• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

How to repair ALPS push button power switch

Raccoon1400

Raccoon1400

Super Member
I thought I would post this fix for the alps m-19 push button switch.
This switch is prone to arcing. It is found in many different units.
Pictures here:
https://goo.gl/photos/QAioNRDb6QJvFDxy5

This switch was from the realistic STA-2200. Only one pole of the switch was in use, so my first plan was to move the wires to the other side. But I discovered this had already been done.

I grab this switch, digikey part number EG1018-ND, which is a common replacement for the marantz power switch. I figured I could take the contacts from the new part and use them in the burnt switch. This was successful. Here's how:

First picture shows the switch. Picture 2 shows the rebuild switch, and the parts switch.
The first thing is to take apart both switches. First chip off the red shellac from the old switch and clean off all solder. Then you can gently slide a flathead in between the red cover and the body and slowly pry it apart. Gently, the cover is easy to damage. No need to disassemble the other part with the brown cover. The new switch comes apart the same way but you don't need to worry about damaging the cover.

Take the contacts out of the old switch, but leave the middle one in place. It will not be damaged, and will fit better than the new one. The contacts on the new rocker are bit closer together, but you can compensate by putting the contact on an angle and bending it as shown in the picture. I also needed to widen the slot in the cover a little bit too, I used an xacto knife.

For the rocker, it needs to be bent. The concave side is the side with the contacts on it. You want it to be very slightly convex, for optimal fit.

I made sure the contacts were a good distance apart in the off position, and closed tight in the on position. All is good.

You can now put it back together. It goes back together pretty much the same way it came apart, but there is no longer a place for those brown rollers. When it is back together you need a few drops of shellac, or glue to hold it together and stop the contacts from moving.

The switch is found in the following units:
Luxman R-1070, R-1120
Realistic STA-2100, STA-2200, STA-2300
more...
(please help expand list, will update this post)

This is my first post as a subscriber.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Brilliant! Thanks! PM Billfort and ask to have this put in the DIY repair reference so anyone can find it.
 
You can add NAD 7080 in the list! :)

Also, can't we use the whole EG1018-ND switch to replace the burnt one? Please don't judge me I'm pretty new to this world! :P
 
Now if someone would show me how to clean that infernal Alps pot on my SX-1250. Noisy thing has all but turned me off this particular restored receiver of mine.
 
Oerets said:
IIRC Mouser has a switch, 611-NE1839EE that will work.
With only the mounting bracket needing to be moved to the new switch.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up on that switch part number, they are not always easily found with there being so many different categories.
 
Oerets said:
I try and keep a few handy.

View attachment 1440743 View attachment 1440744
Click to expand...
@Raccoon1400 Do you think it could be a good replacement for the switch?

Also, I read somewhere that the ALPS switch are not faulty, but the issue is coming from the low quality spark suppressor used on them:
restorer-john said:
Nothing wrong with the ALPS switch, just the cheap cap NAD put over the switch contacts to prevent arcing that died soon after it was installed. Don't blame ALPS, their switches are unbelieveably reliable if used correctly.
Click to expand...

leesonic said:
The problem wasn't the switches (which were ALPs I think, generally known for good quality), it was the cheap capacitors they put across them.
Click to expand...

Could you recommend a spark supressor replacement for mine?

IMG_20190301_215521.jpg IMG_20190301_215505.jpg

Please note the two poles under the yellow wire are linked together the same way those below are (white wire). Apparently this is for the following:
Leestereo said:
The original switch has two sections: the section closer to the push button is rated for a lower current and the larger rear section is the high current section. The "TV-5" indicates that the high current section is rated at 5A (but since the 2 poles are bridged, it is effectively a 10A switch). You can replace with a single section 2-pole TV-5 switch, just match the mounting specs: should be 20mm between the mounting holes, tapped for M3 screws.
Click to expand...
 
JayPare said:
@Raccoon1400 Do you think it could be a good replacement for the switch?

