Marantz 2215B re lamp

I know some of you will well know how to relamp a marantz, but I thought I'd help some that don't. I have included some small tips that may be of some use. Please don't get too bored!

Well this evening I thought I'd better put the face back onto my somewhat bleak and blank looking 2215B. This involved re lamping the old girl to shine some life back into her. I was lucky enough to get the proper lamp kit from a seller on a well known auction site for some reasonable money. It is always worth searching for the correct kit to avoid possible electrical damage and a meltdown of the plastic parts.:yes:

I will start by saying that the 2215B is by far the easiest 22xx receiver I have ever had the pleasure of re lamping.

So without further a do I shall begin.

This is the before shot,
Like I said lifeless looking. ity:



So I began by making the receiver is turned off & unplugged from the power and taking out the four screws, two on either side.



I find it easiest, once the 4x screws removed to put my thumbs on top of the cover and pull the sides apart using my fingers and carefully lifting the cover off straight up. Was difficult to do using one hand and pressing the camera, but I think this shows the idea.



Set the cover to one side away from the work area so as not to damage it. Once the cover is off you should have something that looks exactly like this.



This is the contents of the kit I bought, the blue leaded lamp is for the tuning needle, the white leaded for the red 'stereo' lamp and the fuse lamps are for the tuning dial and the signal meter.



Ill start with the tuning dial lamps, Loosen the two screws on top of the white plastic mount. These screws are on slots so full removal is not required, however undo them enough so that the washer is not in the way for re-installation. Lean the mount/bracket back to gain access to all the fuse lamps, be very careful of that dial string, the metal on top of the bracket is sharp.



I have a plastic flat small mixing spatula I use to pry out the lamps, but I would have thought a lolly stick would be as effective. I twisted this to pop one end of the lamp out. I deliberately avoided using a flat bladed screwdriver so I didn't brake the lamp and get glass in the receiver.



Install & test, keeping fingers away from the internals, the results could be shocking! Turn off and unplug the receiver before carrying on work. Reinstall the lamp holder, take care when doing the screws. Make sure they aren't too tight, the plastic is old and brittle.



So next I tackled the tuning needle lamp as was in this area. Move the tuning needle to the middle of the dial to gain as much slack as possible. Then lift the needle out buy twisting the housing as if it were hinged on the rear (string end), and it comes free quite easily.



Next be very careful with a small flat bladed screwdriver to
a/ not brake the housing and
b/ not to stab your fingers

Tease the screwdriver underneath the barb clip and it should un-clip very easily.



Lift off the cover and pry out the metal bulb holder, I found it easier to do this by putting the housing back onto the slider track and attacking it from behind (no comments please) where the small dob of glue is, some have more glue than others but mine had hardly any.

So after removing the bulb holder gently push the bulb with your spatula to remove the lamp from the holder, I didn't have any glue on this but I have seen some that have.



Next prepare the new lamp by cutting the leads quite short, and cut the old lamp off close to the bulb as close as possable to retain as much of the origional lead as possable. I then trimmed in a step. One lead long and one short so when it is soldered the joints aren't right nest to one another to avoid a bump and if the headshrink fails they are unlikely to short out.



Unfortunatly when pulling off the excess sleave I pulled it all off, no matter heatshrink will sort that out. Soldered up.



Heatshrink on, bulb in holder and lid clipped on. I left the heatshrink long so the lead doesn't foal on the string any more.



Test, switch off and unplug.



Next up is the 'stereo' lamp, a little tight under the tuning string. Remove the two screws on top and the lamp housing falls out towards the rear.



Push the old lamp out of the rubber housing with your spatula or lolly stick dont pull the leads, they may break inside, don't push the lamp with your finger it may break and slice you. I have done some with glue on the rear of this lamp so watch out for that.



Now the first problem with my new lamp was it was alot smaller than the origional, so I had to pack it out with a few layers of heatshrink. I have some heatshrink with glue inside so it doesn't slip off and it is alot thicker too.







And refitted this into the rubber housing



The old leads weren't very generous with their slack so I left some on the new lamp to give me some playing room. I stepped the leads again as before.Make sure when you do this to mind the tuning string with the soldering iron, I relocated the housing to the other side of the string to do this.

Solder and heat shrink. Having done this I should have removed the bottom cover to make the join out of sight from the top. There is also better access from the underside to do this (no tuning string at risk).



