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Need help with a Sony PS-X600

sol7

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I picked up a Sony PS-X600 a couple weeks ago. I saw it sitting on a table at a flea market. No cover or headshell, so I originally passed on it. I had time to kill so I went back to check it out. I picked it up and it was heavy and knew I had to have it. The guy had the headshell elsewhere, so that was a plus. No cover though.

Anyways, I got it home and did a quick power on test. It lit up and spun, so I shut it down for a later day. I threw a cart on it the other day and nothing. No lights or spinning of the platter.

I dug into it today to see if I could find the problem. Well, I found the problem and it's the Start/Stop switch.

Now, my problem is finding a replacement switch. Anybody have an idea of where I can find one of these switches? The service manual calls it a keyboard switch. I've checked Digikey and Mouser and googled for it and I'm not finding anything resembling it.

I removed the switch from the PCB, hoping I could revive it. Looks to be sealed and I would have to destroy it to get it opened. The TT works if use a jumper to momentary make a connection in place of the switch.

If anyone has a lead on where to find a switch, I'm all hears and eyes.

Thanks

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You'll love this table once up and running.
When I first tried playing mine I noticed I had to push rather firmly and steadfastly on the start button to engage play, shortly thereafter just a bit firmly:)
 
Dimensions and contact layout would be the place to start, but I don't see that being discussed.
 
The switches are probably Sony-specific, so you won’t find them, except in some Sony equipment that was around in the early 1980’s, when the PS-X600 was new, or in some Sony parts stores.

S401 to S406 are all the same part numbers in the service manual, so you should be able to swap the repeat and start/stop switch – just de-solder them and swap them over. They are just SPST momentary switches that switch earth through to the relevant section of the micro-processor IC when they are pushed, and as the repeat switch isn’t essential, you can probably do without it, and just get up and push the start/stop switch if you want to repeat a side!

Use something like solder-wick (de-soldering braid) to wick up the solder quickly when de-soldering the switches – it’s very cheap at electronics parts shops. Some people prefer cheap solder suckers, but they cost a bit more, and I wasn't fond of the ones I tried, compared to the expensive (and very good) professional vacuum de-soldering stations a company I worked for owned, so I always use solder wick at home.
 
I never thought about "stealing" the repeat switch. Even though I probably wont use the repeat function, I'd still like to keep it fully functional.

I found this listed at Radio Shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020763

I need to take some measurements and see if it will work. It is surface mount, but maybe I can make it work.

I use this for desoldering and it works great: http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...62731&filterName=Type&filterValue=Desoldering

Since the Radio Shack website is somewhat defunct, here is the part # for the switches I used: 275-0004 2.5mm High Tact Switch qty 4
 
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I never thought about "stealing" the repeat switch. Even though I probably wont use the repeat function, I'd still like to keep it fully functional.

I found this listed at Radio Shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020763

I need to take some measurements and see if it will work. It is surface mount, but maybe I can make it work.

If that switch is a similar size and fits the PCB, then it should work OK. You may be able to use PCB pins or wires through the holes and solder to them, seeing that it’s surface mount and not designed for through hole mounting.


If it works for you, then that's the main thing.:thmbsp:
 
Dimensions and contact layout would be the place to start, but I don't see that being discussed.

They measure about .421 inches square and about .109 inches thick. The widthxdepth is not so much a problem. It's the thickness that matters most. Too thick and the button will have constant pressure on the switch (i.e. always closed).

I scrounged around the house and tore apart 2 VCRs and at least one printer. They all had tactile switches, which I was hoping would work. Unfortunately, they were too thick.

I checked the ones Radio Shack has (link in post above) and they are thinner (I think) than the originals. Since they are surface mount I'll have to do as mention previously and solder some leftover lead clippings into the holes and solder the switch to them. Since the switch is thinner (I hope), I might be able to use the leads to space it to the right height. If all works out as planned I get some pics posted.

Salvaged switch on left:

sonyswitch-04.jpg


sonyswitch-05.jpg

Too tall
sonyswitch-03.jpg
 
Well, I picked up the switches from Radio Shack today and made my attempt at replacing the bad switch.

The new switch is a hair thinner then the original. So the plan was to solder the switch on to some lead laying across the board. I realized after soldering those in, that I could have just ran straight jumpers from hole to hole.

sonyswitch-06.jpg


Soldered the switch to the leads, which was a pain. Soldering SMT devices is a pain.

sonyswitch-07.jpg

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Only to realize it was too tall. So I placed the switch flat on the board and shortened the leads.

sonyswitch-09.jpg

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Tested it out and the switch fits and works great.

Unfortunately, now there seems to be an intermittent connection problem with one of the connectors on the main board and the tonearm moves up and down when trying to zero balance it. That might be related to the connection problem.
 
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Yeah, I think there's more solid state than turntable in this thing! And I thought my PL-570 was bad...
 
Yeah, I think there's more solid state than turntable in this thing! And I thought my PL-570 was bad...
I believe I'll have to remind myself to turn off the unit after use.
Again mine is quiet and seems precise, a beautiful thing.
 
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