wharefdale W60???? Melton???

I picked these up real cheap. They seem to be a very well made home cabinet. but dont know if the kit is based on a melton or W60 or ??? The 12 inch woofer and crossover and tweeter kit shown is excactly what is in mine. What is the little green capacitor???
So... I will be running these of an 80watt Sansui 8080DB and dont want to fry them.
I think they sound beautiful as is. But the little green rectangle cap thing has scorched the wooden backplate, so I suppose is out of spec, and I should probably change. Nothing is written on it.
If someone could tell me exactly what and where to buy so that I may up the spec and not kill these with my 80watt sansui 8080Db I would appreciate it.,
I don't push the volume with these speakers, I know they are rated at 30-50watt and love them too much.
What do you think the kit was for??? W60? Melton??? Does this mid adjustment on my receiver make up for the lack of mid speaker ????
More photos of what they looked like when found versus my restoration to come...

Here are some shots of the one speaker I have done a dodgy restore on and the one I have not touched yet.
I put wadding on the rear and the front, (stapled on) it had been rolled and thrown in, the one I have restored (ish) sounds less trebly than the other now (not sure if I like it or not)

If someone could address the questions in my first post I would be very happy. thanks

Oooooooooops her are the photos, How is this different from a W60 or a Melton? what do I by to recap them, there is no writing on the long green one.

Someone else may be able to comment in depth, but these speakers look different than my W60s. I have the original early 60s version. The woofer looks similar but the tweeter is in the wrong position on the baffle, the tweeter is a different model, and the crossover is completely unlike the W60.

look like wharfie drivers. PM gangtwanger; he is the expert. not a w60 cabinet for sure.

Not a W60. The W60D MKII used that tweeter, but it is a 3-way, not a 2-way. My best guess without researching is that they were kit Meltons (or Meltons that were purchased with the unfinished cabs). I'll do some digging and see what I can find for info, but Melton or Glendale sounds like the closest. Not a Dovedale or Dovedale 3.

Those are obviously a little smaller than the W60D's (The earlier, 2-way, ported W60 version has a cone-tweeter, and the W60C, W60D, and W60E are all 3-way).

Is that box sealed? No port, right?

I don't think those cabs are the exact ones from the Glendale, but I'll keep looking. They sold lots of kits at that point.

Won't know the cap values and crossover points until (at least until) we figure out which model it's supposed to be. There should only be one cap, right? And maybe a choke for the woofer? I've never owned the Melton or Glendale models, so I never got into the crossover. Those are not as common here in the US as they are in the UK/Europe (Most of my Wharfies are W*0 -type models like the W60's and W90's... My W90's made me realize just how much potential there is in these old Wharfedale models... Those things are downright-epic with a good tube amp).

Thanks Gangtwanger,
I am now 99% sure that these are a kit version of the original Melton.
They sure look like the photo of the Melton.
Yep they are a sealed cabinet. No port.
I have searched google all over and there is a bit of info on the Melton2 but none None NONE on the original Melton.
There is 1 capacitor and I suppose the long green thing in the crossover is the choke for the woofer you speak of. I have no idea of what that means, but it has gotten so hot it seems to have almost caught fire and scorched the wood on both cabinets. There are no numbers, writing or specs left that are decernable an anything.
I know these are probably lowly, but they are the right size for me, I got them for $10 and I cant afford anything else, so I choose to love them.
Would recapping and replacing the choke make a difference in sound? Anything else I could do to improve the sound?
Could you take a stab at the replacement capacitor and choke???
Thanks.

I just found these exact crossovers for sale on ebay in England (they wont post to Aus)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RARE-70s...523?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item232b4e042b

But at $145 ozzie dollors plus postage I would pass even if they did.

But does the photo help identify the cap or choke or any other parts I need?
It looks like the choke has 16ohm written on it, does this mean the speakers are 16ohm?
The back of the crossever has markings suggesting 1978, but my woofer has been written on in ink as 1970, anyway, thanks for looking at my feeble wharfies.

Looks like a single 8uF cap - - - remove and replace that black/red thingy with a high quality film capacitor and you should be in good shape.

I have decided to replace to 50volt electolitic with 400v prpoloene.
Question is, do I need to upgrade the inductor/choke to handle the extra voltage, why has the inductor scorched the backing plate?

If someone could post a link to the inductor I need to replace that can handle the 400volt I would really appreciate it. I have looked everywhere and cant work it out. Thanks in advance.

Will these do the trick? Do I really need to replace the choke?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-LOT-...900?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2804220f84

I'll at least give you a bump. Crossovers were never my strong point, so I don't want to say either way. I still don't understand the difference between a choke and a cap (except that one is a hat and the other is pointing at his throat and turning blue).

It's a very-simple crossover circuit. First-order, I assume. That tweeter is the same one used in the W60D MKII. Wharfedale sold lots of kit speakers, including a kit based on the original 2-way W60, but with slightly-different drivers. I should check my book and see if I can find any info on that one. I doubt it would mention crossover info. I would just use the same cap size as is in that picture you posted, and then go with the 400v-rated choke like you had mentioned (You said 400v, right?). Being a 2-way, those might not even be rated for 50wpc (30wpc would be my guess, or maybe 40, but I don't know for sure. Careful with power. Those tweeters don't handle overpowering that well, so easy on the volume.

Was that choke already burnt before you started using them, or did you use them for a while and then open them up (I've done it several times myself, so...).

