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Started Recapping my 1060

quid_non@hot

quid_non@hot

Member
Got a vintage 1060 off da' bay recently. It worked, lots of hiss, had seen some use and was very dirty! After taking the case off and looking around, it was clear that someone had done some repair work on this in the past - no evidence of a recap, but someone had replaced the power switch, volume control pot and several other items. Headphone jack was in three pieces - parts all over the place. Power "on" lamp was burnt out.
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Started disassembly to clean boards prior to recap. Used 91% isopropanol in a spray bottle, tooth brush and compressed air to dry. Got alot of yellow, "tacky" goo off the boards. Ordered all caps from Digikey - replaced them w/ equal uf/voltage as possible with Elna Silmic IIs. Total cost for all caps was ~$50 (including the three big cans). Marked cap "polarity" on board w/ pen to make sure I could line up proper polarity for install of new cap

Cleaned all boards and chasis:
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Here's the "before" of the P800 power supply board:
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Now the "after recap"
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Recapped P900 Phono amp board:
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So far this is going slow, but steady. I am noticing several "errors" in the 1060 service manual and the actual board - this was noted by others before. Will summarize these (several wrong caps listed in the service manual) and follow up.

Will post more as it develops - thanks for looking.
Please offer any advice/ tips as the progress develops!
 
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quid_non@hot said:
So far this is going slow, but steady. I am noticing several "errors" in the 1060 service manual and the actual board - this was noted by others before. Will summarize these (several wrong caps listed in the service manual) and follow up.
Click to expand...

this will be very helpful and much appreciated by others (like me) that have yet to undertake this effort.

GOOD LUCK!
 
Jo6Pak said:
this will be very helpful and much appreciated by others (like me) that have yet to undertake this effort.

GOOD LUCK!
Click to expand...

Hi Joe!
Thanks for the kind reply! also - thanks for the info on the "big cans" - I elected to go with the Elna's = keep the cost of refurb down.

btw...
Thanks for the links to replace the headphone jack - got it today and it was perfect!
:yes:
 
quid_non@hot said:
Hi Joe!
Thanks for the kind reply! also - thanks for the info on the "big cans" - I elected to go with the Elna's = keep the cost of refurb down.
Click to expand...

no harm in saving some money! be sure to include them in your parts list at the end. i will likely go with those too. how well do they fit?
 
 
Coconuts 500 said:
The direct links are not fully correct, and will not work for everybody. Here they are for clickin' instead. :)

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=1356&pictureid=8723

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=1356&pictureid=8724

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=1356&pictureid=8725

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=1356&pictureid=8730

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=1356&pictureid=8729

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=1356&pictureid=8728

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=1356&pictureid=8732
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Thanks for the follow up - not sure what I am doing wrong. I can get the attachments to work fine, just not get images to show up in the post...
:no:
 
HAL9000 said:
Hi, nice job!. Why do you use ELNA SILMIC II ?
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Hi Hal!
Thanks for the reply and comment!
I'm using the ELna's mostly for three reasons:
1. Previoius posters recapping 1060s commented that they were "good" quaility
2. I was able to get almost all the caps from Digikey (mail order) and with one or two exceptions replaced them with exact uf/V cans
3. It saved on rebuild cost not to have to pay shipping/handling from different sources - sometines the S/H can be more thn a few "cans".

btw... can you see the pics now in my posts - I was having problems getting them to appear?

Thanks
 
Recap - To glue or not to glue replacements?

On several boards, the factory "cans" are glued to the PCB with some type of brown material. It is not the case for all boards - but noticeable on the power supply and amp boards. I'm assuming that this is important esp for a board that may get hot during use.

There was glue around all the caps on this board - before I replaced the cans

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with the new cans in place, should I also glue them? Any ideas on what to use - perhaps a hot melt from an electric glue gun??

Thanks
 
Very nice job so far. Here's a link to another 1060 recap thread, which I found helpful when I recapped mine:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=185299&highlight=1060

Somewhere in it EchoWars makes a recommendation to the larger value filter caps, and I also used the screw-terminal cap to replace the main cap, and the Elna Silmic IIs for most of the rest. What a difference! The bottom end was deeper, warmer, and tighter. Of course, that's compared to the old original caps. YMMV, but an upgrade to almost any major brand of new caps is bound to produce a *WOW*. It's an amazing little amp and I wish it was bridgeable.
 
