Replacing Marantz 22xx series lamps

There seems to be quite a lot of questions about the best way (easiest) to replace the dial lamps in, say, a 2270 or 2245, etc.

Maybe we can all post our favorite methods here and then others can use it as a reference.

Include things to avoid, dangerous practices and fixes for mistakes.

This may sound like a simple problem but it can be challenging to a person who has never done it before.

My background:

I refurbish Marantz equipment as a hobby now and I have worked as an audio tech for over thirty-five years. When I refurbish my stuff, I always replace all lamps (with my own self-designed LED lamps). The incandescents always create a very greenish glow and the heat generated during the past thirty years usually has yellowed the vellum on the display diffuser - causing uneven lighting and an even greener display. The LEDs typically compensate for the old, yellowed, vellum and there usually is no need to replace it (a big pain, since the display is held in by really old, hard, rubber cement. It's often easy to break or mark-up the display when removing it unless you are super careful).

Replacing the lamps:

For me, by far the easiest method is to move the dial pointer to the center of it's run, take off the bottom and top of the case, remove the five screws on either side holding the front assembly to the chassis, lean the front assembly forward and then remove the two screws holding the fuse lamp board and pull the lamp board straight back.

I forgot to mention that I remove the black tuning cord guard, too.

This method provides plenty of room and very easy access. Takes about ten minutes total.

No need to worry about the dial cord breaking.

Just be sure the unit is off and, if you decide to try it out before reassembleing, be sure the secondary power supply's pass transistor case is not in contact with the back of the front assembly. The front assembly's edge tends to reach it when leaned forward.

This method also creates very easy access to the indicator and stereo lamps. You can pull the entire indicator board out and lay it on top of the dial pointer slider. No worrys about touching the soldering iron to the dial cord and breaking it.

DH

Thanks for this post. I replaced all the lamps in my 2238B with no prior experience. Other than snapping off a couple white clips that hold the lamp board and signal meter, I did alright. I have a 2252B on the way and might replace those as well, if needed. Any tips for that unit?

Thanks, CR

whsh93a said:

There seems to be quite a lot of questions about the best way (easiest) to replace the dial lamps in, say, a 2270 or 2245, etc.

Maybe we can all post our favorite methods here and then others can use it as a reference.

Include things to avoid, dangerous practices and fixes for mistakes.

This may sound like a simple problem but it can be challenging to a person who has never done it before.

Replacing the lamps:

For me, by far the easiest method is to move the dial pointer to the center of it's run, take off the bottom and top of the case, remove the five screws on either side holding the front assembly to the chassis, lean the front assembly forward and then remove the two screws holding the fuse lamp board and pull the lamp board straight back.

This method provides plenty of room and very easy access. Takes about ten minutes total.

No need to worry about the dial cord breaking.

Just be sure the unit is off and, if you decide to try it out before reassembleing, be sure the secondary power supply's pass transistor case is not in contact with the back of the front assembly. The front assembly's edge tends to reach it when leaned forward.

This method also creates very easy access to the indicator and stereo lamps. You can pull the entire indicator board out and lay it on top of the dial pointer slider. No worrys about touching the soldering iron to the dial cord and breaking it.

DH

Click to expand...

Removing the front assembly sounds interesting, I've always dealt with the tight quarters in the 2270 without doing this, it can be frustrating, removing the assembly would really give you more space. My best advice to anyone messing with these is to never remove the push button covers, those plastic switch shafts like to snap and then you really have problems, Dave. :yes:

I pull the faceplate off and remove the vellum paper to access the front bulbs. Replace the paper to, it gets nasty over the years and makes your new bulbs appear green and not blue.

whsh93a, Have you ever taken apart a Model 20 tuner? Do they have the vellum like the other Marantz's? I have a very early serial # 20 that has a very pretty green dial, evenly lit. I wonder if this is original. From the pictures I've seen of a Model 23, it looks like the same green. Mine is definetly one of the first few made, even has a stainless steel shroud behind the faceplate. Every one I've seen before had a black shroud. The 18 receiver has a green dial so Marantz did do green sometimes.

Any ideas why my 20's dial would be green if it's supposed to be blue? I'd be grateful for anyone elses thoughts too.

I usually have a martini, then I tip the lamp housing(s) backward, change the &^%$ lamps, then have another martini. I never realized before that Marantz was some foreign translation of masochist.

Rob

Marantz likes to pack everything in real tight. Some of the boards are upside down and under other boards. I rue the day I have to replace the lamps in my 2238. It will take a pitcher of martinis or more likely bourbon, neat.

whsh93a,
It's a good idea to make stickies out of how to relamp, and how to change the vellum paper, restring and string replacements for the Marantz since its a frequently asked.

CRamsey,
The 2252B will be identical to the 2238B. You'll notice the face plate is identical too, except the 2252B has a couple more holes cut out. Same with the 2265B too.

I started working on Marantz so I got used to the tight quarters from the start. When I finally replaced a bulb on the Pioneer SX-1050 it was a pleasure. Kinda like an vintage American truck. You could climb in and work on it.

Am I the only one who thinks replacing marantz lamps is a breeze?

I guess after that episode with a HK230A, everything seems easy.

2270:

Remove black cover plate over tuner and its string.

Function lights & Stereo indicator: remove corresponding screws that face back (3) or up (2?) and slide bar out. Tight to work and be careful with the soldering iron! One nick and your tuner string is history. These bulbs are soldered in. The Stereo indicator has two bulbs in series, if one goes out, the other one will not light even if good. Make sure to test both idividually and replace the faulty one.

Dial: two screws facing up that have to be accessed diagonally with a phillips will allow that bar to be pulled out just enough to replace all 5 bulbs. When you replace the dial light bar, make sure there is enough airflow, leave an opening at the top between the light box and the bar since there is some play in the screw holes, meaning, don't but it up tight against the light box, but leave it as far back as the screws allow. This represents approximately a 1/16" gap that runs the length of the box providing better airflow.

Meters: same as above, two screws and pull out light bar from the back.

Removing the faceplate just complicates things.

For sure Marantz used green, too. However, I think that the Twenty had a blue display. It was made around 1970 (I think) so it's more likely to be fitted with the "trademarked" blue/silver look. I have taken one apart but it was a LONG time ago - so I don't remember much about it. I don't know if it has the velum.

DH

onemug said:

whsh93a, Have you ever taken apart a Model 20 tuner? Do they have the vellum like the other Marantz's? I have a very early serial # 20 that has a very pretty green dial, evenly lit. I wonder if this is original. From the pictures I've seen of a Model 23, it looks like the same green. Mine is definetly one of the first few made, even has a stainless steel shroud behind the faceplate. Every one I've seen before had a black shroud. The 18 receiver has a green dial so Marantz did do green sometimes.

Any ideas why my 20's dial would be green if it's supposed to be blue? I'd be grateful for anyone elses thoughts too.

Click to expand...

alexkerhead said:

Am I the only one who thinks replacing marantz lamps is a breeze?

I guess after that episode with a HK230A, everything seems easy.

Click to expand...

You are not alone man. I took the whole board out the back of the plastic housing very carefully with dental tools on my 2285B after learning the hard way just how rediculously fragile the front plastic clips were. Was a lot easier to just pry that loose (at least mine was). Took 1/2 the time it did on the 2252B I had before then.

Those white plastic tabs alway break off. I use tape to hold the bar afterwards.

Those clips were fine when they were only a few years old, but heat and dryness over many years destroys the clip structure.
I use hot glue to put the plastic parts back on, it works the best from my experience.
It boggles me Marantz was building some of the finest gear ever produced and decided that plastic was a good idea for clip retaining...oh well, everything has flaws.

Very true. I'd say it was a problem too distant in the later years of their products back then the didn't think about. Kenwood was smart. Metal housings and screws; no clips.

Hi everyone, newbie here. I just changed all of the bulbs in my 2238B. Found it to be a fairly easy task considing my limited soldering abilities. However, I accidently got to close to the tuner string and yes, I burned it in half. Does anyone know where I can order a new string. I'd appreciate any help on this. I'm planning on trying to fix it myself before sending the unit to the repair shop. Thanks