Reinstall and test, I have an issue here no voltage to the lamp. As it turns out the old lamp was actually ok.

Switch off and unplug. Next up is the signal meter. It may well be advised to do this lamp first and leaving the string off whist doing the 'stereo' lamp to make access a little easier. Be aware the tuning string will be slackened to do this. I slackened the screw on top of the meter, it is on a slot, full removal not required. Relocate the string out of the way so as not to get in a muddle. Pop the old lamp out and refit.





Test and put the lid back on.

Looks loads better, shame about my stereo lamp.

Now with regard to that, I have no feed at J806 & J807 from the power supply, do I have a bit of a problem there?

Thanks for this very helpful thread. I will be relamping my 2275b. Will it be more difficult than the process you illustrated for you 2215b???

Now with regard to that, I have no feed at J806 & J807 from the power supply, do I have a bit of a problem there?



If your unit is european which I suspect it is, j806 and 807 windings are fused- check your fuses.

EDIT- yup I see the fuse block beside the transformer.

bk thanks for the suggestion, my information was not entirely accurate, sorry. I have 7.8v at J807 nothing at J806.

I have checked all the fuses on both fuse blocks (on top and underneath), all are fine. I have nothing past diode H808. When testing either way I initially get a 0.5 second reading then it cuts off. Is this the fault, or should I pull it from the board to test properly? :scratch2:

gregj, I tend to find the 22xxb models easier to work on. I haven't personally lifted the cover of a 2275b, sorry.

edit, removed from board now. One way I get nothing the other I have 0.578 ohm. I only get this reading when connecting the red lead to the - and the black lead to + side of the diode, when using the 'diode test' function. If I don't use the diode test function I get nothing either way. I guess this is the problem. :scratch2: It is a W06B diode. Can I substitute this for a 1N4005, if this looks to be the problem. The resistor next in line to the circuit is measuring in spec?

J806 and 807 are AC feeds from the transformer, if you measure with your leads connected to 806 and 807 on AC you should get 8v. You can't measure it the way you are doing it. What's it not doing exatly? The diode sounds like it's working however it has nothing to do with 806 and 807. You should be able to measure the DC by connecting to ground and J814, it's after the diode, should read 10.7V dc or so.

Thanks for the reply bk. I do have 7.4v ac at J806 & 7. Also 10.4v at J814. The problem I have is there is nothing to the stereo lamp. I was trying to trace it back. Yes the bulb itself is fine, in fact the old one I swapped out was too. When I switch to aux, phono or tune in on fm stereo, I have no lamp lit. Looking at the ps it seemed the diode fed the lamp, that's why I expected that was the problem. :scratch2:

Then all is well in the world. Couple of things to adjust here then IF all is well in the circuit. Start by turning this pot clockwise and report back. If the stereo beacon turns on and the needle is center on the tuning dial all is well. If not I'll tell you how to adjust the tuning needle so it's centered.

But it isn't just the tuning. It is when the input on aux or phono is selected too. Do I still need to do this?

Ya- stereo lamp goes out when selecting phono and aux.

It never comes on at all. I have never seen it on since having owned it. I just assumed it was because the lamps needed replacing, see the first picture on this thread. Looks a little sorry for itself. :tears:

Either the mpx chip is pooched or you need to adjust the fm circuit. Try adjusting what I showed you in the pic while tuned to fm. Does the needle center on a station? Unlike other marantz units fm stereo only lights up while tuning fm stereo.

AWESOME...

got one that needs this....!

THANKS for the write up and great pictures!

Hey, yes. I have a stereo light! I am tuned to fm, needle centred. I turned the pot a smidge of a tiny bit, almost a touch of the screwdriver. I still have nothing on aux or phono though.

Avatar of one of my fave movies. Fish hooked by a sprat!

hbrocks said:

AWESOME...

got one that needs this....!

THANKS for the write up and great pictures!

Click to expand...

No probs, I'm glad it is of use to you and good luck.

Pingu- read what I wrote- the stereo light only works on FM- NOT IN AUX OR PHONO lol.

bktheking said:

Avatar of one of my fave movies. Fish hooked by a sprat!

Click to expand...

Really, thats nice..... :scratch2: What has that got to do with the price of bread?

It's a scene in the movie when the kid fishhooks the bald guy and top hat man makes a comment. I'm talking about the gangs of new york avitar.