Introducing the RCMCS (my DIY RCM)

I've been using dent-pullers and a shop-vac for WAY too long and decided to finally build my own RCM. I'm too much of a cheapskate to pay VPI prices and the Spin-Clean just doesn't look that appealing (to me). I spent a lot of time at Ace Hardware scoping out parts and formulating a plan and was lucky enough to have an AK friend (bryana) build me a box to use. I pulled some feet off a junker Pioneer and used the dustcover, platter and mats from a busted MCS turntable. The bulk of the cost was in the VPI wand assembly, then drill bits, taps, etc. Vinyl veneer (from Parts Express), nuts, bolts and aluminum rods were a minimal cost. Another AK'er (can't remember the name, sorry) sent me a link for a 12V gear-drive motor from ebay. I already had a wall-wart and shop-vac. I'd guesstimate that the final cost was around $125. Enough yacking, on to the build.............


The vacuum assembly was pretty easy. A 1.25" joint extension set can easily be cut to size (to fit through the side where the vacuum will attach) and a 1.25" slip nut has a nice foam washer on the inside the provides a snug fit with the vacuum adapter. Bilge pump hose is the perfect length and fits the VPI assembly and joint extension like a glove. Hose clamps ensure nothing will come loose. I have a large shop vac with the mega-hose that I can use for this (and other chores in the garage and house). That's easily cured with a hose-adapter to get it down to size.

Vacuum assembly parts (and post-assembly)





I was lucky enough to have a junk MCS table that I could salvage for parts. The platter was perfect for this project. I used a 0.25" carriage bolt for the "spindle" (I cut the end off with a hacksaw). Some loctite ensured the nuts stayed firmly in place. the Main spindle hole is too large so I had to use some washers on either side (cemented in with liquid nails) to sandwich between the nuts. The nice thing about using a carriage bolt is that the top is threaded and easily accepts a screw-on handle for clamping. I had to create a coupler between the motor and the spindle and couldn't find the right size online (and couldn't stomach the prices of the ones I did find). Some aluminum tubing, nuts, and a tap set took care of that. It's not pretty but it's quite functional.

Turntable assembly parts




Shaft Coupler




I'll skip the boring parts about the platter and vacuum layouts as that will depend on the box and personal preference but I will say that the platter mat makes a great (and sturdy) template for alignment.

Platter Layout




For the bottom of the box I borrowed some feet from a Pioneer table. The weren't quite the right size for the bolts I used so a had to do a little bit of surgery with a drill

Feet




The wiring from the wall-wart to motor was pretty straightforward. I have no use for a two-way motor so a simple SPST switch was perfect for the job. The RatShack wall-wart that I'm using has adjustable voltage (9V to 12V makes a big difference in platter rotation speed) and reversable tip polarity (if I really care to make the motor spin one way or another). A DC power jack connects the wall-wart to switch quite well and mini o-rings on the "hot" wire connect to the SPST switch.

Wiring Parts




Not much to say about the wiring other than I used shrink-wrap to each connection. I left myself some slack in the wires in case I ever have to switch parts out. I also added wire clamps to keep things in place.

I had to create an aluminum mount to attach the motor to. There was no mounting template with the motor so I had to measure carefully, photoshop things, then print, cutout and test-fit. I had some scrap walnut I used to give a 2" spacing between the motor and platter (and to mount the motor mount to). I ended up cutting a few holes in the mount so that I could tightly fit the coupler to the spindle and motor.

Internal Assembly





The box has a strip of (maple?) around the lip that I coated with some wipe-on polyurethane. The rest of the box was wrapped in some vinyl veneer available from PartsExpress. Even with spills cleanup is a breeze. Finally, I took the dustcover off the MCS for times when I'm not using the machine. The pics don't show it but, opposite the side of the vacuum attachment is the DC power jack for the wall-wart. You can see in the pics above that I had to do a poor-man's counter-sink to get the DC jack and power switch to mount (as the box was a bit too thick). I took a pair of cheap cabinet handles and mounted those as well and this beast is quite portable now.

Final Assembly





Not pictured is an electrical wall-plate with foam lining I use between the clamp and the LP for label protection. I also have the old platter mat from the MCS that I use as well (one mat for each side of the LP). I fired it up yesterday and cleaned a dozen LPs. This works really, really well and is much faster than my old shop-vac with velvet technique. BIG thanks to bryana for making this box for me (even though it took him a year to get it done ). I have zero carpentry skills and the box was the part that was holding me back the most. I guesstimated the size based on the MCS table, adding a bit of room for the internals and, luckily, it worked out just fine. It's not perfect but it was cheap and it's effective.

this looks awesome! I have been thinking about building my own RCM and this is the perfect inspiration , thanks!

what is the finish on the box? is it paint or did you cover it with something?

very,very nice, congrats!

