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Fluid Damping my SME 3009 Series II (improved)

bobins08

Celebrating Life
I recently did a major overall haul and upgrade of my Thorens TD 160 which is documented here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=586639 .

This included all of the commonly performed damping mods, a Soundsupport arm board for my SME 3009 tone arm, RCA conversion of the SME 3009 connector, new Emotiva X-series phono cables, a platter bearing thrust plate, an OEM belt from Qaudio (finally got 33.33 to actually equal 33.33), and a whole lot of adjusting and tweaking. During this work I installed the SME FD 200 fluid damper tank (also called a trough), but not the damping paddles or the fluid. I wanted to hear the sound of my table with all the above stated work and then hear the affects of the damping kit. The results of the upgrades have been splendid. I spent several weeks growing accustom to the sound of my “new” turntable and then decided to put the fluid damping into use.

I have attached five pictures showing the damper installation.

Picture 1 shows the vial of SME fluid which is specified to be a 200,000 cs viscosity silicone fluid (which is really thick stuff). You can see the medium size grey which is recommended for compliances above 20 cu.

Picture 2 shows the paddle in the collar with the convex side out. The screw will hold it all together on the tone arm.

Picture 3 shows the paddle and collar screwed loosely around the tone arm and ready to be fit into the trough. Sorry for the poor photo.

Picture 4 shows the alignment of the paddle inside the trough. I played a record end to end to verify no interference but really all you need to do is check the lead in groove, the middle, and the end.

Picture 5 shows the set up to drain the fluid from the vial into the trough. I cut the bottom of the vial, taped the vial into place on the trough, unscrewed the cap on the vial, and went to bed for the night. In the morning the vial was empty and the fluid was evenly distributed in the trough.

The sound was significantly improved right from the start. The bass was much more defined and firm. The midrange is greatly improved. The music is much livelier and has a greater 3D effect. I am finding many records in my collection that I thought sounded kind of flat now sound much better. The fluid damper has a greater effect on the sound than all of the other changes I made combined.

I spent several days listening and adjusting. I found the need to slowly remove small amounts of fluid from the trough. While the sound was better than ever I had some trouble tracking records that had small humps and warps. This surprised me because I was able to track these records with no problem before the fluid damper was present. It seems like too much fluid slows the arm down am hurts the tracking. I experimented with anti-skate and continued to remove fluid until the system was optimized. Many thanks go to Steve (aka Ilikevinyl) for his advice and support.

I ended up with fluid level that covers about 75 to 80% of the paddle and the anti skate setting still is a bit of a mystery. Before the fluid damper I was happy with it at 0.5 (consistent for most people using a V15-III w/ Jico SAS). I am currently setting it to 0.25 but not really sure it is needed at all. It seems to be fine with no anti skate at all.

Operation and feel of the tone arm with the fluid in place is different. Movement of the tone arm has a heavier feel, it is best to move the arm slowly. I do not need the cueing lever to start a record, the arm drops in a damped manner due to the paddle being in the fluid.

In summary the FD-200 kit is a fantastic upgrade to the SME 3009 tone arm. It makes it sound much better. They are getting rare and expensive and I recommend them without reservation.

To those of you that have one I would love to hear your findings. What fluid do you use? How much fluid? What anti skate setting works for you? Etc.

Cheers, Bob
 

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Thanks. With that information my question would be, what level gives best tracking and best sound? When I had too much fluid it hurt the ability to track a warp, yet it sounded great. How do you find that sweet spot to optimize tracking AND get the best sound?

Finally, if the damping level is optimal, does the need for anti skate go away?

Just by removing fluid I think I found the point of good tracking and good sound but I cannot say it is optimal.
 
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Thanks. With that information my question would be, what level gives best tracking and best sound? When I had too much fluid it hurt the ability to track a warp, yet it sounded great. How do you find that sweet spot to optimize tracking AND get the best sound?

Finally, if the damping level is optimal, does the need for anti skate go away?

Just by removing fluid I think I found the point of good tracking and good sound but I cannot say it is optimal.

It´s probably so that, if You have removed fluid to the point where the needle suspension can move the arm reasonably good for warps, both tracking and sound can be rather optimal, I think.

If You have the possibility to upload a 3150Hz testfile to luckydog in the thread 'let´s talk some physics' this will be a very good way looking at the damping, among other things. If You want to achieve a certain damping constant it´s a bit more complex.
 
Outstanding job with your upgrades, and thanks for documenting your work. I think your table is one of the classiest ever!
 
Outstanding job with your upgrades, and thanks for documenting your work. I think your table is one of the classiest ever!

Thanks. Upon review of the last pictures it looked dusty so I gave it a thorough dusting and wipe down with a soft cloth.

With the fluid damper kit installed I suspect I am done tweaking it for quite awhile. It is fun table.
 
It´s probably so that, if You have removed fluid to the point where the needle suspension can move the arm reasonably good for warps, both tracking and sound can be rather optimal, I think.

If You have the possibility to upload a 3150Hz testfile to luckydog in the thread 'let´s talk some physics' this will be a very good way looking at the damping, among other things. If You want to achieve a certain damping constant it´s a bit more complex.

Loving the sound and spinning some records that I have not played in a long time. Really finding out that some of the recordings I dismissed as mediocre are better than I ever thought. Must be the culmination of several improvements recently made.

I did find another record that did not track on the lead-in groove. Took out a little more fluid and viola, it tracks through and still sound great.

Set up really requires some trail and error but it is enjoyable dialing it in.

Bob
 
Finally, if the damping level is optimal, does the need for anti skate go away?

I added damping to a different arm and found that the need for anti-skate was reduced, but not completely eliminated.

My results were very similar to your own except for the problem you found when tracking warped records. The only negative I found at all was when tracking significantly off-center records, the tonearm didn't want to move as freely back and forth. In my case the damping is quickly and easily adjusted so I back it out some when I play a record like that.
 
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Great report on your Fluid Damper, Bob! It's always a pleasure to help you out. I knew you would really enjoy the sound much better! I'm also hearing a 3D sound stage with my Fluid Damper. I highly recommend the FD-200 Fluid Damper Kit! The arm comes alive with it installed. Grab them while you can. Like Bob said, prices are really going up on them!
 
Thanks. Steve has been urging me to do this for over a year.

It took months to find this kit. I got it from Alfred at SME Tonearms up in Canada. He had to put the kit together from used spare parts he had in his shop. All the parts are there but no box.

I was contacted by someone in the UK that had one NOS kit in the box but that was after I made the deal with Alfred.

Definitely a game changer for this arm.
 
I too bought myself a minty FD200 in a box! :banana:

The only thing that is missing is the fluid. :(

I have just read on the VE forum that the recommended fluid is the original 200.000 cst fluid...

Is it better only because of the very high viscosity?

Unfortunately it would be too difficult and expensive for me to order the original fluid.

Locally I can buy some 60.000 cst silicone fluid.


In the same thread it was said that the best results are obtained with the medium sized paddle only halfway immersed in the 200.000 cst fluid...

Can I get the same result if I fully immerse the paddle in the 60.000 cst fluid?
...And if this is not enough, use the largest paddle?

Or there is some unique quality to the original SME fluid, other than just the higher viscosity?


.
 
Do you have any local hobby shops that sell R/C (radio control) cars? They should be able to supply silicone "diff oil" with higher viscosities. At least to 120k (120,000 cst). Maybe higher.
 
I too bought myself a minty FD200 in a box! :banana:

The only thing that is missing is the fluid. :(

I have just read on the VE forum that the recommended fluid is the original 200.000 cst fluid...

Is it better only because of the very high viscosity?

Unfortunately it would be too difficult and expensive for me to order the original fluid.

Locally I can buy some 60.000 cst silicone fluid.


In the same thread it was said that the best results are obtained with the medium sized paddle only halfway immersed in the 200.000 cst fluid...

Can I get the same result if I fully immerse the paddle in the 60.000 cst fluid?
...And if this is not enough, use the largest paddle?

Or there is some unique quality to the original SME fluid, other than just the higher viscosity?


.

You should be able to find fluid of various cs ratings at hobby shops that carry radio controlled cars.

I have heard you can mix equal parts of 100,000 and 300,000 to make 200,000 cs if you cannot find it.

My kit came with 200,000 cs fluid and I have about 2/3 if the paddle submerged.
 
Thanks for your answers!

The heaviest silicone oil in our local hobby shops is Losi Racing 100WT, which is quite thin at 1.600 cst.

So my original question still stands... :)

Can I have the same great results using 60.000 cst fluid with fully immersed larger paddle, instead of half immersed medium sized paddle in 2000.000 cst fluid?
 
Thanks for your answers!

The heaviest silicone oil in our local hobby shops is Losi Racing 100WT, which is quite thin at 1.600 cst.

So my original question still stands... :)

Can I have the same great results using 60.000 cst fluid with fully immersed larger paddle, instead of half immersed medium sized paddle in 2000.000 cst fluid?

I´m quite certain that the 60.000cst will be OK. The force is proprtional to the area covered with fluid, so You have options to have a larger area.

I´m myself using a much lower viscosity, albeit not on an SME, it works perfectly.
 
I recently did a major overall haul and upgrade of my Thorens TD 160 which is documented here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=586639 .

This included all of the commonly performed damping mods, a Soundsupport arm board for my SME 3009 tone arm, RCA conversion of the SME 3009 connector, new Emotiva X-series phono cables, a platter bearing thrust plate, an OEM belt from Qaudio (finally got 33.33 to actually equal 33.33), and a whole lot of adjusting and tweaking. During this work I installed the SME FD 200 fluid damper tank (also called a trough), but not the damping paddles or the fluid. I wanted to hear the sound of my table with all the above stated work and then hear the affects of the damping kit. The results of the upgrades have been splendid. I spent several weeks growing accustom to the sound of my “new” turntable and then decided to put the fluid damping into use.

