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1060 Amplifier

Anti_Skate

Anti_Skate

Well-Known Member
This followed me home the other day. My first vintage Marantz!!!!



These projects just have a way of finding me.

The power switch is bad, and the whole thing is in need of a total cleanup.

Does anyone have a recap list for this unit? And maybe a Mouser or Digi-key number for the power switch?
 
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I just bought this amp and will be watching this thread with interest.... Hopefully it will be with me by the end of the week...

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
 
good choice

I did my 1060 last year and glad I did.
Sounds great. There are sites with the schematic. I went larger with big caps. The power switch is a constant problem. Years ago I replaced the switch several time before I gave up and use a power strip now. I have had mine for 42 years buying it new along with a pair of JBL L-100's at the same time.
I still have them.
Is your front face plate embossed/engraved?
A big issue for resale. Mine is printed.

Paul
 
Excellent unit and one that responds well to a restoration. I think the best thread on rebuilding this amp is the one by BKtheKing that you should be able to find here on AK. It's detailed and shows where you can/should change the sizing of the capacitors.
 
Power switch can be had from Digi-Key: p/n is EG1018-ND Mouser also sells it, but currently not in stock. A whole lot cheaper than those on the auction site - around $6.
 
hirscwi said:
Power switch can be had from Digi-Key: p/n is EG1018-ND Mouser also sells it, but currently not in stock. A whole lot cheaper than those on the auction site - around $6.
Click to expand...

Is this a direct replacement or is the shaft longer?
 
The faceplate is the painted version, so I've got to be careful getting those stains off. I jumped out the power switch to get it to turn on. I just tested it with a cd player and a set of headphones and everything seems to work just fine. No noisy pots or switches. I connected the preouts to my newly recapped Carver M-500, and WOW, all I can say is WOW.

I've been looking for a preamp to go with the Carver and I think I've found it.
Can't wait to hear what the recap will bring to the table.
 
It's worked without modification on a couple different receivers but it's been a while so I can't remember which ones. If it's too long, it's and easy modification. Plus it's only $3.
captouch said:
Is this a direct replacement or is the shaft longer?
Click to expand...
 
Marantz 1060 Power Switch

Here was my solution to the failed power switch on this unit.
I noticed that the chassis had been punched for 2 different mounting hole spacings for the power switch, 26mm and 20mm.



I have several power switches from old IBM PC/AT power supplies laying around so I decided to use one of those.
They have the 20mm mounting spacing, and are rated at 10amps.



I fit perfectly in the chassis except for the spade connections on the top of the switch.



They would have to be trimmed down to provide a safe distance from the bottom cover.



The next issue was that the button would not stay on the switch. The original
switch has a 4.5mm shaft and the replacement switch has a 3mm shaft.
I could have used masking tape or something to wrap around the shaft to make up the distance, but I wanted to do something else.
So I cut plastic strips from an old cassette case and glued them to the shaft with super glue.
Then after I let it dry for 24hrs I filed it down to fit the button.







Here it is all done. Works like new !!!!



Now to tackle that nasty faceplate.
 
Blue Magic

Wow, That Blue Magic Metal Polish is truly magical. The stains were no match for it. I still have the scratch on the right side but oh well. I consider it a character mark.




On to the Recap.
 
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Gotta love the way that front panel came up! It's amazing when the beauty of that front panel gets a chance to shine again.
Nice work.
 
One Issue After Re-Cap

Well I finished the Re-Cap (using bktheking's recap list), and adjusted the Power Amp section according the the service manual. So far I have one issue. When I turn the unit off it continues to play until the amp becomes unstable and distorts as the voltage drops. The size of the main filter cap was increased to 10000uF from the stock 4700uF. Do i need a bleeder Resistor across this cap so it will drop out quicker? Or is this just the nature of the beast.
 
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Both my 1030 and 1060 do this. I ordered parts for the 1060 today, can't wait to do this one! When I went through the 1030 I used the same value caps as the originals and it still keeps playing after turned off. I just turn the volume down first or turn the source off first.
 
Marantz amps (and receivers) with cap coupled power amp outputs usually have an attenuator connected to the amp outputs through a switch in the headphone jack. If you plug something into the headphone jack, such as a set of phones or even an adapter, it will engage the switch and minimize turn off pops and run on.

Tom

41QiNqdCYhL.jpg
 
catrafter said:
Marantz amps (and receivers) with cap coupled power amp outputs usually have an attenuator connected to the amp outputs through a switch in the headphone jack. If you plug something into the headphone jack, such as a set of phones or even an adapter, it will engage the switch and minimize turn off pops and run on.

Tom

41QiNqdCYhL.jpg
Click to expand...
Yep....That's what I do.....
 
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