No, do not glue the new caps in. The glue was there to make sure the big heavy caps wouldn't stress the circuit board and/or come loose during shipment.
 
quid_non@hot said:
Hi Hal!
Thanks for the reply and comment!
I'm using the ELna's mostly for three reasons:
1. Previoius posters recapping 1060s commented that they were "good" quaility
2. I was able to get almost all the caps from Digikey (mail order) and with one or two exceptions replaced them with exact uf/V cans
3. It saved on rebuild cost not to have to pay shipping/handling from different sources - sometines the S/H can be more thn a few "cans".

btw... can you see the pics now in my posts - I was having problems getting them to appear?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Okee!! thanks for the reply.
Yes i can see the pictures, very nicely done.

I don't like elna personally, They can't stand the heat very well...
But putting them in a almost heatless 1060 is fine.

Look for panasonic FC/FM/NHG 105 degree and nichicon PM(M) 105 degree also very good and very well priced!!

I do not use rubycon, BC(is good but expensive), IC (crappy),
 
Progress Continues!

Still making progress on the 1060 - started putting the components back on the main chasis - here's the re-mated power supply and matching board:
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Pulled out all components on the front end (switches, pots, jacks, etc...) cleaned the boards (isopropanol) and switches (deoxit) - disassembled switches to clean (carefully lost a spring on one of the switches :tears:...). Put all back together:
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Thanks to help from fellow AKer (JoeSixPak) found a new (to me) headphone jack and installed w/ resistors::thmbsp:

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Finished recap and clean up of 900 (phono amp) board::banana:
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Finally, included a few pics of tools used to make it all happen::yes:
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soldering iron - 25W (Rat Shack) in solder station

desoldering tools - 45W iron w/red buld (Rat Shack) + blue "solder sucker". I like the iron better for removing the old caps - you can melt the solder and remove with one hand)

various snips, wire cutters, 60/40 solder, desoldering "braid" ribbon

Deoxit, 91% isopropanol (get at local drug store for ~$1.50), spray bottle has dilute "simple green" - use it to clean boards along with isopropanol

toothbrush and acid brush to clean PC boards

I also found a lighted magnafier is useful for inspecting solder jobs. Also a visor magnafier comes in handy too:
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Also included a pic of the clamp on DVM (digital volt meter) used to check amperage, voltage bias, resistance, etc... In this pic I have it set to measure the uF (capacitance) of each new cap installed - here is the actual measurement of a new, Elna can - label says 4.7uF @ 25V - meter says
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Overall - it is a slow process (not in a hurry), but not difficult. I found taking LOTS of pictures, labeling wires prior to cutting them and attention to detail is working well. Getting the old caps off the boards is not difficult - you HAVE to have a good desoldering tool and patience. The hardest part is removing enough solder to "bend" the lead up - then the cap falls off board. Resoldering is simple - just place in the board w/ the right polarity, bend the leads to hold the can in tight, snip excess lead, then solder.

Hope all the work will pay off - still need t find a replacement "power on" bulb (8V) and a replacment spring for the switch.

Thanks for looking - look forward to any comments/ advice!
 
HAL9000 said:
Okee!! thanks for the reply.
Yes i can see the pictures, very nicely done.

I don't like elna personally, They can't stand the heat very well...
But putting them in a almost heatless 1060 is fine.

Look for panasonic FC/FM/NHG 105 degree and nichicon PM(M) 105 degree also very good and very well priced!!

I do not use rubycon, BC(is good but expensive), IC (crappy),
Click to expand...

Good advice - thanks!
Next recap job - panasonic it is!!:yes:
 
Jo6Pak said:
hey man - how 'bout a progress update?!
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Thanks for keeping up!
Things are moving along - - all of the boards were recapped - after getting into it I found several caps on the boards that were different than on the specs - had to order more parts from Digikey (they are fast!!). Went ahead and ordered a new power-on lamp from parts express - it is lower amperage, but fits perfect. Started to put the unit back together - got the boards back in and most of the wires resoldered to the posts. This is a REAL PITA :tears:. If I was going to repeat the process I would figure out how to recap boards w/o totally removing them from the unit (cutting wires).

Any way, some additional progress pics...
In total replaced 39 cans.... Cleaned the heatsink, posts and mylar gaskets for the four power transitiors and reassembled.

Looking forward to seeing if this powers on and does not blow up!:no:
More later!!
 

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lookin' good! you obviously have a LOT more patience than i do. i'm guessing your eyesight is better, as well.

after you're finished and if not too much trouble, a list of those 39 cans would be very helpful, once i get up the nerve to dive into mine...
 
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