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Uprading AU-919 Speaker Binding Posts

dr*audio

Fish fingers and custard!
I have found a very nice upgrade for the binding posts on this amp. It would probably work on the AU-717 as well. I had a customer who had the plastic knobs disintegrate on his amps. I found I could replace them by making a monting plate and installing Parts Express binding posts. Here's how:
Here's what the original posts loooked like:
http://render2.snapfish.com/render2...?*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gXPPe|Rup6lQQ|/of=50,590,442

2. Remove the old assembly (2 screws.)
3. Make a hole template out of the old mounting plate by carefully drilling out the threaded ferrules for the old posts and removing the ferrules and posts.

http://render2.snapfish.com/render2...?*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gXPoQ|Rup6lQQ|/of=50,590,442


4. Cut a piece of black ABS plastic 8586K172 from McMaster-Carr, to the outline of the template.
5. There are 6 small holes in the template; 2 on the center horizontal axis that are the mounting holes, and 4 others, 2 of which you are going to use as registration holes to line the template up with the plastic blank. Place the template on top of the plastic blank and drill one registation hole with a 5/64" bit. Insert a finishing nail through the hole to anchor the 2 pieces, and drill a second hole in the position diagonal to the first hole. Insert a nail to anchor the second corner.
6. Drill the 2 mounting holes with the same bit.
7. Drill a pilot hole for each terminal with a 11/64" bit.
8. Remove the nails and template.
9. Drill a hole for each terminal with a 13/64" bit.
The mounting plate should now look like this:
http://render2.snapfish.com/render2...?*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gXPol|Rup6lQQ|/of=50,590,442

10. Install the PArts Express terminals, part# 091-1250 , 2 pkgs of 4 needed. Should look like this:
http://render2.snapfish.com/render2...?*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gXPoJ|Rup6lQQ|/of=50,590,442

11. The entire assembly now installs in the amp with 2 screws:
http://render2.snapfish.com/render2...?*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gXPoP|Rup6lQQ|/of=50,590,442


When you solder the wires onto the terminals, use minimal heat for as short duration as possible so as not to melt the plastic in the panel. You may find the terminals will sink into the plastic a bit from the heat and require retightening, a pain to do with the wires soldered on them.
 
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The only thing I had trouble with was cutting the ABS plastic. I ended up using a sabre saw and the plastic was melting and "healing" itself in back of the blade!
I think my blade may just be dull, though.
 
Nice upgrade. Most of my Sansui gear could use a speaker terminal upgrade. Here's a hint for cutting plastic for those with powertools: I use my radial arm saw with a plywood blade that is reversed. The cut has no melted edge and is clean.
 
dr*audio said:
Here's what the original posts loooked like:
http://render2.snapfish.com/render2...?*KUp7BHSHqqy7XH6gXPPe|Rup6lQQ|/of=50,590,442

When you solder the wires onto the terminals, use minimal heat for as short duration as possible so as not to melt the plastic in the panel. You may find the terminals will sink into the plastic a bit from the heat and require retightening, a pain to do with the wires soldered on them.
Warren, I think I saw that AU-919... figured it wouldn't be too hard to fix, for the right person. You've done a mighty fine job of it here. :thmbsp:

Heat sinks like alligator or hemostats should prevent the plastic from melting while you're soldering, but you probably tried that.
Way to keep another Sansui alive! :banana:
 
To prevent that problem soldering, put the nuts down the wire, then feed the wire through your new panel and solder them to the new teminal. Then pull the wire & terminal back into place, feed the nuts back up the wire and tighten.

Of course, this might not work depending on the particulars of the amp - wire length, etc.
 
ojTHEd said:
To prevent that problem soldering, put the nuts down the wire, then feed the wire through your new panel and solder them to the new teminal. Then pull the wire & terminal back into place, feed the nuts back up the wire and tighten.

Of course, this might not work depending on the particulars of the amp - wire length, etc.


Actually, I think next time instead of using the second nut as a locknut, I'll use crimp- on eyelet terminals on the wires, then slip the eyelets over the shaft and secure with the nut. Wish I had thought of that before; I have the terminals, too!
 
Used the crimp on eyelets this time, worked like a charm. I soldered the wires to the eyelets for better contact.
 
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