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Starting my Au-999 Recap

tobyj17

tobyj17

Comfortably Numb
Now that Cobblefest is over, and my speaker project is near complete.. I've got some time to get my cap list together, and place an order. Here's my Worklog so far:


F-1159 boards (quantities for two boards)

16v 47uf (bi-polar) (x2)
25v 100uf (x2)

Flying saucers that need to be replaced: TR811, TR813, TR807 and TR805

Resistors that need to be replaced: R847 (both boards, see pics)

F-1228 board
10v 47uf (x2)
25v 10uf (x2)
6.3v 33uf (x2)

F-1208

25v 10uf (x2)

F-1209 (quantities for two boards)

25v 10uf (x4)
10v 47uf (x4)
25v 33uf (x2)

F-1277

50v 100uf (x1)
50v 4.7uf (x1)

Flying saucer# TR824

F-1230

50v 220uf (x3)
50v 100uf (x2)

F-1231

50v 100uf (x1)
50v 4.7 (x1)
Flying saucer# TR 823

Miscellaneous caps not on a board:

50v 1uf (x4)
50v 2.2uf (x2)

Main Filter caps:

50v 4700UF

Keen eyes would notice that I missed one board, and that was the infamous "crowbar protect". I'm going to remove it, so no need to even list it..


Now to look up the saucers and some other misc. components that Should be replaced ... and to upload some more detailed pics. Stay tuned :thmbsp:
 
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note the stacked resistors on R847:
photobucket-3803-1318374732488.jpg


And the cracked one on the other board:
photobucket-3553-1318374701222.jpg


Saucer on F-1277
photobucket-6348-1318374541448.jpg


Misc. loose caps not on a board.. One actually has the bottom blown out of it
photobucket-4803-1318374180761.jpg


the "crowbar"
photobucket-2884-1318374146005.jpg
 
AU-999 recap

Toby, Nice pics. Very educational for a novice like myself. That unit will sound beautiful when finished.
 
gagelle said:
Toby, Nice pics. Very educational for a novice like myself. That unit will sound beautiful when finished.
Click to expand...

I'm actually a novice myself, But I found that posting this stuff actually makes for a very good notepad for myself.. plus it's helping others in the process :thmbsp:

I've got the part numbers for all the saucers. Now to find replacements..


Resistor # R847: 15 ohm, 1/4 watt.

F-1277 board

Saucer: TR824: 2sa532 (e) Replacement: Onsemi MJE340


I'm also going to change out all the output transistors, as they don't match. Three are Hitachi's..which are original, and one is a toshiba.

Hitachi # 2SC898 replacement: Onsemi MJ15003 OR MJ21194G
 
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Been there done that, lots of help from other forum members.

Linky

Maybe there should be sub forums with the different models for repair?:scratch2:
 
tobyj17 said:
I'm actually a novice myself, But I found that posting this stuff actually makes for a very good notepad for myself.. plus it's helping others in the process :thmbsp:

I've got the part numbers for all the saucers. Now to find replacements..

F-1159 boards (two of them)

TR811: 2sc875 (e)
TR813: 2sa532 (e)
TR807: 8002-1 (b,c) Replacement: Onsemi MJE340
TR805: 8002-1 (b,c) Replacement: Onsemi MJE340

Resistor # R847: 15 ohm, 1/4 watt.

F-1277 board

Saucer: TR824: 2sa532 (e)


I'm also going to change out all the output transistors, as they don't match. Three are Hitachi's..which are original, and one is a toshiba.

Hitachi # 2SC898 replacement: Onsemi MJ15003
Click to expand...

TR813 should be a flying saucer 9002, if its not you can still use and MJE350
Note the pinout is ECB with the writing facing you for those T0-126 transistors...
The TO-92 transistors will be different again, EBC
The little black ones, which are the X-495, you can use 2N5087G, but you could also use ZTX790A, or the BC327.25 look good too, higher gain and higher transition frequency........I thought the 5087's might have been a bit low on gain, but I have used them and they seem to work well.....

Use metal film resistors too....

You need to make sure you get the pins in the right holes for the transistors.
The silk screening on those boards is correct, so you could download the datasheets (for the new transistors) just to make sure you have it right when you put the new transistors in.
Triple checking is good. Magic smoke is bad....:yes:

Let us know how its going......Im sure you will anyway....
 
AH HA.....I can see the TR813 looks like a flying saucer from your picture.
Just use the MJE350, it will be fine.
 
I took another look at what would be the 9002's (TR813) ...They're black with a brown ring, instead of a white ring. Of course there's no printing that's visible on them..
 
kevzep said:
TR813 should be a flying saucer 9002, if its not you can still use and MJE350
Note the pinout is ECB with the writing facing you for those T0-126 transistors...
The TO-92 transistors will be different again, EBC
The little black ones, which are the X-495, you can use 2N5087G, but you could also use ZTX790A, or the BC327.25 look good too, higher gain and higher transition frequency........I thought the 5087's might have been a bit low on gain, but I have used them and they seem to work well.....

Use metal film resistors too....

You need to make sure you get the pins in the right holes for the transistors.
The silk screening on those boards is correct, so you could download the datasheets (for the new transistors) just to make sure you have it right when you put the new transistors in.
Triple checking is good. Magic smoke is bad....:yes:

Let us know how its going......Im sure you will anyway....
Click to expand...

It'll be slow and steady, as I will be triple checking. I can't recap a big G in a single night :D

Do you think I should replace the little ones.. or leave them alone?
 
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tobyj17 said:
It'll be slow and steady, as I will be triple checking. I can't recap a big G in a single night :D

Do you think I should replace the little ones.. or leave them alone?
Click to expand...

The X-495 ? Yep, I would while you are in there.
 
tobyj17 said:
Mouser and Digikey packages showed up today... Project should be underway soon :banana:
Click to expand...

Ah yes the package turning up is a good thing alright!! I like those packages.....
Excellent..... Time to warm the soldering iron up!
 
Well.. between fixing the old lady's car, work, and working on the house for winter, I managed to get one of the driver boards done. Replaced all the transistors and caps.. and the burnt resistor.
Pics:
photobucket-2407-1320198442325.jpg


photobucket-4085-1320198472115.jpg


photobucket-2457-1320198586056.jpg
 
Thanks guys!

It takes me a bit longer than everyone else to do this kind of stuff.. I find myself staring at the data sheets and pinouts and checking my work two-three times before I move onto the next piece. Not so much with caps, but definitely with transistors.

And believe it or not.. those pictures are off of my phone..It does a great job with things like this!
 
tobyj17 said:
Thanks guys!

It takes me a bit longer than everyone else to do this kind of stuff..
Click to expand...

Maybe, but don't count on it...

tobyj17 said:
I find myself staring at the data sheets and pinouts and checking my work two-three times before I move onto the next piece.
Click to expand...

A wise approach I'd say. Kinda' like the advice for carpenters "measure twice, cut once".

I'll have to tuck this thread away for inspiration once I get the courage to dig deeper into the 999 I just unearthed yesterday....

Nice work :thmbsp:
 
tobyj17 said:
Thanks guys!

It takes me a bit longer than everyone else to do this kind of stuff.. I find myself staring at the data sheets and pinouts and checking my work two-three times before I move onto the next piece. Not so much with caps, but definitely with transistors.

And believe it or not.. those pictures are off of my phone..It does a great job with things like this!
Click to expand...

Do it once, do it right........:thmbsp:

Take your time........Thats the way to get it done......
 
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