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Original Large Advent cabinets with Dayton drivers

leesonic

leesonic

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After having no luck selling my Original Large Advent cabinets that had been cut for some different tweeters, I finally got around to making new baffles to mount the Dayton drivers I bought. I couldn't resist bringing them in from the garage and taking some pictures. The baffles are just lying in the cabs, with pencil measurements still all over them, and the drivers aren't screwed down. I still need to cut holes for the reflex ports, make a sub-enclosure for the midrange driver, and figure out what kind of crossover I'm going to use.

Drivers are :

Dayton Audio DA270-8 10" Aluminum Cone Woofer
Dayton Audio DA115-8 4" Aluminum Cone Woofer (used as midrange)
Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter

Lee.

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They look real nice!

I'm using that same Dayton 4" aluminum cone driver in a DIY mini-monitor, crossed over to a planar tweeter at 5Khz.

Steve
 
This comment isn't actually meant to be as snarky as it's going to sound - "upgrade" is sort of a misnomer, isn't it? This is more "building a new loudspeaker in old OLA boxes", isn't it? Not really on any particular vector path (up, down, or otherwise) from an OLA, I'd opine.

Looks nice; let us know how they sound when they're finished. What's the tuning for the cabinet going to be? XO points and orders?
Did you choose metal cones for any particular reason?
 
mhardy6647 said:
This comment isn't actually meant to be as snarky as it's going to sound - "upgrade" is sort of a misnomer, isn't it? This is more "building a new loudspeaker in old OLA boxes", isn't it? Not really on any particular vector path (up, down, or otherwise) from an OLA, I'd opine.
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I know, but "building a new loudspeaker in old OLA boxes" would have been a long title. I hate to see nice cabinets get thrown out, I guess I'm a HiFi hoarder.

mhardy6647 said:
Looks nice; let us know how they sound when they're finished. What's the tuning for the cabinet going to be? XO points and orders?
Did you choose metal cones for any particular reason?
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The cabinet is slightly smaller than the optimum for that driver. I plan on tuning it to give a slight hump in the bass a la JBL L100s. That said, it's only a 1.5dB hump, so might not even be detectable.

As for crossovers, I was going to plump for some generics, but someone over at Parts Express tech talk sent me some specs, so I might use them.

I've always like the look of metal coned speakers, but never owned any. The woofers and tweeters came up half price on the Parts Express Classifieds section, so I jumped on them.

Lee.
 
Lee, how are you going to determine port size and depth? Do you engineer the crossover prior to port dimensions, or is it the other way around?
 
About that crossover…metal drivers act almost as pure pistons within their operating range but typically have nasty break up resonances outside of it on the high end. That must be dealt with in the crossover; usually requiring higher order (steeper) filters. This being a 3-way alleviates that concern in a big way. The cost/ performance value of the aluminum Dayton drivers is very high. I think your remake will look stunning without a grill in place. I can’t wait to see how this turn out.
You can use WINISD to determine port size, with a 10" woofer I think you come out OK. You might find it works great in a sealed cabinet of that size.
 
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leesonic said:
I know, but "building a new loudspeaker in old OLA boxes" would have been a long title. I hate to see nice cabinets get thrown out, I guess I'm a HiFi hoarder.



The cabinet is slightly smaller than the optimum for that driver. I plan on tuning it to give a slight hump in the bass a la JBL L100s. That said, it's only a 1.5dB hump, so might not even be detectable.

As for crossovers, I was going to plump for some generics, but someone over at Parts Express tech talk sent me some specs, so I might use them.

I've always like the look of metal coned speakers, but never owned any. The woofers and tweeters came up half price on the Parts Express Classifieds section, so I jumped on them.

Lee.
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ahhh. Great answers. Thanks!
Keep us posted.
 
leesonic said:
...figure out what kind of crossover I'm going to use.
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What you've got there should be the beginning of some very good sounding speakers. Those Dayton DA drivers sound way nicer than the price suggests. With a proper crossover, I would expect that this would in fact be an upgrade.

ANY off the shelf XO is going to be a crap shoot. It may sound pretty good, or it might suck rocks. Regardless it won't be optimized, and the off the shelf XOs never take baffle step compensation into account much less the many other variables. For example, you'll need at least 3dB of baffle step compensation on the woofer to mate to the mid since the woofer is about 3dB more sensitive according to the spec sheets, and you man want more depending on room placement/ listening preferences.There are lots of guys at the PE board who would enjoy helping you develop a good XO for you drivers in that box. It may need some tweaking since speaker design is very room dependent, but the result will be well worth the effort.

Tell them what you've got and what you want to get out of it, and you'll get a lot of good help over there. You'll want to consider room size, shape, and placement as well. Not sure what the inside of those cabinets look like, but I'd recommend that you ask about bracing, damping, and alignment as well.

I apologize if you already know this, but these things are frequently under appreciated, and while the result may be good, it can be great with a just little extra care.

I think this looks like a very promising relatively cheap set up. Best of luck!

Zach
 
Zach C. said:
There are lots of guys at the PE board who would enjoy helping you develop a good XO for you drivers in that box.
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Like I said, someone over on the PE board has given me some specs of a crossover to use, so I'll be going with that.

Lee.
 
Haven't done anything with these Advents for a while, so I thought it was about time I got around to finishing projects that I've started.

Here are some pictures of the cabinets, before (right) and after (left) sanding down using progressively finer grades of sandpaper and then applying Tung oil. You can see the difference in the shine by the reflection of the cardboard mailer they are standing on. The light spot you can see on the left side is some wood filler where I made a repair. I figured I'd wait until all the Tung oiling was done, as the wood gets darker with each application.

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Not sure what crossovers I'll use. Someone was kind enough to model a crossover for me over on the Tech Talk forum on Part Express, but it uses an 8mH inductor for the woofer. I re-foamed a lot of speakers last year, all different makes and models, at not once did I see a crossover with that much copper in series with the woofer. Some, like my AR18S and AR94S have woofers that use no crossover at all. Maybe I'll start with something simple.

Lee.
 
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Here are before and after pics of the baffles. Left of picture is after rubbing down with 220, 400, 800 and then steel wool, with an application of Tung oil after each.

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