Marantz 2230 rebuild "C4" C0G's and 4 pole capacitors
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patfont
Super Member
How about a 1 capacitor recap/rebuild, or rebuild in a can. Installing both the Mundorf and Jensen 4 pole capacitors in the power cap location in my bench Pioneer SX-626 and this 2230 you will think long and hard about touching anything else. They do not just make the background black, they actually make it clear as to, can I hear any electronic artifacts? The music is strong clear detailed and smooth with a very relaxing pace to it-natural!
I actually just sat and listened for a few days with these 4 pole caps installed wondering if I should even do anything else? You get drawn into and just start enjoying the music (which the 2230 does quite well to start with), and these 4 poles push it to a new level with nothing else done.
Some pics:
Pioneer SX-626
Marantz 2230
I actually just sat and listened for a few days with these 4 pole caps installed wondering if I should even do anything else? You get drawn into and just start enjoying the music (which the 2230 does quite well to start with), and these 4 poles push it to a new level with nothing else done.
Some pics:
Pioneer SX-626
Marantz 2230
Last edited:
c.coyle
Fighting the Dunning-Kruger effect.
Me neither. Perhaps you can throw up a simple schematic of these things.
I found this, which doesn't help a whole lot:
"Four pole electrolytic capacitor - Four terminal electrolytics with superior high frequency transfer impedance and transient and noise attenuation/suppression capability. As the input and output circuits of the capacitor are decoupled from each other by means of an inherent filter formed inside the capacitor winding, transients and noises coming from the mains cannot pass through the capacitor and reach the primary signal path. The four pole electrolytic is the ultimate reservoir capacitor choice for switched mode and traditional power supplies."
I found this, which doesn't help a whole lot:
"Four pole electrolytic capacitor - Four terminal electrolytics with superior high frequency transfer impedance and transient and noise attenuation/suppression capability. As the input and output circuits of the capacitor are decoupled from each other by means of an inherent filter formed inside the capacitor winding, transients and noises coming from the mains cannot pass through the capacitor and reach the primary signal path. The four pole electrolytic is the ultimate reservoir capacitor choice for switched mode and traditional power supplies."
patfont
Super Member
Here are the info on the caps:
C007 is the installed location, these are pricey caps, but if you hear either you won't want to be without. Listening through to see if the Jensen is worth the extra $$$ over the Mundorf.
As a note the stock 2230 cap is 40mm, these fit perfect you just need to order a 35mm clamp.
http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/mund_ag+.pdf
https://audio.jensencapacitors.com/public/dokumenter/4pole.pdf
C007 is the installed location, these are pricey caps, but if you hear either you won't want to be without. Listening through to see if the Jensen is worth the extra $$$ over the Mundorf.
As a note the stock 2230 cap is 40mm, these fit perfect you just need to order a 35mm clamp.
http://www.partsconnexion.com/prod_pdf/mund_ag+.pdf
https://audio.jensencapacitors.com/public/dokumenter/4pole.pdf
Last edited:
Leestereo
Super Member
Thanks for the links, Pat.
If I'm not mistaken, these capacitors are similar to the use of multiple capacitors in parallel in a power supply, e.g., instead of using a single 10.000µF capacitor, you use 2 x 5,600µF capacitors together. IIRC, in the mid-90s many high-end SS amplifier designers advocated exactly this approach, and it has now become common place in amplifier power supplies since then. With double the number of capacitors you halved the power supply ESR and the ESL. Of course, you can further decrease the ESR and ESL if you use more capacitors.
The advantage of these particular capacitors, due to their form-factor, is that they can be used to upgrade older amplifiers and receivers, very clever. Thanks for sharing.
c.coyle
Fighting the Dunning-Kruger effect.
Aha! I've seen this setup in my late 70's Kenwood equipment and wondered why.
patfont
Super Member
ok so when I pull the large caps it is easier to do the right amp board, while they are out. Also did the left amp board, and made the amplifier adjustments. I have listened to both the Mundorf and Jensen before any work was done, and am leaving the Jensen onboard for now. When full recap is done will give a relisten to both.
I had contacted Ben (Leestereo) for some ceramic upgrades on the Amp and phono Boards. You can see the new C0G ceramic on the Amp Board 1 per side. Leestereo is a special AKer as to the sharing of info and help here, so I had to force on him a round of beers for his help!
Here are some pics:
I had contacted Ben (Leestereo) for some ceramic upgrades on the Amp and phono Boards. You can see the new C0G ceramic on the Amp Board 1 per side. Leestereo is a special AKer as to the sharing of info and help here, so I had to force on him a round of beers for his help!
Here are some pics:
patfont
Super Member
patfont
Super Member
Time to finish this up......
*Preamp Board is done
*LED's installed, I only use LED's for the dial lights, all bi-pins are replaced the tuning ind. bulb is replaced, and I use a fuse style for the meter as I feel it has a more even light distribution for that location. Added new velum.
*Preamp Board is done
*LED's installed, I only use LED's for the dial lights, all bi-pins are replaced the tuning ind. bulb is replaced, and I use a fuse style for the meter as I feel it has a more even light distribution for that location. Added new velum.
Pat, what is the white foam cushioning for?
My first thought was to keep its toes apart while the polish dried! Just for fun I'm going to guess some form of adhesive other than double sided tape was used to reattach the dial plastic. How'd I do Pat?
patfont
Super Member
patfont
Super Member
Randy you are the best!
I like to run a clear drying type glue across the top just so the bezel is secure. If you do not put some pressure on it, it will not stay perfectly flush. The bottom sits on the ledge, the left side has a screw, and the right side has an adjustable bracket that is pushed to the edge of the bezel. So the glue gets the top secure. if you do not it may when moved or ship move out a bit and could contact the dial pointer and it would rub.
I like to run a clear drying type glue across the top just so the bezel is secure. If you do not put some pressure on it, it will not stay perfectly flush. The bottom sits on the ledge, the left side has a screw, and the right side has an adjustable bracket that is pushed to the edge of the bezel. So the glue gets the top secure. if you do not it may when moved or ship move out a bit and could contact the dial pointer and it would rub.
My first thought was to keep its toes apart while the polish dried! Just for fun I'm going to guess some form of adhesive other than double sided tape was used to reattach the dial plastic. How'd I do Pat?
patfont
Super Member
I know e-caps, need to be replaced among other things and after so many years, but if you install the Mundorf or Jensen 4 pole in a 2230 you will think long and hard about doing anything else.:scratch2:
