Marantz 2240

S

Stark

I know absolutely nothing
Hi,

Got a 2240 today, pretty happy to get such a nice piece. :banana:

My question is I see 2240B mentioned all the time, but not so much the 2240. What is the difference between the two? Is one better than the other? Newer? Rarer? More valuable? More desirable?

Anything I should think about doing to this unit? I haven't powered it up yet, gonna crack it open and look and see if everything looks OK inside.

Thanks :D
 
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The Model 2240 was made in 1974, the 2240B in 1976. I've seen more of the B model than the plain 2240. They have the same looks and are equally desirable. The main difference is that the B model amp section has a higher damping factor (ability to "control" a speaker) and lower total harmonic distortion. So, on paper, the B model would be better sounding, but that's only by the stats. Just give it a good look inside to check for damaged parts, give it a good Deoxit job on all the pots and switches. In the future, you'll want to get it recapped. The 2240 is a good receiver, well worth a full restoration. If you have any problems with it, there's lots of helpful experts here on the forum. Let's see some pics of it! :thmbsp:
 
I have both and can't distinguish between them from a listener's POV.

If it works well after a clean up, then just enjoy it. If and when it starts to give you any trouble (this vintage gear is vintage, after all) then you can worry about the appropriate re-cap.

And yes, there are lots of people here who will chip in to assist with whatever questions you might have.

Good luck !
 
Thanks guys. :D

Anyone know where I can get a tuning needle pointer thing? This one was broken off.

Also what about stencils to replace some of the writing? The letters on the input selector are worn off for AM and FM.

Thanks.
 
You will sometimes see a tuning pointer on Ebay, or you can post a wanted ad in the classifieds here on AK. As far as the writing, I don't know. There was a thread here on AK where a member redid an entire faceplate, you could try to search for it.
 
Any idea what keywords to use? do you remember the brand at least? searching here can be difficult at times, even using google. :D
 
For the tuning needles, just be sure to look carefully at the picture of whatever you might think of buying. There are probably several models that used the same tuning needle but there are quite a number of different needles too.
 
OK, so it looks like I am going to need a few parts for this unit.

1. I need some bulbs, the Stereo indicator, the tuning needle bulb, and a few other dial backlight bulbs, so probably best to do them all. Correct? Looking around there appears to be two ways to go, an NOS route, and an LED route, any thoughts on those? and who should I talk to.

2. A tuning needle, I have the old one, is this the sort of thing that can be repaired or just time to move on to a new one?

3. Stenciling for the AM FM Tape selection knob, still have not found the thread. :(

4. Front hex screws, they were taken off poorly by someone else, and that also damaged the faceplate around the screws a little. Can that be sanded out of the faceplate? Any NOS aluminum bolts?

5. The diffuser paper is yellow, is this worth replacing with the $6 sheets I have seen?

I am going to clean the contacts now and see if I can get it working nicely at least.

Thanks. :D
 
1) AKer dgwojo has all of your lamps. Or, contact whsh93a for LEDs.
2) yes, it can be glued back together. Use a methylene chloride based, liquid model cement.
3)You'll just have to improvise.:D
4)Don't sand on the faceplate, you'll only make it worse, as it is anodized. The screws come up on the 'bay fairly often, or you could replace yours with stainless.
5) Yes, replace the vellum. Your tuning dial will be blue again.
 
Excellent, thank you, I will contact those AKers.

What is your opinion on the lamps, NOS or LED?

I cannot seem to get into all the pots, any ideas? I have the top, bottom and faceplate off, seems like I should have something else off to get into the bulbs and switches.

:D
 
I love the LEDs for the tuning dial, but I still use incandescants for the function lamps.

There is a screw on either end of the lamp housing, that when removed, allow it to be pulled away from the tuning dial. To change the vellum, gently peel the tuning dial off the light frame.
 
I was able to get into the lights, and it looks like another fun soldering job for a noob like me. I also had to take off the dial face, so the dial lamps will be easy. I think someone clueless was in this thing at one time. I got it from the original owner who bought it in 76 and I don't think it was him. There is glue everywhere inside as well as on the rim where the dial meets the outside. Also the white clips that should hold in the lights are long gone, probably snapped off by the last person to change bulbs. I also know why the tuning needle snapped off. Whoever was in there last did not tighten a screw at the top right behind the faceplate, that cause the dial display to sit up at the right and as you turn the dial to the right side t gets closer and closer until it falls off. I put the needle in and replicated it, without gluing it of course, so I had to take the face off to get that screw tightened. I will take this opportunity to put in new paper too.

Whoever was in there last was a little heavy handed, here's hoping I do a better job.

Now I need to figure out how to get at all the pots and switches behind the front cover for the deoxit and gold.

Cheers!
 
Check out the yellow LEDs in my receiver for the indicator lamps at "Vintage Electronics Restoration Service", the blue banner in the sponsors at the bottom of the page. Mine's the Outstanding 2235B in the photo album. I'd go all LED, never need to solder any lamps again. Just take off the bottom cover for easy access to the pots and switches. You will see the reddish bodies of the switches, there's a little hole with a white piece in it, shoot the Deoxit there. I like to use Faderlube in my pots and switches too.
 
Deoxit Gold is for protecting external metal surfaces, like RCA jacks. It's not for use inside pots and switches, use the Faderlube for that.
 
OK I will get some Faderlube for inside, thanks!

Had a look at your link, looks awesome, do you know where the LED's were source from? Were they from the member here?
 
My 2235B was restored by Tom (Catrafter here on AK), he used the LEDs from AKer whsh93a, I think he was already recommended in this thread. White is the original color, if you noticed, but my 2235B had yellow indicators from the vellum, but I liked it so I had Tom put in yellow LEDs. Sort of unique, and I hear a few people are requesting yellow now.
 
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