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Realistic STA 2100, 2100D, 2300 power switch

RS Steve

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For those who own one of these receivers and have had issues with the power switch you know how there is not an easy fix to it. The cleaning works for a while but most times it acts up again because of the design.

I have a bad switch to donate if there is someone willing to try and find a way to fix them with other newer parts. I think it is the relay section of the switch that acts up so maybe there is a way to bypass the original and install a seperate one. :dunno:

I am not a electronics type person so I have no clue, but it would be nice to save some of these receivers from the trash. If someone with the knowledge wanted to find a way to design a better switch with off the shelf parts combined with the original switch I know some of us would be very happy.

Anyone with thoughts on this please chime in, maybe it can be done.

I am including some pictures of the switch. :thmbsp:
 

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If someone with the knowledge wanted to find a way to design a better switch with off the shelf parts combined with the original switch I know some of us would be very happy.

I have a fix for this switch. I took the contacts out of another switch (digikeyEG1018-ND) and put them in this switch. Got it to work nicely. Yours is pretty toast though. But I have parts.
What happens is the contacts in the main part of the switch arc and get burnt. The secondary part of the switch will be fine.

I was thinking of posting a thread describing my fix for this part. I have pictures.

Very common part.
 
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How difficult is it to replace the 2100 switch with the one posted on ebay? Mine has a bad power switch as well so this might be the cure....provided my electrical skills are up to par :D

The new switch has to be soldered to a small circuit board and the button part from the old switch gets reused. I had my tech do it, it was too small for my ability.
 
How difficult is it to replace the 2100 switch with the one posted on ebay? Mine has a bad power switch as well so this might be the cure....provided my electrical skills are up to par :D

Not really too bad at all. I removed the bottom panel to get to the switch. The hardest part is to remove the circuit board that is soldered to the switch. This is the LED that sits in the middle of the power switch. The power wire is two wires that connect to the switch.

I used a solder station along with soldering braid wire to remove the soldier. Before attempting, I would practice unsoldering and soldering on a scrap circuit board until you get the hang of it. Take your time and take note on where the power wires are connected.
 
Does anyone know if this is the same type switch in the STA-95? I am begining to think that I have the same type issues with the one in mine. Thanks!
 
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