Pioneer SX-580 recap vetting

Hi, I have put together a spreadsheet for a pioneer sx-580 receiver recap project. I would appreciate a vetting of the list by experienced AK'ers.

Thanks in advance, Matt

The format is: component, grid location, pioneer p/n, microfarads-volts, mouser.com p/n
FRONT END ASSY GWB-101
Q1, B2, 3SK59-Y, NPN, ksc1845
Q2, B2, 2SC535-A, NPN, "
Q3, A2, 2SC461-B, NPN, "

TUNER & AF ASSY GWM-113
C122, A5 NEAR PIN 9, CEA4R7P 16, 4.7 - 35V, 647-UVR1V4R7MDD1TD
C132, A5 NEAR CHIP, " " "
C165, A4 NEAR CHIP, " " "

C124, B5 NEAR PIN 15, CEA010P 50, 1 - 50V, 647-UVR1H010MDD1TD
C129, A5 NEAR CHIP, " " "
C142, C4 NEAR PIN 60, " " "

C125, A4 NEAR TP1, CEA470P 16, 47 - 16V, 647-UES1C470MPM

C131, C4 NEAR RAIL, CEA221P 16, 220 - 16V, 667-ECE-A1CN221X
C143, C5 NEAR PIN 59, " " "

C133, C5 NEAR PIN 53, CEA331P 16, 330 - 16V, NOT PRESENT ON MY UNIT

C138, C4 NEAR CHIP, CEANL010M 50, 1 - 50V, 647-UVR1H010MDD1TD
C141, C4 NEAR CHIP, " " "

C150, C4 NEAR PIN 59, CEAR47P 50, 0.47 - 50V, 647-UFW1HR47MDD
C151, C4 NEAR CHIP, " " "

C156, B4 NEAR EDGE, CEA100P 16, 10 - 16V, NOT PRESENT ON MY UNIT

C158, B4 NEAR EDGE, CEA220P 16, 22 - 16V, NOT PRESENT ON MY UNIT

C167, B4 NEAR PIN 8, CEA3R3P 50, 3.3 - 50V, 647-UVZ1H3R3MDD1TD

C164, B5 NEAR PIN 8, CEA221P 6, 220 - 6V, 647-UES0J221MPM

C201, C3 NEAR PIN 69, CEANL2R2P 50, 2.2 - 50V , 667-ECA-1HM2R2B
C202, C3 NEAR PIN 69, " " "
C211, C4 NEAR PIN 60, " " "
C212, C5 NEAR EDGE, " " "

C207, C4 NEAR PIN 60, CEANL470P 25, 47 - 25V, 647-UKZ1E470MPM
C208, C3 NEAR PIN 70, " " "

C209, C4 NEAR TP2, CEA101P 10, 100 - 10V, 647-USA1A101MDD
C210, C3 NEAR EDGE, " " "

C219, C3 NEAR PIN 68, CEA470P 50, 47 - 50V, 647-UKZ1H470MPM

C301, C7 NEAR PIN 45, CEANL2R2P 50, 2.2 - 50V, 667-ECA-1HM2R2B
C302, C6 NEAR PIN 39, " " "

C309, C7 NEAR PIN 38, CEA220P 6, 22 - 6V, 647-UKA0J22MDD1TD
C310, C5 NEAR PIN 51, " " "

C311, C7 NEAR STK-0029, CEA470P 35, 47 - 35V, 555-RFS35V470MH3#5
C312, C5 NEAR FNCT SW, " " "

C313, C7 NEAR EDGE, CEA101P 10, 100 -10V, 647-USA1A101MDD
C314, C5 NEAR PIN 37, " " "

C329, D7 NEAR PIN 45, CEANL100P 16, 10 - 16V, NOT PRESENT ON MY UNIT
C330, D5 NEAR PIN 51, " " 647-UVR1C100MDD1TD

C331, C6 NEAR PIN 36, CEA3R3P 50, 3.3 - 50V, 647-UVZ1H3R3MDD1TD
C332, C6 NEAR PIN 37, " " "
C333, C6 NEAR PIN 36, " " "
C334, C6 NEAR PIN 37, " " "

C335, B6 NEAR PIN 14, CEA470P 50, 47 - 50V, 647-UKZ1H470MPM

C336, D5 NEAR PIN 52, CEA470P 16, 47 - 16V, 647-UES1C470MPM

C403, A6 NEAR PIN 11, CEA221P 50, 220 - 50V, 647-UKZ1H221MHM
C404, " " " "
C406, " " " "

C407, A5 NEAR PIN 9, CEA470P 16, 47 - 16V, 647-UES1C470MPM

C408, A5 NEAR PIN 9, CEA101P 25, 100 - 25V, 647-UKZ1E101MPM

C413, B6 NEAR PIN 14, ACH-201, 6800 - 35V, 647-UVR1V682MRD6
C414, B5 NEAR PIN 17, " " "

C415, C5 NEAR PIN 37, CEA221P 35, 220 - 35V, 555-RFS35V221MI6#5

C405, B5 NEAR PIN 15, CEA331P 35, 330 - 35V, 647-UBX1V331MHL

C416, B6 NEAR PIN 14, CEA010P 50, 2.2 - 50V, 667-ECA-1HM2R2B
(Actual part on board differs from schematic)

