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Adding an in-line power clicker switch to a 500B

chadbang

chadbang

Well-Known Member
From what I hear, the power switch on old Fishers (like my 500B) are unobtanium. To help prevent a broken switch, some folks recommended using an external on/off switch to power the unit on and off. I have a Leviton switch which I was going to install on the power cord (a clicker lamp-type switch). But I'm not sure how to wire the switch. I notice on my original Fisher 500B cord that one wire has a small ridge or line marking on it. Would this be the ground or the power wire?
 
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Why don't you get one of those XMAS tree switch cords. The tree (or the 500B) plugs into it , with the extension cord having a switch at the end of it. You don't have to cut and splice anything, and you get a remote switch.
 
notdigital said:
Actually, if you're up to working with tiny pieces, you can rebuild the switch. You can source the mini parts from switches that are readily available at auction. Here's a link on what I did:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=8430236&postcount=4
Click to expand...
I've never seen someone who had the stones to disassemble one of these little buggers:eek: That's really good to know. I suppose if another donor switch wasn't available you could touch up those contacts(if they're not burned up too badly) with some fine sandpaper or a tiny sharpening stone in a pinch. Thanks for posting your links to those pics of the disassembled switch...pretty cool!

John
 
IMTubeHead said:
... I suppose if another donor switch wasn't available you could touch up those contacts(if they're not burned up too badly) with some fine sandpaper or a tiny sharpening stone in a pinch. John
Click to expand...

If the switch isn't working, then at least one of the spring contacts has been eaten up due to arching. Nothing will be really left to clean up so the only option is to replace or rebuild. If you're lucky enough to have a two part switch, then the switch part of the pot is pretty easy to replace. If you have a single case switch assembly, then the only option is to rebuild.

And yeah John, years of breaking down fishing reels apparently grew my 'nads. :D
 
IMTubeHead said:
I've never seen someone who had the stones to disassemble one of these little buggers:eek: That's really good to know. I suppose if another donor switch wasn't available you could touch up those contacts(if they're not burned up too badly) with some fine sandpaper or a tiny sharpening stone in a pinch. Thanks for posting your links to those pics of the disassembled switch...pretty cool!

John
Click to expand...

In most cases, if you can get it apart without actually breaking anything, you can fix it.

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Those switches are out there, its a CRL KR-2, it has 4 terminals on it because of the extra current used in that set as well as the switched outlets. These do show up at hamfests an on eBay, you may also use the two terminal switches IF you use an onrush current limiter, such as a CL-80, these switches go bad because of all the inrush current when you first turn on the set. You may also find these, particularly the two terminal ones on the back of pots, just remove it and put it on yours, I have done this on a number of these switched pots.
 
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