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Fisher Statesman 202t woes

M

melvin87144

New Member
This is my first post and I am a novice at best where tube equipment is concerned. As a result, I am open to any advice short of asking me if I have plugged in a unit that is not powering up.
I recently purchased a Fisher Statesman II Console (circa 1961 I believe). It is the provincial model and seems to literally weigh a ton. In order to transport it, I removed the Fisher 202T Preamp/Tuner, The Fisher SA-100 Amp, and the Garrard Type A Laboratory Series Turntable. The unit worked when powered up to test it before the purchase with the only issue being some crackling and popping from the speakers at lower volume. I was careful to treat each component gently as I removed them BUT when I got home and plugged in the Preamp there was no power. I have plugged in the Amp and the tubes glow and I have hooked the turntable into another system and everything works beautifully with it. The only information I have found online referring to problems with the 202T that coincides with my experience so far addresses the problematic AC power switch (combined with the volume adjust). It seems like the odds are against the switch going bad at just this moment but I'm sure there is a universal law that would dispute me on it. Any thoughts from those who have experienced similar problems or know someone who has would be appreciated.
 
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Can you edit your profile to give us an idea where in the world you live. A county and state is fine. If a Fisher owner is near you might be able to get a Fisher Knowledgeable person to look at it in person. Barring that,

I take it the only connection between the SA-100 and the 202-T is The RCA cables to the SA-100 from the 202-T??? That's the impression I get from your post.

1.) make sure all tubes and wire connections are tight.
2.) Fuses are known to blow from jostling while in transit.
3.) If the 202T has a switched outlet, check for power there using your DMM and switch the unit on and off with the switch.
4.) Check the Rectifier tube (EZ-81).
5.) Check for any tubes on the 202-T lighting up at all. Dark Rooms work well for this.
6.) Check Voltages on the secondary side of the transofrmer with the switch in both positions.

See if the Moderator will move this to the FISHER FORUM. You'll get a good deal more ideas and specialized help there.

Larry


Joint the Yahoo Fisher Group. they have a '61 Statesman Schematics in pdf there.
 
Especially check the fuse. I remember reading a post awhile back where someone had this same issue. It seems his fuse got jossled out of the holder during transit.
 
We've had a Provincial Statesman II pass through once before - one of the nicer Fisher consoles to surface in these forums:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=176951

I don't suppose yours can be traced back to Florida, can it? The odds are certainly against it, but if it is that one then both chassis were restored by NOSValves. The chassis photos in the thread above are clear enough to read the serial numbers if you suspect you have that Statesman.

If yours is a new and unrestored Statesman II then Larry's advice above is excellent. I am assuming, based our your description of the problem, that there is no power, no tube filaments glowing, no dial lights - no nothing, right? Then, if you have power at the auxillary outlets on the back panel and it was working prior to transportation then I would suspect the EZ81 rectifier tube. Among the Fishers I have messed with - and that's my level of expertise - I have brought more Fishers back to life by replacing EZ81s than any other tube. I believe I have the Sam's schematic for the 202-T all ready scanned so I can send you a copy if you'd like - just PM me with your email.

If you have tubes glowing but no signal then it could be something as simple as having the output selector switch set to "stereo" without having an MPX unit connected. Bare in mind that the 202-T is a pre-MPX tuner and requires an outboard MPX decoder to receive stereo FM. Set the output selector to the "A (FM)" setting for mono FM.
 
Thanks Guys......I have checked the fuse and it looks good. Replaced it anyway with one I knew to work and nothing. When I say nothing, I mean nothing. Not even power to the rear plugs. I believe these plugs are both switched plugs. It does seem that there is no contact being established at the AC power switch. Looking at the rectifier, it looks quite clean and clear if that means anything. Would a bad rectifier result in no power anywhere in the unit? Even the switched plugs.
 
The florida unit is not mine. 202T is number 31137D here. Beginning to wish it was tho. Not really.....I can appreciate a challenge. I'm patient and it bonds me with her if I'm involved in a resuscitation.
 
melvin87144 said:
Thanks Guys......I have checked the fuse and it looks good. Replaced it anyway with one I knew to work and nothing. When I say nothing, I mean nothing. Not even power to the rear plugs. I believe these plugs are both switched plugs. It does seem that there is no contact being established at the AC power switch. Looking at the rectifier, it looks quite clean and clear if that means anything. Would a bad rectifier result in no power anywhere in the unit? Even the switched plugs.
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The only thing between the power cord and the switched plugs is the switch itself. (Yes, they are both switched plugs.) The fuse is downstream from the plugs. What kind of shape is the power cord and outlet plug in?