Wow... Turkey, huh? ... Never had anything shipped from there before... How many "grammes" are in a pound?

Thanks for bumping me, felt good... (I had to google what a bump is, I'm that much of a ludite).
They were scorched when I got them,
The speakers are rated at 35wpc, and I am careful with my 85wpc receiver (sansui 8080db)
I cant find inductors that rate the voltage, do these numbers indicate that it will handle poly 400v - or should I stick with original electrolite 50v?
"GENUINE DALE IM-10-22 5.6uH 10% HI END INDUCTORS FOR AUDIO".

Yeah, I figured they would be 30 or 40. You should look around for a low-powered Sansui like a 1000x or 2000, or the 2000a even. A 2000x would probably fetch a bit more as it's a popular model and size, but one of the lower-powered early solid-state Sansui models, even the 350a would light those speakers up. It's got to do with the preamp voicing, which is very-tubelike with those models, including the 350a. The Wharfedales from that era were sold all over the place with Sansui gear from that era. They were a great match. The late '70's models, as nice as they are, were made in a completely-different era, as far as sonic preferences/power preferences are concerned. Even if it's got a beater case, you can always get one later or something. Anyway, something to think about down the road. Actually, that 8080 can do the power-out thing, I assume, so if an early solid-state Sansui preamp came up cheap (one from the late '60' or early '70's, I suppose you could do that too, although the preamp would probably cost more than the receivers I mentioned.

Where did you get 400 volts from? Just what you were thinking, or was the original or the one in that other picture a 400v one? Oh, you mean to go with the capacitor replacements you had in mind? I think electrolytics of the 250v variety would be fine, or are you thinking about your receiver? Still, I would just do electrolytics, unless you want to throw some n.o.s. oil caps in there? I would get some n.o.s. non-PCB oil caps from the late '60's or early '70's. Won't cost as much as the PCB-filled ones from the tube era, and it's still a real-deal oil cap. Those would do those speakers justice and cost no more than $20 for the pair. Anyway, just a thought. But I wouldn't bother with the poly ones. I really don't think you need to splurge for those as far as modern caps are concerned (unless you already did). Also, I know oil caps work well in the W*0D and W*0E series models, so they should be a good choice for yours.

I was told to replace my 50 volt elecrolytic with a polypropolyne which I am told is only available in 400 volt???
Thanks for the heads up on compatible sansuis, they are ultra expensive here in Australia. I imported my 8080db from the U.S as there are none at all here in Oz. The models you mentioned do appear, but at 3 times the online auction prices you guys get them for, and never ever at turn up at thrift or garage sales.
I wish I had the brain capacity to understand how sonics and electricity actually work. Trying to learn this is not good for my ego.

As with many products small changes are implemented during the production run.So also with the Melton.
The first version-of which I have a pair-have hardwired crossovers(no PCB),values are apparently changed with time and the two different tweeters.
Size of the box is also changed slightly.
Drivers changed from being mounted from behind to being mounted from the front.
Both drivers changed their position on the baffle.
Binding posts were also changed.

The first version looks like this:
Note that the coil values probably are determined by the color.Cap is 6uF.Resistor is 22 ohms.
Size of the box is 53,6x33x26 cm.
Also note the rather high position of the woofer and that the tweeter(the famous purple fried egg)is centrally mounted.

Yay!!! Someone else with original Meltons.Though yours look factory and mine are kit.
Mine measure 30cm x 35cm x 60cm.
My crossovers look identical, my cap is also 6mfd.
You say your resistor (what I was calling a choke/inductor) is 22ohm, I saw another in a photo I posted earlier that is 16ohm).
I don't suppose you know where to purchase said item?
I can only compare mine to my JBL L40 and some newer stuff, How do yours match up to your other speakers.
Should I bother doing the crossovers in your opinion?

O.K, now I call it a resistor (I'm still learning and confused) I have found the part for sale. Now to decide if I purchase the 16ohm I have seen in some Melton xovers or the 22ohm as in Rolfs xovers.
Mine were scorched, is one safer than the other?
Yayy. I am getting somewhere thanks to you guys.

Can you read a value off either resistor? If you can, I would replace with the same value that is there.

If not, then I would use 22 ohm resistors as in the pictures Rolf posted. Your crossovers are not exactly the same as the ones in the ebay link. They appear to be exactly the same as Rolf's which is why I suggest 22 ohms rather than 16. (The difference is the point to point wiring rather than the PCB in the ebay picture. This doesn't guarantee that the resistor values should be the same, but it is suggestive.)

Unfortunately it doesn't look like there is information on the wattage specification. The scorching is likely due to too low of a wattage specification. Resistors turn electrical current into heat. See for example, http://www.learnabout-electronics.org/Resistors/resistors_15.php

Assuming you can't read any values off either of your resistors, if these were mine, I would use a 22 ohm resistor with a relatively high wattage rating. Murdorf makes a 22 ohm resistor with a 25 watt rating (http://www.partsconnexion.com/resistors_mundorf_r25.html) which is about as good as you will do for a crossover - I don't think I have seen a resistor in a crossover with a rating greater than 25 watts.

Regarding the cap, I would replace it with a bi-polar Electrolytic with the same value as the original if it were me. Since 6 uF is hard to come by, I would probably use a 3.3 and a 2.7 (http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_ele_mundorf_bipol.html)

HTH.