• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Sprague 716P Orange Drop, 200V & 400V Where to Buy ?

perchdog

perchdog

AudioDouchebag
I have been using the 600V version of the 716P. Space is kind of limited and I am pretty sure I can go down to 400V version in some of my more crowded positions and possibly 200V. Does anyone know where I can buy the lower voltage versions ? Looking for 0.010uF and 0.047uF especially...
 
Register to hide this ad
No dice at tube depot... Again must be 716P series, 400V and or 200V.

Mouser shows 0.010 @ 200V min qty 1025 pc, nothing in 400V.

Digikey, why bother.

Antique elect does carry 400V but no 200V.

I know thre has to be other sources out there
 
OOOoooooo... this is a hot topic. Are these current production? Old caps are not necessarily good caps. That has no regard to whether they are electrolytic or not.

Just a warning....
 
Personally, I would not reduce working voltage from 600 to 200, or even 400. unless no power supply voltages ecxeed either of those amounts. But thats just me.
 
Grainger49 said:
OOOoooooo... this is a hot topic. Are these current production? Old caps are not necessarily good caps. That has no regard to whether they are electrolytic or not.

Just a warning....
Click to expand...

KY40's I do use, otherwise I try to stay with current production on either electrolytic or non
 
cool, it seems the 400V versions are available at several different sources. I have yet to run into the 200V versions though
 
Grainger49 said:
OOOoooooo... this is a hot topic. Are these current production? Old caps are not necessarily good caps. That has no regard to whether they are electrolytic or not.

Just a warning....
Click to expand...

This is my thought on the old wives' tail that gets perpetrated.
Old electrolytic caps are candidates for replacement because the paste that is used as a dielectric dries up and breaks down over time, if used or NOS.
Film / foil or metalized film (i.e. orange drops) will last 'til your long gone and then some if they have not been stressed or overheated.
Paper in oil is a little more dicey: I'm using Sprauge Vitamin Q's that were made when I was running around with a snotty nose (a long time ago, trust me) but they are about bullet proof. West Cap, Sangamo, Russian K40y and K42y and others with the sealed glass ends are in the same class. Most, but not all "bumble bee" (these are the ones with plastic bodies and colored stripes) caps tend to leak DC voltage therefore are a candidate for the trash can (although you can usually sucker some guitar guy into buying them).
Mica, teflon and ceramic caps are fairly exempt from failure. They only exemption needing replacement in ceramic are the X - Y or "death caps" on old electronics power cords.
Sometimes the adage is true, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" but you need to know what is "broke" not just lump everything together.
 
Last edited:
ferninando said:
Personally, I would not reduce working voltage from 600 to 200, or even 400. unless no power supply voltages ecxeed either of those amounts. But thats just me.
Click to expand...

Help out the fat dumb kid here. I see lots of 400v coupling caps in old gear, but if you measure "across" the cap in operation, the voltage can be a lot less. The "potential" to ground is that high maybe, but they aren't going to ground, they are going to grids. I've always wondered about this, and now seems like the time to ask. Thanks, Jay:yes:
 
jaymanaa said:
Help out the fat dumb kid here. I see lots of 400v coupling caps in old gear, but if you measure "across" the cap in operation, the voltage can be a lot less. The "potential" to ground is that high maybe, but they aren't going to ground, they are going to grids. I've always wondered about this, and now seems like the time to ask. Thanks, Jay:yes:
Click to expand...

Actually Jaymanaa,

How did you know I was a fat kid :D

But anyhow, where I am looking to use these are more so in integrated amps, normally hanging off swtches, controls and that sort of thing. I usually seem to run into some pretty cramped areas in these type applications
 
I was talking about my fat ice cream addicted butt.:yes: Yep, it's caps like that may have very low voltages on them. It makes me think they just used the high voltage jobs so they didn't have to stock so many different caps.:dunno: I have personally used 200 volt caps for coupling phase splitters to outputs where the originals were 400. Never had a problem, and the voltage is well under 200 volts.
 
ahhh, ice cream :drool::drool::drool:

Yeah there are lots of applications that don't require the higher voltage caps and I can understand the stocking issue. But time after time I run into situations where I need to really cram these things in there.
My immeadiate need has been taken care of but I am just looking for sources for future projects. I also understand sometimes it is so good to use a way high voltage cap on low voltage application, depending on cap construction. Not that it hurts the cap but it just not take full advantage of thier best properties.
 
Last edited:
jaymanaa said:
Help out the fat dumb kid here. I see lots of 400v coupling caps in old gear, but if you measure "across" the cap in operation, the voltage can be a lot less. The "potential" to ground is that high maybe, but they aren't going to ground, they are going to grids. I've always wondered about this, and now seems like the time to ask. Thanks, Jay:yes:
Click to expand...

Good question Jay!
You are right that a cap may only see the potential across the grid in operation but because a higher voltage as referenced to ground, as you pointed out, is there, it is done as a safety factor especially if you miswired or something shorted to ground it would help prevent catastrophic failure when powered on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom