KLH-6 Spearkers - KLH 6 Recap How To

[RTally]

I would use the original thin foam for the tweeter.

If I use Mortite, I only use one strand. That makes it easier to see the holes for inserting the screws. No need to overdo it because when you tighten the basket to the baffle, it will squeeze out a bit. Alternatively, you can use foam gasket material instead of the Mortite.

 

[shnaggle]

Ok, then I might have overdid it with the Mortite. But -- the woofers are back in the speaker. They seem ok, so I'll just remember to use less for the next project (which will probably be a Dynaco A25 recap). Tomorrow, I apply the second coat of the sealant, and we'll see how the Model 6's sound on Saturday.

 

[k4yg33]

I just completed my project this weekend. Rather than chip out the epoxy while it was inside the speaker I very carefully used a putty knife to remove the nails and work on things on my bench. It all went smoothly and the result is really good. Thanks to the original post!

 

[rubinow]

I know this is an old thread, but man: this is one of the only posts that actually shows what to do. Most of the others are just pictures and a diagram and "go ahead and do it!" I've got a "newer" version of the sixes. I'm cleaning up the wood. I made new tweeter gaskets from craft foam. The woofers are out and I'm getting ready to change out the capacitors. I have just normal black window insulation for the woofer gasket. I also have the sealant. Wish me luck!

 

[wmgwizard]

Good Luck !!!

For resealing your enclosure and making driver to cabinet seals check out a product called More-Tite available at almost any hardware/home improvement store. It is a flexible, pliable rope caulk that works well.

 

[k4yg33]

I know this is an old thread, but man: this is one of the only posts that actually shows what to do. Most of the others are just pictures and a diagram and "go ahead and do it!" I've got a "newer" version of the sixes. I'm cleaning up the wood. I made new tweeter gaskets from craft foam. The woofers are out and I'm getting ready to change out the capacitors. I have just normal black window insulation for the woofer gasket. I also have the sealant. Wish me luck!

I used this thread to do mine a few months ago. Mine are the old solid epoxy ones… ‍‍‍ Good luck!

 

[sunvalleylaw]

Bumping this thread as I am going to have to do this again. On two new to me speakers I will have soon, and one with the glued in woofer I didn't get done before. I should still have the parts I bought for that one around here somewhere.

 

[ynnek4]

This thread has been a great help so thanks again.

I do think I may have an issue though. I recently found some 6's (later models) and opened them up. I am not seeing the 8.0 capacitor. Mine looks like it is missing in both, and the wires where I think it should be are electrical taped together. I have attached some pics. I have some Dayton caps on order so still waiting on them. Thanks for any help you can provide. I am quite the beginner so please be easy on me.

 

[tgmartin]

Yeah, that is quite the confusing little rat's nest there. Are the drivers real/original or are they possibly replacements? I ask because the wires going to them from this bunch don't appear to be factory. The 8uf cap should be the last thing in line on the positive feed to the tweeter and is usually/sometimes found screwed to the inside of the cabinet using a plastic clamp. On yours it looks like they replaced the cap with a piece of gray zip cord between the Blue wire and the Red wire (supposedly going to the tweeter). If they actually ran this speaker without the cap it's likely the tweeter is burned, unless it was replaced with a piezo ... OUCH! There are other illustrations online of the complete physical connections but there is a schematic on second page of this thread.

 

[ynnek4]

Yeah, that is quite the confusing little rat's nest there. Are the drivers real/original or are they possibly replacements? I ask because the wires going to them from this bunch don't appear to be factory. The 8uf cap should be the last thing in line on the positive feed to the tweeter and is usually/sometimes found screwed to the inside of the cabinet using a plastic clamp. On yours it looks like they replaced the cap with a piece of gray zip cord between the Blue wire and the Red wire (supposedly going to the tweeter). If they actually ran this speaker without the cap it's likely the tweeter is burned, unless it was replaced with a piezo ... OUCH! There are other illustrations online of the complete physical connections but there is a schematic on second page of this thread.

Thanks for your reply! Drivers all appear to be original and correct. I did hear them play and they were working, but sounded a bit lean (bright). I will check out the schematic in the meantime.

 

[tgmartin]

Nice looking speaks! I still can't quite suss out what's going on with the replaced wires and electrical tape but it sure looks like it might be wise to start at the beginning (the + input) and map it out for yourself before taking it apart any further. Keep in mind that you have the "3 headed" 2uf cap that is two caps in a single body sharing the input side. I looks like the stuff that is on the switch (the 3 resistors and the dual 2uf cap) are in their correct location and it could be that the woofer/inductor part are essentially OK.

 

[tgmartin]

I guess it boils down to the Blue wire and the Positive lead to the tweeter. It looks like your tweeter has color coded leads, one Red, for Positive, and one Black, for Negative. Correct? Older KLH stuff wasn't consistent like that and the Positive lead would be identified by a knot tied in the wire. Really. Anyway, the Blue wire from the switch should be attached to one side of a non-polarized 8uf capacitor and the Positive lead to the tweeter should be attached to the other side of the capacitor. The Negative lead to the tweeter should be attached to the Negative Black wires SOMEHOW.

Here's the rub - there are SOME Black wires in your nest that aren't Negative leads. The Inductor (the round deal screwed to the cabinet) has a Red wire going into it from the "+" terminal on the back panel and a Black wire leaving it. THIS Black wire needs to be attached to the Positive side of the woofer, hence the wire nut attaching it to the Red wire going to the woofer. The Negative side of the woofer has a Black wire going to it that should be attached to the "-" terminal on the back panel, again, SOMEHOW.

 

[ynnek4]

I guess it boils down to the Blue wire and the Positive lead to the tweeter. It looks like your tweeter has color coded leads, one Red, for Positive, and one Black, for Negative. Correct? Older KLH stuff wasn't consistent like that and the Positive lead would be identified by a knot tied in the wire. Really. Anyway, the Blue wire from the switch should be attached to one side of a non-polarized 8uf capacitor and the Positive lead to the tweeter should be attached to the other side of the capacitor. The Negative lead to the tweeter should be attached to the Negative Black wires SOMEHOW.

Here's the rub - there are SOME Black wires in your nest that aren't Negative leads. The Inductor (the round deal screwed to the cabinet) has a Red wire going into it from the "+" terminal on the back panel and a Black wire leaving it. THIS Black wire needs to be attached to the Positive side of the woofer, hence the wire nut attaching it to the Red wire going to the woofer. The Negative side of the woofer has a Black wire going to it that should be attached to the "-" terminal on the back panel, again, SOMEHOW.

Thanks again for your help. Here are some pics of where the inducter wires go in each speaker. They appear to match, at least. I can also deduce that the 8.0 cap should be at the end of the blue wire coming off the plate but I can’t figure out what other wire should be twisted on to the other end. One speaker has the gray zip cord (it has a black stripe on it), and the other has a red wire. Would that be considered a zip cord as well?

 

[ynnek4]

Also, here are two videos I took of each speaker showing the wiring. Thanks.

KLH - Google Drive

drive.google.com

 

[ynnek4]

One more question: The blue cable coming off the plate goes to one end of the 8.0 cap, and the other wire that goes to the other end of the 8.0 cap is which color tweeter wire? From this angle, would it be the left or right wire? One is black and the other is red. I have attached two pics of both speaker tweeters facing up towards them.

I apologize for all sudden questions. I am sort of right in the middle of attempting the recap.

Thanks.

 

[tgmartin]

1) Blue wire to 8uf cap. Other end of 8uf cap to Red wire of tweeter.
2) Black wire from inductor to Red wire of woofer.
3) Black wire of woofer, Black wire of tweeter, Black wire from plate, all connected together.