HPM 60 Crossover

silverchris

Active Member
Could someone post pictures of the hpm crossovers and what version they are? My schemetics from both versions are different then the crossovers I have. Also what part numbers are on the coils?
Mine are
STH-122-0 2.0mh
STH-015 1.5mh
STH-030 0.12mh
hpm600005.jpeg

Thanks,
Silverchris
 

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Silverchris, WOW, you're still alive ! I thought you enlisted and went to Afganistan or sumthin.

Didn't get kicked out of school or anything eh??

Just kidding :D Good to see you posting again. Now, what's happening with those old Series I HPM-60's of yours ?? Last we heard you were buying some new drivers and such.

Here's a pic of the Xover from my Series I (early versions). Hope this helps.
 

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Well my schemetic seems to be wrong for the series 1 of them but the series 2 it seems to be fine. wonder if it was a early production change or something? As for the speakers. I am finaly going to get the woofers refoamd that I bought and put some new vinal on them and one of my grills broke on me so I am going to fix that. I was hoping to recap the crossover and clean up the wiring to make these speakers like new again. :D
 
Also this is what made me ask about the crossovers what are the big green things marked 4.6K100 U-CON 3K100 U-CON. Are they resistors? or caps? or something else?
Thanks for the pics,
Silverchris
PS. Don't turn down the mid level control all the way with the amp on really loud. They start to smoke!
 
The "big green things" are film caps: 4.6 uF/100V with 10% tolerance, and 3.0uF/100V with 10%tolerance. Probably polyester film.
 
would it be a good idea to replace them? If i do I guess it would be with the same type and value right? if not what would you recomend?
 
If you had electrolytics, I would recommend that you change them. The film caps are very likely to be fine; if you want to replace them, use a better film cap of the same capacitance (the voltage rating can be anywhere from 50V to 250V caps) like polypropylene types. You can get AXON and GE polypropylene caps from Madisound at dirt cheap prices. You can also try Parts Express caps.
 
silverchris said:
Well my schemetic seems to be wrong for the series 1 of them but the series 2 it seems to be fine. wonder if it was a early production change or something? As for the speakers. I am finaly going to get the woofers refoamd that I bought and put some new vinal on them and one of my grills broke on me so I am going to fix that. I was hoping to recap the crossover and clean up the wiring to make these speakers like new again. :D

Silverchris,

are your xovers the same as mine?

Why would you change those big greenie caps.....think you smoked em? do the speakers sound bad? Of course if you're running bad woofers you can't tell what the real sound is anyway.
 
Yup they are the same as yours but my schematics are different then it so I am making up my own right now to see the difference between them. Well I figured I had them apart might as well replace anything that can go on me. With the caps I should just find the best qualtity if I replace them? Also does the 4.6K meen 4.6K mf or 4.6mf because I am having trouble finding 4.6K mf ones. well back to making the schematic
 
Thanks. I am almost done my schematic. I will post it and the one in the book to compare against. Also mabey someone could tell me if it looks right or not.
 
Are you just trying to map out your existing Xover, or playing with something new? :scratch2:
 
wow to many post by me in a row. last one here. these would be the kind of cap I would use for the green ones right? Here
also if I cant find a 4.6uF I could use a 4.7 right? and the other little cap that is on there is a electrolyte right? just double checking to be shure I don't buy the wrong thing.
 
The 4.7 would be fine and so are those caps. It's cool to experiment and see how
things change to gain a little knowledge for your self but if any of those drivers are
different in your speakers then the original xover may be the best design unless you
are redesigning the xover to change some of the xover points.

In speaker xovers whenever you see an electrolytic it is best to change it out to a
poly most if not all the time.

And I'm sure you'll wire it right but in your printed xover you have the mid connected
to the negative side for both ends of the driver with no positive connection.
 
Also being real close to the original value should be good enough but if you can't find
some that are close enough, say within .5uf you can paralell them and add their value
to get what you need.

Like a 5.5uf and a 4.3uf in paralell would give you 9.8uf and works just fine, can be very
helpful in keeping the cost down on larger caps to.
 
In Kens original picture I only see 2 caps,3 coils and 1 resistor so I don't know what you are refering to when you ask this.

"and the other little cap that is on there is a electrolyte right?"

As I can't see the one you are asking about but if it is an electrolytic yes you can replace it with a poly.
 
My picture was down so I guess you didn't see it. I attacked it to that post so you should be able to now. but there is a little 0.5 uf cap behind one of the coils. so it should be a good idea to switch that with a poly to? well I am going to fix up my schemetics so they are right. I think I did them alittle late at night.
 
Ok here are the schematics. The first one I made up is how my crossover that came in the speakers look. its part number is swn-121-a. The second one is the one from my service manual I got of ebay for the series one and 2 of the hpm's. this is from the page for the series one. it is listed as the part number being swn-109. I am going to do up the schematic from the series 2 of hpm-60s to. I wonder what these changes where for?
 

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And here is the series 2 from my book with a part number of swn-155. It looks basicaly like my cross over from my speaker with just value changes. So I think tis is like a series 1.5 mabey? also from the look of keggers crossover it seems they changed to electorlytes instead of poly?
 

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