Cleaning those pesky Pots on QLS1s

jt45

Super Member
Tweeter levels on my left speaker were lower than the right despite trying to adjust them to balance the levels so I decided to clean those pots with some DeOxit D5. The results were very good even though they didn't look any cleaner than they did using a generic electronics cleaner.

Im posting a few pics for anyone else who decides to break out their DeOxit
pull out these big ole Quantum Crossovers !

Removed the Woofer and the Polyfill from the cabinet. Since my crossovers
have been out before I only had to remove some screws to get the crossovers out. They usually have staples holding them in.

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Be sure to mark where those driver wires are located (by Color) before removing them. Then I moved everything to the bench.

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Pic of the Driver wire connector rails and the Resistor for the Midbass Coupler as well as one for the middomes. (midbass resistor is a 5.4 ohm 25w) (middome resistor is a 2.7 ohm 25w)
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Take off the knob and keeper nut and the Tweeter control pot comes right out.(note the other pots need to have the wires desoldered to get them out) Pry out the end of the clip that holds the pot together, then go at it with the DeOxit (A fine wire brush or stiff toothbrush helps here)
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A couple more shots of those old caps wich are getting replaced in the coming weeks.
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Back together and sounding better
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Great pics!
Are you going to change out the capacitors while the crossover boards are out, especially the shockingly small electrolytic for the midbass coupler?
 
Great pics!
Are you going to change out the capacitors while the crossover boards are out, especially the shockingly small electrolytic for the midbass coupler?

I went ahead and put them back in to check the results of the cleaning, Tweeter levels are great on both sides now. I had been skeptical of DeOxit D5
being any better than a commercial grade cleaner I had at work, but the difference using the D5 is substantial .
I have had them out enough thats its getting easier, I didn't use a sealer on the crossover plate or woofers until I get them Recapped, wich Im planning to do just as soon as those caps come in. I have been wondering if the Poly-fill is as good as lining the inside of the cabs with a good batting material. I may add an extra brace in the woofer compartment also when I do the final recap.
 
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Those look in real good shape. here's what they could like... took these out of my 2 sets of Q3's. didn't even bothe opening a couple. Had some crossovers I bought on "The Auction Site" as backups...
LOL !!!! NICE LOOKING QLS 1's :drool:
JOHN

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Those look in real good shape. here's what they could like... took these out of my 2 sets of Q3's. didn't even bothe opening a couple. Had some crossovers I bought on "The Auction Site" as backups...
LOL !!!! NICE LOOKING QLS 1's :drool:
JOHN

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Wow thats a big pic, those look like they have had some water in them at some point, Although mine were pretty green the first time I cleaned them.

Your Avatar is cool !
 
hmmmm

There was someone selling the ones that look like mine on Ebay for $50 ea. awhile ago. :thumbsdn: they weren't even cleaned up. :no:
If they are in a humid cool enviro. like a basement and they get warm when cranking the sound then cool off the water condenses
on them and there you have it "corrosion"
John
 
Excellent JT! Excellent. This one's definately going in the archive!

Thanks jim Iv'e had plenty of practice since back when you helped with those binding post. :thmbsp: One thing about QLSs Iv'e noticed is you get pretty familiar with them fast getting everything up to snuff.
 
There was someone selling the ones that look like mine on Ebay for $50 ea. awhile ago. :thumbsdn: they weren't even cleaned up. :no:
If they are in a humid cool enviro. like a basement and they get warm when cranking the sound then cool off the water condenses
on them and there you have it "corrosion"
John

Your right humidity is hard on those pots, there should be a solid state alternative to them but I haven't seen one yet.
 
On the really bad ones I use Flitz or Maas until the metal is as clean as new, wash everything with 99% isopropyl and then bathe with Nu-Trol and reassemble. Caig works well too, but the MG stuff leaves a nice oil film. Gives me a little peace of mind as far as protection longevity is concerned.
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/401b.html
I lubricate the shaft where it goes through the housing with a little dab of silicone paste too. Makes the control nice and smooth.
If your metal and contacts are still solid will work and last like new.
 
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