Also, I read somewhere that the ALPS switch are not faulty, but the issue is coming from the low quality spark suppressor used on them:




Could you recommend a spark suppressor replacement for mine?

View attachment 1440864 View attachment 1440865

Please note the two poles under the yellow wire are linked together the same way those below are (white wire). Apparently this is for the following:
Click to expand...



I use this switch on NAD gear with the old suppressor.
Need to remove the mounting bracket and then fit onto the new switch.
The contacts get pitted on the old ones.
Never heard of the suppressor being a weak link.
 
JayPare said:
@Raccoon1400 Do you think it could be a good replacement for the switch?

Also, I read somewhere that the ALPS switch are not faulty, but the issue is coming from the low quality spark suppressor used on them:

Could you recommend a spark supressor replacement for mine?

Please note the two poles under the yellow wire are linked together the same way those below are (white wire). Apparently this is for the following:
Click to expand...
That switch could work, can't say for sure from just pictures.

Once you replace or rebuild the switch, do this triac mod. You then don't need the suppressor cap, and the switch will have an easy life.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...orth-5-and-an-hour-or-so-of-your-time.504673/
 
Last edited:
I finally got around to doing the switch contact replacement as per Raccoon1400's recommendations on my Luxman R-1070. All is good now with no crackling and a solid on/off. Thanks for the tips and photos!
 
Raccoon1400 said:
I thought I would post this fix for the alps m-19 push button switch.
This switch is prone to arcing. It is found in many different units.
Pictures here:
https://goo.gl/photos/QAioNRDb6QJvFDxy5

This switch was from the realistic STA-2200. Only one pole of the switch was in use, so my first plan was to move the wires to the other side. But I discovered this had already been done.

I grab this switch, digikey part number EG1018-ND, which is a common replacement for the marantz power switch. I figured I could take the contacts from the new part and use them in the burnt switch. This was successful. Here's how:

First picture shows the switch. Picture 2 shows the rebuild switch, and the parts switch.
The first thing is to take apart both switches. First chip off the red shellac from the old switch and clean off all solder. Then you can gently slide a flathead in between the red cover and the body and slowly pry it apart. Gently, the cover is easy to damage. No need to disassemble the other part with the brown cover. The new switch comes apart the same way but you don't need to worry about damaging the cover.

Take the contacts out of the old switch, but leave the middle one in place. It will not be damaged, and will fit better than the new one. The contacts on the new rocker are bit closer together, but you can compensate by putting the contact on an angle and bending it as shown in the picture. I also needed to widen the slot in the cover a little bit too, I used an xacto knife.

For the rocker, it needs to be bent. The concave side is the side with the contacts on it. You want it to be very slightly convex, for optimal fit.

I made sure the contacts were a good distance apart in the off position, and closed tight in the on position. All is good.

You can now put it back together. It goes back together pretty much the same way it came apart, but there is no longer a place for those brown rollers. When it is back together you need a few drops of shellac, or glue to hold it together and stop the contacts from moving.

The switch is found in the following units:
Luxman R-1070, R-1120
Realistic STA-2100, STA-2200, STA-2300
more...
(please help expand list, will update this post)

This is my first post as a subscriber.
Click to expand...

That's why I bought a handful of these switches "new old stock" a few years ago. And I always use both sets of contacts on the bigger receivers/amps so the load is spread out over both of them. It wasn't one of ALPS's best designs. Some Sansui use these too like the 3900Z, 4900Z, etc. I've used small zip-ties to hold them together with a dab of glue in the corners to make it easy for "future" servicing if needed.
 
JayPare said:
Also, can't we use the whole EG1018-ND switch to replace the burnt one? Please don't judge me I'm pretty new to this world! :p
Click to expand...

The problem with that is the original switch has a second lower current stage to it (see pictures). This stage is used for things like shutting off the relay immediately on powerdown (though that isn't the only way to do that).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom