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Help the Newbie Crack the Case

Taylor Player

Taylor Player

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Okay, so I want to get inside my first wood encased receiver (Sylvania CR 2743) to clean it up and for the life of me, I CAN'T figure out how to the get the chassis out. There are no screws that I can see on the face, sides or top. There are limited screws on the base, but as far as I can tell that IS the chassis bottom. Still I removed them thinking it would pull out from the front, but no go: the back panel has flanges that sit inside a channel on the top of the case and the bottom of the back panel appears to be glued to the base...

Check out the pics and please, share any insight you may have on how to get into this thing before my temper gets the best of me.

Thanks in advance....

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I have a Sansui 4000 with a wood case that required the removal of the feet/screws in order to free the case. Yours might require the same with the four rubber feet I see on the underside. Give that a try and see if that does the trick.
 
I was thinking that you may have to remove all the bottom screws (c'ept those 4 marked do not remove) and then loosen the back panel, pull the bottom of the back panel out and down (to get the top of the back panel out of the groove) and then slide everything out the back.

Are those screws holding the back on or rivets?

Is there a chance that the silver bezel on front pops off and there are screws under the bezel?

Don't let your temper get the best of you, deep breaths, relax, maybe put on some mellow Peter Green....
 
Thanks for the replies so far. I did try removing the feet screws but they're really short wood screws and barely go through the chipboard. I had also removed the other bottom screws (except the 4 marked "do not remove), still tight as a drum. The back panel has no screws to speak of, only rivets used to mounting inputs etc.

The front bezel in an interesting place to look further as I originally thought it was two pieces as it does appear to have a seam of some sort, but I've not been able to get them apart. Even if I did, it would leave the issue of the flange on the upper back panel which is locked into the groove, preventing the chassis from sliding forward (or backward for that matter)

And thanks for the advice on keeping my cool. Now that I know I've got the AK community on my side, I know I will be victorius: the Sylvania will not be sitting there mocking me for much longer!
 
Is there any give or play when you push/pull the unit? Also, in the 4th pic there is a groove cut into the top piece wherein the edge of the back plate fits into, if you were to us a screwdriver or putty knife and lift up on the top piece to clear the back plate from the groove would this release the unit and allow it to slide out?
 
As seen in the 4th photo you posted....you need to pry the black back cover out of the slot cut in the case. There is a "U" cut in the black back cover were a screw driver shaft would fit.
 
Success! (sort of)

There was a flat nut on the stem under the balance knob and the jack plate for the headphones was holding the front faceplate in on the opposite end.

Got the front plate off, and four screws were holding the front end into the cabinet, popped those off and half of the chassis slid forward enough for me to get my can of Deoxit in there to clean the controls which was my main concern for this unit. If I can get the back panel popped off I can disconnect the wiring harnesses and remove the chassis completely. That is still tricky: Wattusay was right, I was able to pop the middle lip out of the slot on the back, but there are other lips on either end as well that don't have the cut out for the screwdriver.

Anyway, I wanted to post the update...thanks for all of the input. Now back to the workbench...
 
I have a CR-2742.
Yes, you must remove the front panel-then there will be 4 more screws holding the chassis in. The "flip" switch knobs actually screw off-not pull off.
For everyone's future ref.
 
HackerJohn1 said:
I have a CR-2742.
Yes, you must remove the front panel-then there will be 4 more screws holding the chassis in. The "flip" switch knobs actually screw off-not pull off.
For everyone's future ref.
Click to expand...

Got that far, but how do I disconnect the wires to at the back of the unit to pull the chassis all the way out? Does the screen pop out so I can gain access through that opening?
 
Looking at the pictures the bottom MDF does not look to be glued in, note the gap where the tongue slides into the groove. Perhaps if you remove all but the four marked screws the bottom board will slide out allowing the chassis to drop and clear the upper groove.
 
Taylor Playe said:
Got that far, but how do I disconnect the wires to at the back of the unit to pull the chassis all the way out? Does the screen pop out so I can gain access through that opening?
Click to expand...

Yes-if I remember right you can "wrestle" the rear panel off, then just disconnect the wires.
 
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