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SL1600mk2 Gear Repair

H

hatman

Active Member
Small gear on Gear Assembly #97 – SFUP-172-51A has a crack on the radius, a common failing. Extends from center hole to edge.
AudioKarma.org member Hemi Ram (Rich) posted that he found a replacement gear in NY and made the repair.
Rich cut the old crumbling gear off and pressed the new gear onto the metal shaft. The plastic (Acetal) gear only needs the 7mm hub projection reduced to about half that size. Thanks Rich for all your help!!
I live in neighboring state (NJ), ordered a few and was charged $3.95 shipping. Here is the company info, I received the order in two days;

SDP/SI (Stock Drive Products/ Sterling Instrument), (1-800-819-8900/ 516-328-3300 ext 491), 2010 Jericho Turnpike, Box 5416, New Hyde Park, NY 11042-5416. Web site; https://sdp-si.com/web/html/direct.htm
Enter Part # in search window, click on part #, then click 'Catalog Page' for gears & specs)

Part# A1M2MYZ05032; Module 0.5, 32 Teeth, 20degree Pressure Angle, Acetal /No Insert Spur Gear. $1.36 each.

In its mounted position, I removed two screws removed for clearance. I pressed / wedged my old gear off using a few odd tools. Unless you have experience doing it without a small gear press, I suggest you cut it off with a large diagonal wire cutter. I used a wooden dowel to hold the gear and a Band-saw to cut off less than half of the 7mm Hub projection. I used a large pair of needle nose or duck billed pliers, (a little lube) to press gear onto splined shaft. On the backside of this gear is the rubber/neoprene drive roller that moves the tone arm laterally. Roller can deteriorate, additionally the roller and adjacent surface must be free of grease. Rich noted that #60 neoprene will work. I've included some Pics of my repair.

For the sake of Engine Search effectiveness, I will also post today my repair of the Pitch Control LEDs on my SL1600mk2. IC427 was the offender and CD4011BEE4 (Mouser Elec. @ .50¢) was the cure.
 

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Thanks for this and your other post re: the pitch control LED. I'll definitely bookmark them for future reterence.

John
 
Your are welcome John. As a novice I have received a lot of help from AK members, so like to pass along that good will.

The cracked gear seems to be a common failure, while the Pitch LED problem is a little rare. Hemi Ram (Rich) got me going with his gear fix so I pulled that non-working SL1600mk2 onto the bench.

With the gear repaired, the LED issue was tackled next. On my search for the fix I read a few posts (from all over) that were looking for help. Over a few months, I patiently threw some parts at it and found the offender. Hopefully these fixes will save a few SL1600mk2 & SL1700mk2 from the bone yard.
 
Just was taking a stroll through AK and came apon your posts. Good job with the table and nice to see another great old turntable spinning vinyl again instead of weighing down the trash in your barrel.

:thmbsp:
 
I have the same issue. Lucky for me, Hemi Ram's office is next to mine. I just handed him my table and he gave me back the arm to re-wire and plinth to repaint. :)








Now I just got to get my lazy butt to finish the paint.
 
Sorry, remove hyphen & spaces and the gear will show up on a search.
A1M2MYZ05032

As a side note; if you want to go searching for gears at this site, they have a metric and inch Stock Selection option.
 
hatman said:
Small gear on Gear Assembly #97 – SFUP-172-51A has a crack on the radius, a common failing. Extends from center hole to edge.
AudioKarma.org member Hemi Ram (Rich) posted that he found a replacement gear in NY and made the repair.
Rich cut the old crumbling gear off and pressed the new gear onto the metal shaft. The plastic (Acetal) gear only needs the 7mm hub projection reduced to about half that size. Thanks Rich for all your help!!
I live in neighboring state (NJ), ordered a few and was charged $3.95 shipping. Here is the company info, I received the order in two days;

SDP/SI (Stock Drive Products/ Sterling Instrument), (1-800-819-8900/ 516-328-3300 ext 491), 2010 Jericho Turnpike, Box 5416, New Hyde Park, NY 11042-5416. Web site; https://sdp-si.com/web/html/direct.htm

Part# A1M2MYZ05032; Module 0.5, 32 Teeth, 20degree Pressure Angle, Acetal /No Insert Spur Gear. $1.36 each.

In its mounted position, I removed two screws removed for clearance. I pressed / wedged my old gear off using a few odd tools. Unless you have experience doing it without a small gear press, I suggest you cut it off with a large diagonal wire cutter. I used a wooden dowel to hold the gear and a Band-saw to cut off less than half of the 7mm Hub projection. I used a large pair of needle nose or duck billed pliers, (a little lube) to press gear onto splined shaft. On the backside of this gear is the rubber/neoprene drive roller that moves the tone arm laterally. Roller can deteriorate, additionally the roller and adjacent surface must be free of grease. Rich noted that #60 neoprene will work. I've included some Pics of my repair.

For the sake of Engine Search effectiveness, I will also post today my repair of the Pitch Control LEDs on my SL1600mk2. IC427 was the offender and CD4011BEE4 (Mouser Elec. @ .50¢) was the cure.
Click to expand...


@Hatman
Thanks for the thread, pics and link to SDP/PI and @Boreas for pointing me to this thread.

I have a question based on the link, after you enter the part # A1M2MYZ05032 in the search field.

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Catalog#

My question pertains to the "Hub Style" option, which one should I opt for?
 
That part number in the search when I tried, came up w/a fully configured gear, presumably the one hatman used. As soon as you choose something different from the hub option drop down, the part number disappears and all fields went blank. Suggests only one configuration for the part number hatman gives?

The with 'hub/no setscrew' seems right as the one in his pics were w/o said setscrew.
 
Hello. I would like to order the gear part, but the link in the thread is just leading me to the front page.

I have a problem with my Technics SL-1600 MK2 after service at the local technical. He told me that the gear part got hairlines but he don't tell me which one it was.

The problem on the table is that it does not lower the tone arm at the same start position overtime. Sometime it's lows the arm in the middle of the start position on at record. Other times it will lows the arm close to the outside of the record and nearly drops the tone arm of the record. I have adjusted the start position to the right place and after that it helped a lot but there's is still 2 millimetres difference of the start position from one side of a record to the other and from one record to another.

That is not so good I think.

Could it be a gear problem? The cuing belt is replaced with a new one and everything else seems to work perfectly.

Please give me some help here
 
Allan. A said:
Hello. I would like to order the gear part, but the link in the thread is just leading me to the front page.

I have a problem with my Technics SL-1600 MK2 after service at the local technical. He told me that the gear part got hairlines but he don't tell me which one it was.

The problem on the table is that it does not lower the tone arm at the same start position overtime. Sometime it's lows the arm in the middle of the start position on at record. Other times it will lows the arm close to the outside of the record and nearly drops the tone arm of the record. I have adjusted the start position to the right place and after that it helped a lot but there's is still 2 millimetres difference of the start position from one side of a record to the other and from one record to another.

That is not so good I think.

Could it be a gear problem? The cuing belt is replaced with a new one and everything else seems to work perfectly.

Please give me some help here
Click to expand...

Here's the gear. Since yours is cracked and may be slipping on its shaft it should probably be replaced. But your problem may lie elsewhere. It could be a problem with the size detection circuitry or the LEDs that determine the drop and return point. Change the gear first. It's cheap and easy and it might solve the problem. If it doesn't, get back to us.

John

http://shop.sdp-si.com/catalog/product/?id=A_1M_2MYZ05032
 
boreas said:
Here's the gear. Since yours is cracked and may be slipping on its shaft it should probably be replaced. But your problem may lie elsewhere. It could be a problem with the size detection circuitry or the LEDs that determine the drop and return point. Change the gear first. It's cheap and easy and it might solve the problem. If it doesn't, get back to us.

John

http://shop.sdp-si.com/catalog/product/?id=A_1M_2MYZ05032
Click to expand...

Hello John

I have just ordered the gear wheel (I'm from Denmark so I'm sorry about my translating of the special words) I thought when the price wasn't absurd of this gear, then it could be that bad.

When the arm returns from end playback, it shakes a very little bit on the way back. But there is nothing when you push start and the arm is getting into the record. It just varies 1-2 millimetres in the start position. I don't know if the right cuing belt is mounted but I think it is because the company who serviced the player is very competent and good
 
The size of the belt isn't all that critical. I've even used an elastic hair band and a plumber's O-ring when I couldn't get the correct one quickly. The fact that the arm returns on its own suggests that the belt is doing it's job in at least that function but it could be that the cracks in the gear allow it to work in one direction but not the other. I guess we'll find out when you get the new gear installed. The jerky arm motion could be caused by slippage of the gear.

John
 
boreas said:
The size of the belt isn't all that critical. I've even used an elastic hair band and a plumber's O-ring when I couldn't get the correct one quickly. The fact that the arm returns on its own suggests that the belt is doing it's job in at least that function but it could be that the cracks in the gear allow it to work in one direction but not the other. I guess we'll find out when you get the new gear installed. The jerky arm motion could be caused by slippage of the gear.

John
Click to expand...

I really hope you're right :) I love this turntable and really want the automatic to work correctly. It's an old table afterwards but I don't think any new table sound as good as this :)

Is there a video who shows how to replace the gear?

I'm also worried about the big gear wheel. If this one cracks there's nothing left to do
 
No, no video that I know of but the pictures in post #1 give a pretty clear idea of what has to be done. As far as the other gear is concerned, the company that supplies the small driven gear probable supplies a suitable replacement for the drive gear. It's just a matter of counting teeth, measuring thicknesses and diameters, that sort of thing. Biut it's too soon to worry about that. First things first.

John
 
boreas said:
No, no video that I know of but the pictures in post #1 give a pretty clear idea of what has to be done. As far as the other gear is concerned, the company that supplies the small driven gear probable supplies a suitable replacement for the drive gear. It's just a matter of counting teeth, measuring thicknesses and diameters, that sort of thing. Biut it's too soon to worry about that. First things first.

John
Click to expand...

Well I hope you're right John. I was thinking of something to be adjusted to the automatic inside the table to handle the auto start position? Maybe a switch ore something witch has to be cleaned also. But I don't know. I don't hope that the tax will take the package with the gear wheel
 
The start position is adjustable but it's a little weird and difficult to figure out (but easy to do once you have. If you haven't already, visit the vinylengine site and register (free), go to the "Library" page and find Technics. When you're on the Technics page of the Library, go to SL-1600 under Direct Drive Turntables and look for the download for mkII M/MC service manual (improved scan)". Download the service manual by clicking on the blue hypertext, also free, and then study the section covering tonearm adjustment on page 15, (not page 8).

John
 
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