C501, D4 NEAR PIN 63, CEA3R3P 50, 1 - 50V, 647-UVR1H010MDD1TD
(Actual part on board differs from schematic)

C502, D7 NEAR PIN 45, CEA470P 25, 47 - 25V, 647-UKZ1E470MPM

C503, D3 NEAR PIN 70, CEANL100P 25, 10 - 25V, 647-USP1E100MDD
C504, D4 NEAR PIN 61, " " "

C505, D3 NEAR PIN 72, CEANLR47M 50, 0.47 - 50V, 647-UFW1HR47MDD
C506, D3 NEAR VOLUME, " " "

C518, D3 NEAR VOLUME, CSZAR22M 35, 0.22 - 35, NOT PRESENT ON MY UNIT

Q7, C4 NEAR PIN 60, 2SA726S-G or F, PNP, ksa992
Q8, C4 NEAR PIN 59, " " "

Q201, C3 NEAR TP2, 2SC1919-G or F, NPN, ksc1845
Q202, C3 NEAR PIN 69, " " "

Q203, C4 NEAR TP2, 2SA725P-F or G, PNP, ksa992
Q204, C3 NEAR PIN 69, " " "

LED ASSY GWX-117
C515, D1, CEB221P 6, 220 - 6V, 647-TVX0J221MAD

Note: I measured all the caps on the boards with digital calipers, then I found the closest to the original size from what was stocked at mouser.com.

Total cost: $31.83 including the open resistor R401.

thanks

If you use these with success, and/or it gets vetted by the experts, let me know and I will add it to my Recap lists thread!

Will do. I went ahead with the order, and will start the recap project this weekend.

Ok, finished the recap yesterday. The receiver looks and works perfectly. I checked DC offset and only read a couple of millivolts.

Some notes for future users of the above list:

The service manual and schematic lists C131 as 220uF, 16V, but the actual was 100uF, 16V.

The grid location for C212 should actually be C3 near edge, my list above says C5.

C133, C156, C158, and C518 although on the parts list and on the schematic were not present on my unit.

C221 is not listed on the parts list in the manual, but it is there, grid location: C4 near pin 60, a 10uF 16V, mouser #: 647-UVR1C100MDD1TD

C329 is shown on the schematic at grid location D7 near pin 45, but on my unit it was actually at D6 near pin 38 (10uF 16V).

C416 is listed in the manual as a 1uF 50V, but it actually was a 2.2uF 50V

C501 is listed in the manual as a 3.3uF 50V, but it actually was a 1uF 50V.

I missed/forgot C139, Pioneer #: CSZA6R8M6. A tiny little blue encapsulated electrolytic cap. I chose to not replace that one, rather than order a replacement.

All in all a fun and educational project. I set the receiver up in my teenage sons room yesterday, sounds really nice.

Thanks to all who helped when the receiver had no sound output. Especially markthefixer and quaddriver.

Some before and after pics...

more pics...

trying to get more than one photo in a post, but no luck... here is before:

One last note, I did have to ream some of the holes in the board to fit the new cap leads. I used a tiny little #60 drill bit that I actually had in my drill index. Don't know if this is typical for recap projects, since this was my first. Reaming the holes was no big deal, as long as you have the right size drill bit.

you encountered leftover wave solder flux in the holes, no big deal as long as the foil pads aren't hurt during drilling.

BTW my first glance showed tuner transistors, with a 3sk mosfet being tentatively replaced by a ksc1845... totally a no-go on that substitution. Audio transistors only, and just selected few. TUNER transistor replacement is a sure fire way to brick the tuner. There are only selected subs, almost always in the final audio only sections.

quite a cap spectrum selected there, my recommendations tend towards long life UPW and for low leakage (non-cea caps) UKL.

markthefixer said:

you encountered leftover wave solder flux in the holes, no big deal as long as the foil pads aren't hurt during drilling.

BTW my first glance showed tuner transistors, with a 3sk mosfet being tentatively replaced by a ksc1845... totally a no-go on that substitution. Audio transistors only, and just selected few. TUNER transistor replacement is a sure fire way to brick the tuner. There are only selected subs, almost always in the final audio only sections.

quite a cap spectrum selected there, my recommendations tend towards long life UPW and for low leakage (non-cea caps) UKL.

Click to expand...

Yes, should have mentioned that I didn't replace the tuner transistors. So definitely scratch Q1, Q2, and Q3 from the above list. I did replace the 2SA726 and 2SA725 Q7, Q8, Q203, and Q204 with ksa992's, and the 2SC1919 Q201 and Q202 with ksc1845's. Seems to have worked fine.

As far as the cap spectrum, chalk it up to inexperience, tried to pick ones listed as audio grade if I recall.

Dudes, just simply do not F___ with tuners if they work. Maybe lytics but nothing else. That is asking for trouble.

When it doesn't work fine, fix it. But if you turn the knob and hear the radio stations, leave it be. Trust me on this.

Ahh... here it is.

I took the list above and put it into a spreadsheet, took into consideration the updates after the original post and came up with this pivot table of parts for ordering.