The Fisher Custom Electra VIII - model E490 EAC

this followed me home today.



thought I would document before I start tearing her apart for recapping. I believe I found the schematic here:

http://www.fisherconsoles.com/service%20manuals/FISHER%20ELECTRA%2048WA%2049IPA%20SM.pdf

and here is the rest of the photo album: http://imgur.com/a/5JIGA

Beautiful console! EAC = Early American Cherry. There was also a maple version with the cabinet code: EA. I picked up an almost identical '66 E-491 EAO Custom Electra a few years ago:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=132848

The cabinet code on the one I found - EAO - doesn't appear in any of my sources but I presume the "O" stands for oak. I prefer the dark cherry veneer on yours vs. the somewhat muddy looking EAO finish. Your Fisher-branded Miracord 10-F looks so much nicer than the Dual 1010 that came in the '66s. The condition of yours looks excellent - how does it function? Does it have its original Pickering V15F/AT cartridge?

I passed on the '66 Custom Electra to a friend who is has it set up in her dining room. She uses it whenever she entertains. What are your plans for your Custom Electra? Do you know any of its history?

Sweet CE VIII. Mine is French Provincial. That Miracord 10F is a really good idler. If the idler wheel has a small dimple in it(from sitting), run it for between 4-6 hours @ 78rpm which sometimes works the dimple out. If it doesn't send it to Terry Witt to be rebuilt(Terrysrubberrollers.com I think). The other thing I've found is the .5 snubber cap on the TT will allow a loud "POP" when powering off and on. Which means it needs to be replaced. Be careful as the switch housing is somewhat brittle. Had to reconfigure one of mine with a Micro switch epoxied to the remains of the housing.

The amp has had the bias mod done to it. No adjustments are necessary. Picking the right sized caps (both uf/voltage and physical size) you can recap including the cans' all underneath. There's not a lot of room underneath tho, so be careful on the cap dimensions.

Larry

it has a Realistic R47EB and Shure RSEB. I found it on CL for $300 but only paid 100 from the guy. it was his wife's mother's. she was 105 when she passed this year. it is immaculate in condition but needs amp restoring.

when I turn it on I get a really low hum. when I turn it up it dissappears, but when I turn it up higher the audio degrades and gets all crackly. I think that may be the power supply cans, which is the first thing i'm going to change out. the TT worked on first try, no problems.

I just think it looks really nice and I love that it has a headphone jack!

oh and the string for the radio tuner snapped at some point. anyone have a good place to find those?

if your ordering caps from antique electric, you may awant to modify order. look under radio parts / resto, radio dial items.


i think this is what your looking for, sweet little console btw. i have a big soft spot for the miracord's

I see the dial drive cable there, thanks. will be buying new caps from Mouser since they have the best selection.

The turn on hum in the 49A/T combo,(I've done 3 in the last 1-1/2 years) is from the MULTI Can cap in the center of the amp. As little space that is in the amp in that area, I'd put a multi section can in from Tom @ Hayseed Hamfest. There isn't a lot of space in the amp but you can solder some 5-7 lead terminal strips along the edge near the CARDBOARD Caps and mount the individual caps along the strips. (Look up my old threads on the 49A/T on the CE VIII). I did post some pics on how I originally did this. I've since taken the 1st amp and redone the caps with multi section caps from Hayseed. Opens up the interior.


If you feel REALLY Adventurous, regrease the TO-3's(output transistors). I've found the grease has dried out and has lost it's effectiveness. The BIAS MOD that is outlined in the Service Manual has been done on this amp. (note the lack of the 4 pots on the amp).

Good luck. If you have problems, I'll dig up the pics.

EDIT: ADDED PIC of 59A amp. The 59A is identical to the 49A except for the FINALS. 8 transistors for the 59A vs. 4 transistors for the 49A. All the caps, resistors, transistors, diodes, etc., are identical. It just has 8 transistors, and associated resistors, and caps in the final.

C-20 A thru D is the 4 section Multi. C-23 and 28 are the 3K/35V cans. Note the Terminal Strip I installed to handle 23 and 28. I also placed 20 B & C between the resistors as shown in the schematic, which shortened the wiring path. 20A and 20D are located in their respective wiring areas with as short a wiring path as I could make it at the time. I marked all lytics with a black Sharpie. I still have one coupling cap to install on the 12ax7.

Larry