While I’m waiting for my bad Edcor output transformer to be replaced, I thought I would spend some time re-tuning one of my other push-pull amps. I built this amp several years ago. The description of this amp is the following:
The parameters I varied for the final tuning were the feedback capacitor (C1) that is strapped across the feedback resistor, and the step network, which is a series combination of a resistor (R2) and a capacitor (C2) that are strapped across the plate resistor of the 12BH7. I did not vary the amount of feedback. That was previously set (by me) at 14 dB.
The basic procedure was to iterate values of C1, C2, and R2 until I got the desired shape of a 10 KHz square wave when scoped on a purely resistive 8 ohm speaker load. First iteration was to start with a set of values that I thought would get me pretty close to the square wave shape I wanted, then look at the reproduced square wave and adjust the passive components until I get the shape I want. When I get the shape I want, check high end frequency response. I want a flat response out to at least 20 KHz.
I found it quite easy to hone in on values that worked by using a 50K linear pot for R2, and once settling on a square wave shape that suited, and verifying that the frequency response of the amplifier was within bounds (not less than 20KHz), I then substituted the nearest E24 value resistor in place of the pot.
For this exercise I wanted to compare two sets of tuning parameters, I’ll call them the A set and the B set, and I wanted to be as unbiased as possible, in the end, picking either the A set or the B set, which ever sounded the best to me.
The A set consisted of passive component values that give a nicely cornered square wave with no overshoot, no ringing, and flat square wave tops. The passive component values selected for the A set were: C1=1300 pF, C2=330 pF, R2=7.5K. High end frequency response is flat just barely to 20 KHz. A 10 KHz square wave at 1 watt gives a shape as depicted here:

The B set of tuning parameters allow for a small amount of overshoot on the initial rise, then no more than one cycle of well damped ringing before flattening out. The passive component values selected for the B set were: C1=1000 pF, C2=220 pF, R2=10K. High end frequency response is flat to 32 KHz. A 10 KHz square wave at 1 watt gives a shape is depicted here:

I then let both sets of passive component values burn in (each) for 24 hours before doing any serious listening. I then evaluated the A set and the B set for another day each using a variety of program material.
In summary, both sets of tuning parameters sound “good.” But I can easily distinguish the differences. The A set (flat square wave) makes the amp sound a bit ragged, or choppy maybe at the highest frequencies. Cymbals, hi hats, snare drums, etc., had just a bit more edge, glare, and hardness to them. The amp just didn’t sound as smooth as with the B set of parameters.
The B set of tuning parameters (slight overshoot square wave), had a noticeably smoother high end. Cymbals, hi hats, snare drums, etc., had a more delicate, feathery, and extended sound. This difference was not exactly subtle. The amp was definitely easier to listen to and was not nearly as fatiguing after a few hours of listening using the B set of parameters as opposed to the A set.
So…that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. All I can say for sure is the slightly bumpy square wave sounded significantly better in this particular amp in my listening room. I cannot say that this is the end-all, be-all way to tune every generic push-pull feedback amp out there. But in my case, it was clearly easy to know which sounds better to me, in my listening room.
In one sense I am surprised by these results since both sets of tuning values produced results flat to 20 KHz, and therefore should sound identical to the limits of human hearing. But they did not sound identical, the B set (giving the slight overshoot square wave) sounding significantly better, and the distinctions between the A set and the B set were clearly obvious to my hearing.
I have my theories as to why the B set of tuning parameters sounded easily better. They have to do more with double-E theory as to what’s happening in the frequency spectrum with feedback amplifiers.
But, I will give nod to this probably being an unfair test across the board...there may be some sort of interaction with the acoustics in my room that favored the B set of parameters. On my next amp build, I will do a similar exercise, and pick the parameters that work best for that amplifier also. Who knows, I may pick the flat square wave for that amp as sounding better.
-Kevin
- 6V6 output tubes, UL connected at 40% taps, fixed bias.
- 6SN7 phase splitter/driver.
- 12BH7 first stage, direct coupled to the phase splitter.
- Hammond 1650F output transformers. (7600 ohms:8 ohms)
- 5R4 GYS rectifier, C-R-C-L filtering putting 375 VDC on the plates of the output tubes.
- 14 dB of global negative feedback, fed from the 8 ohm tap of the output transformer back to the cathode of the first gain stage.
- The amp puts out about 12 watts per channel into an 8 ohm resistive load.
The parameters I varied for the final tuning were the feedback capacitor (C1) that is strapped across the feedback resistor, and the step network, which is a series combination of a resistor (R2) and a capacitor (C2) that are strapped across the plate resistor of the 12BH7. I did not vary the amount of feedback. That was previously set (by me) at 14 dB.
The basic procedure was to iterate values of C1, C2, and R2 until I got the desired shape of a 10 KHz square wave when scoped on a purely resistive 8 ohm speaker load. First iteration was to start with a set of values that I thought would get me pretty close to the square wave shape I wanted, then look at the reproduced square wave and adjust the passive components until I get the shape I want. When I get the shape I want, check high end frequency response. I want a flat response out to at least 20 KHz.
I found it quite easy to hone in on values that worked by using a 50K linear pot for R2, and once settling on a square wave shape that suited, and verifying that the frequency response of the amplifier was within bounds (not less than 20KHz), I then substituted the nearest E24 value resistor in place of the pot.
For this exercise I wanted to compare two sets of tuning parameters, I’ll call them the A set and the B set, and I wanted to be as unbiased as possible, in the end, picking either the A set or the B set, which ever sounded the best to me.
The A set consisted of passive component values that give a nicely cornered square wave with no overshoot, no ringing, and flat square wave tops. The passive component values selected for the A set were: C1=1300 pF, C2=330 pF, R2=7.5K. High end frequency response is flat just barely to 20 KHz. A 10 KHz square wave at 1 watt gives a shape as depicted here:

The B set of tuning parameters allow for a small amount of overshoot on the initial rise, then no more than one cycle of well damped ringing before flattening out. The passive component values selected for the B set were: C1=1000 pF, C2=220 pF, R2=10K. High end frequency response is flat to 32 KHz. A 10 KHz square wave at 1 watt gives a shape is depicted here:

I then let both sets of passive component values burn in (each) for 24 hours before doing any serious listening. I then evaluated the A set and the B set for another day each using a variety of program material.
In summary, both sets of tuning parameters sound “good.” But I can easily distinguish the differences. The A set (flat square wave) makes the amp sound a bit ragged, or choppy maybe at the highest frequencies. Cymbals, hi hats, snare drums, etc., had just a bit more edge, glare, and hardness to them. The amp just didn’t sound as smooth as with the B set of parameters.
The B set of tuning parameters (slight overshoot square wave), had a noticeably smoother high end. Cymbals, hi hats, snare drums, etc., had a more delicate, feathery, and extended sound. This difference was not exactly subtle. The amp was definitely easier to listen to and was not nearly as fatiguing after a few hours of listening using the B set of parameters as opposed to the A set.
So…that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. All I can say for sure is the slightly bumpy square wave sounded significantly better in this particular amp in my listening room. I cannot say that this is the end-all, be-all way to tune every generic push-pull feedback amp out there. But in my case, it was clearly easy to know which sounds better to me, in my listening room.
In one sense I am surprised by these results since both sets of tuning values produced results flat to 20 KHz, and therefore should sound identical to the limits of human hearing. But they did not sound identical, the B set (giving the slight overshoot square wave) sounding significantly better, and the distinctions between the A set and the B set were clearly obvious to my hearing.
I have my theories as to why the B set of tuning parameters sounded easily better. They have to do more with double-E theory as to what’s happening in the frequency spectrum with feedback amplifiers.
But, I will give nod to this probably being an unfair test across the board...there may be some sort of interaction with the acoustics in my room that favored the B set of parameters. On my next amp build, I will do a similar exercise, and pick the parameters that work best for that amplifier also. Who knows, I may pick the flat square wave for that amp as sounding better.
-Kevin