I have attached five pictures showing the damper installation.

Picture 1 shows the vial of SME fluid which is specified to be a 200,000 cs viscosity silicone fluid (which is really thick stuff). You can see the medium size grey which is recommended for compliances above 20 cu.

Picture 2 shows the paddle in the collar with the convex side out. The screw will hold it all together on the tone arm.

Picture 3 shows the paddle and collar screwed loosely around the tone arm and ready to be fit into the trough. Sorry for the poor photo.

Picture 4 shows the alignment of the paddle inside the trough. I played a record end to end to verify no interference but really all you need to do is check the lead in groove, the middle, and the end.

Picture 5 shows the set up to drain the fluid from the vial into the trough. I cut the bottom of the vial, taped the vial into place on the trough, unscrewed the cap on the vial, and went to bed for the night. In the morning the vial was empty and the fluid was evenly distributed in the trough.

The sound was significantly improved right from the start. The bass was much more defined and firm. The midrange is greatly improved. The music is much livelier and has a greater 3D effect. I am finding many records in my collection that I thought sounded kind of flat now sound much better. The fluid damper has a greater effect on the sound than all of the other changes I made combined.

I spent several days listening and adjusting. I found the need to slowly remove small amounts of fluid from the trough. While the sound was better than ever I had some trouble tracking records that had small humps and warps. This surprised me because I was able to track these records with no problem before the fluid damper was present. It seems like too much fluid slows the arm down am hurts the tracking. I experimented with anti-skate and continued to remove fluid until the system was optimized. Many thanks go to Steve (aka Ilikevinyl) for his advice and support.

I ended up with fluid level that covers about 75 to 80% of the paddle and the anti skate setting still is a bit of a mystery. Before the fluid damper I was happy with it at 0.5 (consistent for most people using a V15-III w/ Jico SAS). I am currently setting it to 0.25 but not really sure it is needed at all. It seems to be fine with no anti skate at all.

Operation and feel of the tone arm with the fluid in place is different. Movement of the tone arm has a heavier feel, it is best to move the arm slowly. I do not need the cueing lever to start a record, the arm drops in a damped manner due to the paddle being in the fluid.

In summary the FD-200 kit is a fantastic upgrade to the SME 3009 tone arm. It makes it sound much better. They are getting rare and expensive and I recommend them without reservation.

To those of you that have one I would love to hear your findings. What fluid do you use? How much fluid? What anti skate setting works for you? Etc.

Cheers, Bob

Thanks on your detailed update. I'm glad that FD200 works for some of you SME lovers.
Unfortunately, damping fluid doesn't works for all of us.
I've been waiting for my FD200 in months in hope that finally I shall have that improvement all is talking about.
I did exactly the same as you shown on these pictures on my SME Series III but result is far from as you described.
I can't even use all my vinyl records any more, I'm heavily disappointed.
I use SME SERIES III with ADC XLM Mk III at 1,25 g with anti skating at 1,0 by the way. I tapped whole FD200 bottle, exactly the same as your.

First I noticed was that I lost much in higher frequencies, much poorer in higher spectrum, only the bass got faster on those few records I tested and could spin. Some of LP's will not even play at the beginning, the arm is too rigid with FD200, has difficulties with following the groove exactly at the beginning of many records

Shall I take away all of the fluid and play as before or prove with adjusting and take away down to the paddle only.
I have difficulties to see what kind of paddle I have mounted but I believe it was the smallest one.


Thanks
 
I too bought myself a minty FD200 in a box! :banana:

The only thing that is missing is the fluid. :(

I have just read on the VE forum that the recommended fluid is the original 200.000 cst fluid...

Is it better only because of the very high viscosity?

Unfortunately it would be too difficult and expensive for me to order the original fluid.

Locally I can buy some 60.000 cst silicone fluid.


In the same thread it was said that the best results are obtained with the medium sized paddle only halfway immersed in the 200.000 cst fluid...

Can I get the same result if I fully immerse the paddle in the 60.000 cst fluid?
...And if this is not enough, use the largest paddle?

Or there is some unique quality to the original SME fluid, other than just the higher viscosity?


.

I think FD200 is too thick In my case, with SME Seres III and ADC XLM Mk III mounted. I would rather try some other much lower viscosity fluid. This original one does that cartridge needle don't follow the groove exactly because it's too thick.
 
Sounds like your paddle is crooked in the fluid holder.

Exactly like that! The arm is not so easy floating as it was, before I poured in this bloody SME fluid. Now I have to take that fluid away somehow,,, Now, when i'm over 60, my fingers don't have same touch ability as they had before and have difficulties with mounting such sensitive stuff as a SME arm. Have to take a good look at all that if I will use my best turntable again. Some usable suggestions? Thanks
 
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