There is a capacitor from just before the switch to ground to reduce arcing in the switch. If it fails shorting to ground it would likely blow the circuit breaker for the outlet your using or perhaps cause a small fireworks display. If it fails open then I doubt you would notice until the switch contacts burned out. If you know what you're doing you can bypass the power switch to confirm or refute that that is the problem.
 
TheRed1 said:
If it fails shorting to ground it would likely blow the circuit breaker for the outlet your using or perhaps cause a small fireworks display.
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Looking at the schematic again and thinking very hard I believe this may be an incorrect statement. The big AC from the outlet is isolated from the chassis ground by the transformer. If that capacitor fails shorting to ground it may ONLY energize the chassis and make it dicey to handle but not blow the circuit breaker. Be very careful under there.
 
The trusty voltmeter would come in handy if the trusty voltmeter was not packed away in a box somewhere amongst many other boxes. I improvised with a loop wire and made the necessary connections. On my unit a Red, Black, and Orange wire travel under the hood on the back of the power switch. The hood/cowling had to be removed by removing solder that holds it in place. Would anyone take the time to apply that kind of workmanship to anything today? I don't think so!! Connecting the Red and Orange posts established power to the rear plugs. Connecting the Red and Black posts established power to the preamp. MY NEW BABY IS ALIVE!!! Now I just need to hook up components and see if she cries. I'm picking up the rest of the cabinet Thursday evening. The speakers are still in place as all the connections to them where soldered. They were connected to the SA-100 via three wires (one to the 8 Ohm post, one to the 16 Ohm post, and one to the Ground Post. I'll see what info there is out there about hooking speakers to the SA-100 Amp when only two wires are involved. Any help from you guys would be appreciated.
Thanks for all the feedback.......I'll post some picks when the luster is renewed.
 
That's great news, Melvin. I'm glad it was something so simple.

Your speaker arrangement sounds a little complicated. Do you recall how many individual speaker drivers there are in the console? There's a chance you may have a 1960 Statesman I. If there are eight speakers - including four 3" normal tweeters - then you have the original 1960 model 1010 Statesman. If there are six speakers - including two horn type tweeters - then you have the 1961 model S-70 Statesman II like mcsteam22's. His horn tweeters were Corals and they had problems.

It's possible that the wire leading to the 8 ohm terminal leads to a "wide surround" terminal of some sort. It may be an RCA jack labeled WSI. The 16 ohm tap should lead to your onboard speakers via the crossover network.
 
melvin87144 said:
MY NEW BABY IS ALIVE!!! Now I just need to hook up components and see if she cries. I'm picking up the rest of the cabinet Thursday evening. The speakers are still in place as all the connections to them where soldered. They were connected to the SA-100 via three wires (one to the 8 Ohm post, one to the 16 Ohm post, and one to the Ground Post. I'll see what info there is out there about hooking speakers to the SA-100 Amp when only two wires are involved. Any help from you guys would be appreciated.
Thanks for all the feedback.......I'll post some picks when the luster is renewed.
Click to expand...


Well, your questions have now become my questions. Did you see my jaw drop when I auditioned the speakers?
Those speakers are really going to sound nice through the sa100. I need a schematic first.

Thank you for everything :thmbsp:, I hope I can remember your instructions.
Here it is in all its glory.

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Steve
 
audiodon said:
You're on a roll. You'll need a bigger living space soon if you keep this up.
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I got the go ahead to move it into the living room. :thmbsp:

This summer I'm cutting the SS umbilical cord. That should free up some room.


Steve
 
Yeah, sold off the last of my SS gear except for the home theater stuff. That's not really for music listening with that plasma distraction in front of me.
 
audiodon said:
Yeah, sold off the last of my SS gear except for the home theater stuff. That's not really for music listening with that plasma distraction in front of me.
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I'm letting my citation 19 amplifiers go. I've had them 30 years. No turning back now.

This little guy will more than foot the bill.


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Steve
 

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Congratulations, Steve! It's gorgeous!

Maybe you can answer the question I put to Melvin: Is it a 1960 model 1010 or a 1961 model S-70? (8 speakers = 1960; 6 speakers, including 2 HF horns = 1961)
 
TheRed1 said:
Congratulations, Steve! It's gorgeous!

Maybe you can answer the question I put to Melvin: Is it a 1960 model 1010 or a 1961 model S-70? (8 speakers = 1960; 6 speakers, including 2 HF horns = 1961)
Click to expand...

Melvin told me these amazing sounding speakers have the horns.


Steve


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