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Deoxit SX-1010 controls; help please

MadFerret

MadFerret

Member
Good morning, all-knowning forum,
I'm trying to clean my scratchy SX-1010 potentiometers, but more importantly the switches, which are causing the left and right channels to cut out when using the Tape Mode switches. I am having to wiggle the switches around to get audio to come out both sides.

I have taken my receiver apart; the wooden cover, bottom plates, and faceplate are removed. It's very difficult to get to the pots/switches in this stereo (see images). My question is: do I need to remove this aluminum faceplate to access the controls so I can spray them with Deoxit? It looks like the switches are literally attached to this aluminum panel, so I am hesitant to remove it (plus there are a lot of screws holding it in place, so you know it's important). Is this the only way I'm going to get my controls clean? Or can I just spray de-oxit head on into the little crevaces at the front of the switch? I found this forum (http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=101515) discussing the issue from 2007; one guy says it needs to be removed, the other says that's not necessary. The pots/switches don't appear to be accessible with the aluminum plate affixed. Will they be accessible if I remove it? I just need to know where to spray this stuff, help please! :D

controls1.jpg


controls2.jpg
 
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you need to unscrew those two boards on the bottom to gain access to the pot and switches...

the screws are located on the front of the unit , small phillips head screws.
 
the twelve brass phillips heads in the front will loosen up those two boards to gain access
 

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tsd71 said:
you need to unscrew those two boards on the bottom to gain access to the pot and switches...

the screws are located on the front of the unit , small phillips head screws.
Click to expand...

That part is close enough to be ok.

tsd71 said:
the twelve brass phillips heads in the front will loosen up those two boards to gain access
Click to expand...

But this part? NO.....

Look at exploded drawing #2 in the service manual - there are SIX screws to pull that assembly.

to the left of the circled area are two screws, then to the right of the circled area are one, one and then two, see them?
they hold the board/module in. the screws you circled are part of the module.

The OTHER module/board is held in by six screws, two two and two.
 
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My bad I just did my 1010 of course with your help. Should have known better. Actually I meant 12 screws in all for both boards
 
That's what i was thinking too. All 12 for both boards as he's gonna need to pull both.

MadFerret. Remove the smaller board 1st. Then the larger board. Loosen the wire's from the loom holders to get slack in the wiring. DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY WIRING. Be careful and handle the wiring with care. Some can be very brittle at the board connections and break off. Only move the boards as needed to gain access to the pots and switches. No excessive movement.

When you move the boards back, VISUALLY VERIFY each wire to both boards, and make sure the end is connected. If not Solder it on the pin 1st, removing the old wire wrap from the pin 1before you solder the end. Otherwise leave the wirewrap alone.

Larry
 
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yes, and brush some flux on the pin before heating it. It's got 30 years of tarnish to get through.
 
Ok, now what?!

Thank you for your prompt responses. I have managed to remove the small circuit board, which has the switches on it that I am having problems with (staticey, left and right channels play soft, etc). The switches are each housed in a protective metal case... this thing is built like a freakin tank! I can't find any holes in the cases that I can spray de-oxit through. I am looking for suggesstions. This stereo is one of my most valuable possessions; so I'm looking for the least risky approach here. Thanks again.

controls3.jpg


controls4.jpg


controls5.jpg
 
Big-ass 'holes' in the sides of those toggle switches. You can see the white plastic slide that houses the foil contact pieces. Look inside while moving the lever FCS...you'll see it moving. Flip the toggle to the 'down' position, and spray D5 in front of the white plastic block so it runs down into the switch, then work the switch a few dozen time. Repeat.
 
tsd71 said:
Spray into the front of those levers, work each lever at least 50 times.
Click to expand...

That means get the straw IN through the slot to the BOTTOM of the switch where it is mounted to the pc board, THAT's where the contacts are. Right below that square /rectangular moving plastic block.

example, THESE are the contacts:
(note: this is NOT a deoxit cleaning in the after picture, it is a mtf special restoration cleaning where the switch is removed, disas$embled, cleaned, reas$embled and rein$talled)
attachment.php
 
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it is best to take apart switches and clean properly . deoxit will leave corrosion in there and it will not last so long if you aren't using the switch on a regular basis .
 
Thanks for the help! I managed to get the stereo back together, and it's working and sounding great.. no problems with the switches any more! I took tsd's advice and I sprayed the de-oxit right in the front of the switches and worked them good. :smoke:
 
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