Coral 10CX-50 2 way speakers

I picked these up today at a garage sale for $10.

As soon as I saw them with that fabric front and one speaker I asked if I could take one of the backs off to have a look.
As soon as I saw them I knew they were special.
The old fella said they were working so for $10 I snaffled them.
They are working and sound beautiful.
I have them connected to a valve amp.
Not a lot of information available in English but enough to know they are very good.
I found a site which give box dimensions for a closed box and ported.
These are closed with no stuffing at all in them which I'm wondering May effect the sound.
They aren't what I'd called fully sealed either as the rear panel has older screw holes and a half inch hole for the speaker wire

Great score! I have some Coral 16 ohm speakers waiting for me to get a tube amp with 16 ohm taps refurbished. I know when I finally get it all together it will sound great.

Sealed enclosures are supposed to be airtight sealed. Some leakage is expected from surrounds - if they are foam or cloth - and perhaps the dustcap on the woofer.

Without signal on them, if you gently press the woofer cone a bit, it should take a bit of effort for the woofer to gradually return to it's resting position.

A simple hole for cables to go in isn't correct by any means and it doesn't make the enclosures a ported design - just a leaking enclosure or a badly tuned ported design.

Additionally, a back plate secured with just four screws is a bad idea. If there's no sealing material there it also leaks. And 4 screws don't ensure the back plate is fastened well enough so it doesn't "rattle". You may not hear it as a rattle but at the 100~150Hz where it probably has it's resonance frequency, the back plate will vibrate causing some coloration.

It's a good idea to make use of the hole as a starting point to mount a receptacle for binding posts (choose one close to the dimensions of the hole and enlarge the hole as needed). Also use a polyfoam weather strip between the back plate and the enclosure and also increase the number of screws to at least 3 along the narrow edges and 4 along the long ones.

Additionally, remove the speaker from the enclosure and check if there's weather strip between it's flange and the enclosure.

And, while you are there, consider mounting acoustic foam to the inside of the enclosures. I would prefer gluing bitumen sheets to the inside of the enclosures, covering at least 75% of their inner surface. Not only does this restrict resonances, it also reduces the transparency of the enclosure walls and keeps the driver backfire inside the cabinet.

The above measures should enhance the sound quality.