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Simple DIY "superchunk' style corner absorber/bass trap

tomlinmgt

Lunatic Member
Here's a simple overview of the construction of some "superchunk" style broadband corner absorber/bass traps I built. I used Owens Corning 703 rigid fiberglass panels (2'x4'x2") but other materials such as compressed rockwool (Roxul) panels could be used as well. A 2'x4' panel cut in half and then each half cut into four triangles yields eight 24"x17"x17" pieces which will be roughly the dimensions of the finished trap. One certainly isn't restricted to this size but it makes for the most efficient use of a 2'x4' of panel while still yielding a trap of sufficient size to be effective.

I elected to keep my traps around 3' tall as I have obstructions (diffusors) in my front corners and couldn't go floor to ceiling. Even if you intend to build floor to ceiling traps I'd recommend building two and stacking instead of one tall one. They are easier to handle this way and with my construction method more rigid.

The frame is simply 3/4" plywood for the base and cap and 1"x2" vertical stringers and sheetrock corner protectors (thin galvanized steel) for the stringer that will butt into the corner. The thinness of the metal corner protector allows placement of the trap in the corner with minimal standoff.

The pictures pretty much explain everything. All connecton points were pre-drilled (to prevent splitting) and screwed together. The assembly has lots of twist to it when standing alone but as you start to populate the frame with the fiberglass/rockwool it will become increasingly rigid. Once you get to the last half dozen or so pieces you can unscrew where the corner protector attaches to the plywood cap and move the corner protector out of the way and gently lift up the cap just enough to slide in your last pieces of fiberglass. Screw the corner protector back in and cover just the face or the entire assembly if you wish. I used speaker grill cloth material but certainly burlap and muslin cloth are nice breathable fabric options as well. Also, if you cover the the superchunks with a fabric that approximates or is the same color as the walls they'll blend right in and practically disappear. WAF issue solved.

I'd estimate one 17"x17"x24"x4' tall corner trap to cost about $30 to build if you can get a 2'x4'x2" panel for around $8...which is what I paid here in the DFW area.

Oh, and yes, they definitely improved LF response in my room. They weren't a silver bullet for the LF dropout issue I had in my listening spot, but they certainly made a big difference.
 

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Great solution. Please post pics of how they look in your room all complete. I have a decent system but a flawed room and now starting to look at some treatment solutions like this. Thanks for the inspiration and clear instructions on what you did.
 
Nice work! Ive thought of doing something similar to your frame & stuffing it with unfaced FG insulation, but your idea would probably be more effective. The stuffed version would likely look like a pillow, not as WAF for sure.
 
Great solution. Please post pics of how they look in your room all complete. I have a decent system but a flawed room and now starting to look at some treatment solutions like this. Thanks for the inspiration and clear instructions on what you did.

I added some more pics to the OP showing the superchunk absorber after covering and installation. Also I noted that you can cover the chunks in a fabric that is the same color as the walls and they'd blend right in. Should make WAF less of an issue. :thmbsp:
 
What are the dimensions of the ply wood triangles? How effective would it be to use a flat panel and place it over the corner vs.your triangular trap that fits into the corner?
 
What are the dimensions of the ply wood triangles? How effective would it be to use a flat panel and place it over the corner vs.your triangular trap that fits into the corner?

The plywood is cut to roughly the same dimensions as the rigid fiberglass. 24" x 17" x 17". I don't think that a thin panel will be as effective as one of these full depth traps, but will likely help some.
 
Thanks.Would one of the above traps be enough per corner,or would stacking two or more be necessary?

There's no way to know this in advance - too dependant on differing room parameters and differing perceptions of sound quality, but floor to ceiling is likely to be best. My suggestion is to build one per corner and then decide if you want to build more.
 
That look pretty easy to do and it's not permanent, i hear that wrapping the outside with a PVC sheet before the final outside cover helps the LF
 
Traps don't necessarily smooth the sub signals so you might be sitting in a null. Multiple subs smooths the signal
 
I believe that putting sheet plastic wrap before the fabric gives some reflection of the highs while absorbing the lows.
 
Traps don't necessarily smooth the sub signals so you might be sitting in a null.
If they're large enough and well placed, they can certainly smooth the bottom three octaves. I use a forest of large DIY tube traps to great success. It took lots of experimentation with both speaker and trap placement to get the best results. I'm including a third octave graph of the results.

traps0613.jpg


u1_response.jpg


I use dual subs in the HT system where I don't have the luxury of using traps. There I use some carefully placed parametric EQ based attenuation to smoothen the response. Even then, there are nulls at 40 and 80 hz.
 
Thanks for the link.The tubes are made of compressed fiberglass without wrapping it around a tube form...It looks to be much easier to build the large tube traps vs the above super chunk type above.What size tube wrap did you use and where did you source it?
 
Thanks for the link.The tubes are made of compressed fiberglass without wrapping it around a tube form...It looks to be much easier to build the large tube traps vs the above super chunk type above.What size tube wrap did you use and where did you source it?
Those in the pic are 18" and there are also four 12" traps in the back of the room. I sourced them by following the Knauf website for dealers in my area.
 
A friend of mine says don't spend a lot of money on fancy corner bass traps.
Foam carpet underlay rolls stood in the corners do the job.
Dressed up with a bit of fabric of choice
 
I appreciate the good advice here.What is the biggest difference that you noticed after you put the tubes in place?

Dave
 
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