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KEF 103/4 disassembly: a photo guide

Sir.Byrd

Lunatic Member
Last week a customer brought me these speakers to work on:
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But the catch is, the two woofers that need repair are inside the cabinet! How do you get to them?
Before you start make sure you have the right tools, you'll need quite a few for this project.
You need a 5/12" hollow-shafted socket driver, a #2 philips screwdriver, a pair of needle nose pliers, a normal pair of pliers, a of wire cutters, a wire stripper, a flat tool to pry, a hex driver or allen wrench, a soldering iron, solder, desolder wick.
Optional: plastic case to hold pieces
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First, you must invert the speaker:
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Remove the screws you find here, carefully pry the cover off, I used a flathead screwdriver.
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You'll find fluff, remove this to reveal your first victim.
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Voila!
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Use your socket driver here to remove the four nuts:
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You will also need to remove that center bolt. I didn't have a socket driver large enough for it so I carefully used needle nose pliers, this is a very long bolt so it takes some time.
It is not necessary but highly recommended to have some sort of container for all of the parts you remove.
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For some reason KEF wanted to make these extra hard, so the wires are soldered in place, I might replace these with quick connect terminals, but maybe not.
Clip the wires, making sure to leave some of the insulation for when you reconnect the wires. You could also desolder the wires, and write down which wires go where.
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This is what it should look like:
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Here is your first driver:
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Driver #2

Now stand the speaker upright and take a look at the crossover plate.
This is held in with a few hex head screws. You'll need an allen wrench for these, or a hex-driver.
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You'll be presented by a bunch of wires, and a hole with fluff in it, remove the fluff to reveal the second driver. Remove the quick connect wires, marking their placement on the board, and clip or desolder the two wires that are not quick connects (WHY???)
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And here you are:
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Use your socket driver to remove the nuts. My driver was too tall and ran into the screw in the front left corner (looking in) so I had to remove one of the nuts with pliers.
Next you will need to remove the center bolt on the magnet. This will not work unless you reach through the port and grab the aluminum piece connecting the two drivers. I used pliers here.
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There will be two wires paralleled off of the top driver's terminals that will need to be desoldered or snipped, I cut them.
Here is your bottom woofer!
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I already had one of the other woofers refoamed
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Nice guide. Those Kefs with ninja-woofers hidden inside that bandpass subenclosure can be a pain to access, especially in the larger ones.

For removing access panels, I find a car dent puller suction cup is handy.
 
Another tool that could be used is an upholstery staple remover, be careful with prying though, go slow.
 
that just looks like it sucks... I would much rather have somebody else do it, I would loose my patience way to easily. Nice work though. The bolt in the enter threw me off, I have never seen that before.
 
that just looks like it sucks... I would much rather have somebody else do it, I would loose my patience way to easily. Nice work though. The bolt in the enter threw me off, I have never seen that before.

That's what they pay me the big bucks for!



(they don't really...)
 
Did a pair of 103/3. The single woofer was very much like the bottom one of the 103/4, complete with (short) soldered leads. Never want to have to do that again. Glad they did not have the second woofer.

Dreading the day my 107s will need to be redone!
 
Good job and nice pics!
When you loosened the nut and removed the woofer was there a "tension rod" between the two drivers and did it move around much when loose?
 
Yes there was a rod connecting the two drivers, that is what the bolt on either speaker is for, I don't understand what you are trying to ask though. Without the woofers it is not attached to anything.
 
I know it's attached to the woofers, I'm just curious if only one nut has to be removed in order for the rod to slide out the bottom side...I cheated on my 104/2's by splicing the donut dust covers:)
 
Good Lord!!!! :sigh: I hope those KEF's are special sounding speakers for all of that work,,never heard a pair here.... You Sir should get an award for that pair!
 
I know it's attached to the woofers, I'm just curious if only one nut has to be removed in order for the rod to slide out the bottom side...I cheated on my 104/2's by splicing the donut dust covers:)

Well you could only remove the bolt from the top woofer I suppose, but you will have to remove the rod from the other speaker anyway to refoam it. I removed the rod through the port, there was plenty of room.

Good Lord!!!! :sigh: I hope those KEF's are special sounding speakers for all of that work,,never heard a pair here.... You Sir should get an award for that pair!

It's all in a day's work. I am getting compensated for an hour's time, though in reality I spent about that just on this guide. But it is made up for by making someone else have an easier time.

Question? Why does it need the inner o ring?

There is a rod that goes through the pole piece, a normal dustcap does not work. A spider could have been used instead but I imagine KEF didn't want to lose any compliance.
 
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