Great job,Joel:thmbsp:

Regards,
Sachin

Great build, and lots of good photos!

I added it to the sticky thread: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=318672

jeremyjustic said:

this looks awesome! I have been thinking about building my own RCM and this is the perfect inspiration , thanks!

what is the finish on the box? is it paint or did you cover it with something?

very,very nice, congrats!

Click to expand...

The covering is just a black textured vinyl laminate available from Parts Express (no affiliation):

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=261-618

I doubt that I even used a quarter of the roll so I'll have spare in case it starts peeling, etc.

Thanks for the comments. If I can build this, ANYONE can do this. The only downside is that I didn't listen to records for a few weeks since I spent my free time in the garage.

Great job!

Your pictures do a good job of explaining the construction details.

JBL GUY said:

Great job!

Your pictures do a good job of explaining the construction details.

Click to expand...

I thought I had pics of mounting the motor and creating the walnut "standoff" but I can't seem to find them. By the time I put this thread together it was all in one piece and I didn't want to disassemble anything. If there are any questions on the shaft coupler, motor mount or anything else I'd be glad to answer.

This just wonderful. You did a great job with the pictures and explaination. This will be my next project, thank you:yes::thmbsp::yes:. Preston

One last note. To attach the joint extension, I took off the original screw cap then slathered liquid nails on the shaft and stuck it in the hole (I tried writing that sentence several times and that was the least dirty version I could come up with, honest). On the inside I took the original cap and slathered on JB Weld then fit it over the tube so that it "stuck" to the inside of the box (and glued to the pipe). That pipe is SNUG now and I don't forsee it moving.

looks awesome....
thanks for taking the time and sharing all this.

$125 and a few hours of your time....!
Who needs VPI...
congratulations!

dodog,

That's a very nice RCM you built there. The vinyl gives it a very professional, commercial looking appearance. As you all ready knew cleaner records sound better, so the next step is to make it easier to clean them. Happy record cleaning. Way to go!

Fantastic work, my friend. Looks stunning.

Superb. Really like the VPI gear application. Beats PVC water pipe, for sure.

Nice groove cleaner.
You make it look easy!

bryana said:

Nice groove cleaner.
You make it look easy!

Click to expand...

You did the hard part and made the box. Drilling holes and mounting motors is easy. The maple trim was a nice (and unexpected) touch.

Dodog, very nicely done indeed!
And a huge thank you for posting the many pics, and explanations of build. Without a doubt, this thread will prove highly valuable for many forumites for a long time to come.

A very smart move placing this one in the sticky for others to quickly access.

Admittedly, I took the lazier, and more costly route some years ago with the acquisition of the VPI 16.5. None the less, you'll no doubt agree, these design types are a fantastic aid to getting better fidelity from our records.

It's sort of doubtful I can offer much advice to your expertise, but by the looks of it, it appears you have implemented the entire VPI made Vacuum Wand Assembly. Wise move I feel.

If you're not aware, the Vaccum Wand Assembly is tuneable, both in height adjustment, and the cant of the slot itself in relation to the record's surface.

The Circular Collar with Allen Set Screw on the Wand Assembly is adjustable, and locakable for permanent setting per given Platter Height. Harry Weisfield himself once described this simply, that one simply sets a record on Platter, remove the Coil Spring, replace Wand Assembly on its Base, and adjust the Locking collar until the Wand itself just touches the record's surface. Tighten Allen Set Screw, replace Helical Coil Spring, and you are done.

Wand Slot Cant can be slightly tuned a degree or two, and it is said it should not be perfectly perpendicular to the record's surface. It should ever so slightly be canted towards the oncoming direction of rotation of record. You'll see evidence of this, that you will notice one Velvet Protective Strip picking up a little more dust-debris than the other.

This will help aid efficient fluid pickup of the Wand.

The last, and this is an uncertainty, and that is the level of suction you are achieving, and this is an unknown by myself? I would imagine that too much of a good thing (too much bar vacuum) may be more a detriment, than a benefit. Dependent on the size-power of vacuum motor you are using, this can perhaps be fine tuned by some sort of bleed off slot in the vacuum line?

The last thought I have, is the possibility of a smooth flat neoprene Mat. You might find a smooth flat rubber Mat easier to clean, and keep clean.

Keep in mind, the RCM is only 1/2 the equation. The better the quality of the cleaners, and rinses you use, this as well will highly influence the final results.


Thanks again! Mark

markd51 said:

The last, and this is an uncertainty, and that is the level of suction you are achieving, and this is an unknown by myself? I would imagine that too much of a good thing (too much bar vacuum) may be more a detriment, than a benefit. Dependent on the size-power of vacuum motor you are using, this can perhaps be fine tuned by some sort of bleed off slot in the vacuum line?
Thanks again! Mark

Click to expand...

I don't think so. At least not with the VPI tube system. I was worried about the same thing with my DIY RCM that uses a 2HP peak or 10 amp vacmotor. I thought I might have to bleed off some suction as well. In use though the VPI tube rides on the thicker record rim which keeps the tube from damaging the record surface. That's wear the microfiber strip wears out 1st. How much suction do I have? Enough that if I turn the vacuum on before the platter motor it stalls the platter. The platter motor is fairly torquey, it came out of an ice cream maker. I've cleaned about 1,000 records on mine and it hasn't damaged a record yet because of too much suction.

elcoholic said:

I don't think so. At least not with the VPI tube system. I was worried about the same thing with my DIY RCM that uses a 2HP peak or 10 amp vacmotor. I thought I might have to bleed off some suction as well. In use though the VPI tube rides on the thicker record rim which keeps the tube from damaging the record surface. That's wear the microfiber strip wears out 1st. How much suction do I have? Enough that if I turn the vacuum on before the platter motor it stalls the platter. The platter motor is fairly torquey, it came out of an ice cream maker. I've cleaned about 1,000 records on mine and it hasn't damaged a record yet because of too much suction.

Click to expand...

It was one reason why I said it was an unknown of what the original poster would use, or what others may use in such an installation, could be a variable in the results of fluid removal?

Usually, most seem to implement the small cannister wet-dry vacs, that usually don't cost more than $25-$30 brand new, commonly something like a 1/2hp, or 1hp Vac.

I would assume that no one would implement some huge 10-16 gallon shop vac for such a purpose, unless that was all they had for the time being, and wished to use it?

I would assume such huge powerful commercial shop vacs would not be needed to remove fluids from the record's surface, and that's the reason why I mentioned "too much of a good thing could possibly be detrimental"?

I know with the VPI machines, that due to suction force, the wand will be drawn down upon the record at all points on the record's surface, that the wand will flex, permitting even suction across the record's surface, from lead in grooves to label area.

I know VPI claims better fluid removal with their top of the line flagship Typhoon Model due to a different model vac motor used, but there appears to be little to no deficiency with the fluid removal with the lesser 16.5, and the less powerful vac motor it uses.

If it didn't, there'd no doubt be a problem with fluid pickup if there wasn't some slight flexure inherit. Mark

markd51 said:

I would assume that no one would implement some huge 10-16 gallon shop vac for such a purpose, unless that was all they had for the time being, and wished to use it?

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Well, you know what they say about assumptions? I AM using a behemoth (12 gallon maybe? It has wheels.) shop vac just because I already have one and it might as well get some use. I thought about purchasing a smaller, more portable shop vac but I'm content for now. Suction is not an issue and the motor still doesn't break a sweat or heat up.

markd51 said:

It was one reason why I said it was an unknown of what the original poster would use, or what others may use in such an installation, could be a variable in the results of fluid removal?

Usually, most seem to implement the small cannister wet-dry vacs, that usually don't cost more than $25-$30 brand new, commonly something like a 1/2hp, or 1hp Vac.

I would assume that no one would implement some huge 10-16 gallon shop vac for such a purpose, unless that was all they had for the time being, and wished to use it?

I would assume such huge powerful commercial shop vacs would not be needed to remove fluids from the record's surface, and that's the reason why I mentioned "too much of a good thing could possibly be detrimental"?

I know with the VPI machines, that due to suction force, the wand will be drawn down upon the record at all points on the record's surface, that the wand will flex, permitting even suction across the record's surface, from lead in grooves to label area.

I know VPI claims better fluid removal with their top of the line flagship Typhoon Model due to a different model vac motor used, but there appears to be little to no deficiency with the fluid removal with the lesser 16.5, and the less powerful vac motor it uses.

If it didn't, there'd no doubt be a problem with fluid pickup if there wasn't some slight flexure inherit. Mark

Click to expand...

I agree that most use the small wet/dry vacs and that they are probably sufficient especially when used with the efficient VPI wand system. Part of my RCM build was using supplies on-hand. I had a 10 gal Shop Vac just taking up space in the garage rafters. I'm certain that it is overkill, but I wanted to have a self contained RCM for the convenience of needing no set-up to clean just one record. I'm also pretty sure that I'm bleeding off some suction where the down tube enters the tank. The other variable is the speed of the record platter. They use a 16 RPM gear motor. Faster rotation will require more passes to remove the fluid. I wondering about the flexibilty in the VPI wand. Where'd you hear that? I'm spanning mine across 2 pencils and I have to push pretty hard to get enough flex to see it. There's a little give where it joins the holder, but not so much that it will conform to the record. On the contrary mine will lift the record and make it conform to the wand.