgrades.
Last edited:
ODYOFAEL
The Voice of Vintage HiFi
I used the oposite side of the original armboard. The flat hex head screws are the original ones and are hel by wing nuts at the bottom and will not affect the level. The the spirit level...
ODYOFAEL
The Voice of Vintage HiFi
Not a bad idea. Better than shims and spacers I would say.
Zodia
Super Member
Firstly, I wouldn't rely on a toothpick to get accurate measurements (the pointy ends are not cut the same every time). I'm sure you can find something around the home that is more accurate. Actually with the arm in the rest, you can use the level, unless you cut the ends of the toothpick.
Just a thought.
John
Just a thought.
John
markd51
Nyuk Nyuk
Harry at VPI always suggested a Pencil Lead. Mark
ODYOFAEL
The Voice of Vintage HiFi
I'm going to try that. Thanks.
poppachubby
Boo Yaka! Boo Yaka!
I just realised that the RB251 thread is yours. Have you considered trying to modify the head of the arm with a very fine finishing file or something of the like? Run the head along the file.
It would be a slow and boring task, perhaps best done while watching TV. It would also require a sure fire method of guaging its level.
It would be a slow and boring task, perhaps best done while watching TV. It would also require a sure fire method of guaging its level.
slate1
Well-Known Member
I guess I'll point out the obvious here... those are some nasty looking tool marks around the yoke of the bearing housing and on the stub/rear portion of the arm itself.
My guess is someone got a little over zealous with replacing the stub/counterweight with something like the Michell Tecnoweight.
Just sayin... that *might* have a bit to do with it...
My guess is someone got a little over zealous with replacing the stub/counterweight with something like the Michell Tecnoweight.
Just sayin... that *might* have a bit to do with it...
ODYOFAEL
The Voice of Vintage HiFi
I checked. They are casting flaws.I guess I'll point out the obvious here... those are some nasty looking tool marks around the yoke of the bearing housing and on the stub/rear portion of the arm itself.
My guess is someone got a little over zealous with replacing the stub/counterweight with something like the Michell Tecnoweight.
Just sayin... that *might* have a bit to do with it...
slate1
Well-Known Member
Even the ones on the arm? I've never seen anything like that on dozens of Rega arms that have come through my hands over the decades... unless someone has wrapped the arm in a cloth and bit down on it with a pair of plyers. A few small burs here or there maybe along the casting seams from the factory, but nothing like that. It looks like there might be marks on the stub too. Did you buy it used?
ODYOFAEL
The Voice of Vintage HiFi
They are just minor paint discoloration. No sign of any tool marks. Still smooth and has the original coating. I have fixed the problem though. And yes, I bought it used at AG. Will post pics later today.:thmbsp:
Last edited:
