Soldering Iron Thermometer – Suggestions Needed

[Rasputin47]

My wife just bought me my first soldering station.:thmbsp:

It is a variable temperature model and they recommend that the temperature be calibrated to 400C/750F before use and after changing tips.

What good quality and affordable soldering iron thermometers should I consider buying?

Also, what temperature should I use for working on pc boards?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Jon_Logan]

Does the iron have a temperature readout? How is calibration carried out?

If the temperature is not controlled by the iron, itself, it's probably just a heater element throwing watts at the hunk of copper that forms the tip.

For measuring the actual temperature, by external means, it's usually done with a bead type thermocouple, where the tip would be pressed on the thermocouple all done on some high temp material that doesn't absorb heat well.

$100?? I don't have any ideas.

I like to set my iron (temperature controlled) to between 750~800 (deg. F). It allows you to go in and out fast. High temp is not a friend to components, but sustained, lower temperatures are not good either. I prefer hot and fast.

 

[Rasputin47]

The station is a Hakko 936 which has a dial for temperature but no readout.

The instructions say to set the temperature to 750F then use a thermometer to check the temp at the tip. There is a screw adjustment on the base to set the temperature.

I'm new to stations but I expected it to be factory calibrated and ready to go :scratch2:

 

[Jon_Logan]

I use a Hakko. Been loving it for 20+ years. I've never had to calibrate the temp. I would just Plug-n-Play.

I believe that if there is no knob to control the temperature, with that model, the temperature would be set by the tip used. I might be wrong though. It could be indifferent to the tip used and just rely on the trimpot setting to set the temp.

I think it's (the temp) probably in the right neighborhood. I'd trust the factory cal until something told me it was very wrong.

Hakko's good stuff.

<edit> Ahh, the knob markings are vague anyway. The knob calibrations will be close enough. One note. I said I like to have the temp around 750~800 deg. F. When you're done with a soldering flurry, turn the temp down to ~400, then crank it to 750~800 when you want to start soldering. This will keep the tip in better condition (tinned and less corroded).

 

[js1138]

Just because I have one, I tried a "laser" infrared thermometer, which I bought for cooking. It can't read the tip temperature, but it can read the shaft where the heating element is.

 

[Rasputin47]

<edit> Ahh, the knob markings are vague anyway. The knob calibrations will be close enough. One note. I said I like to have the temp around 750~800 deg. F. When you're done with a soldering flurry, turn the temp down to ~400, then crank it to 750~800 when you want to start soldering. This will keep the tip in better condition (tinned and less corroded).

Thanks, I will try that it sounds like good advice.

I wonder how well or if the unit was factory calibrated - the fact that the manual says check the temp before using it got me thinking.

 

[Rasputin47]

Just because I have one, I tried a "laser" infrared thermometer, which I bought for cooking. It can't read the tip temperature, but it can read the shaft where the heating element is.

I wondered if one of the infrared thermometers might work, but perhaps the tip is too small a surface for it to read from.

 

[Jon_Logan]

I wondered if one of the infrared thermometers might work, but perhaps the tip is too small a surface for it to read from.

Yes, I think that would be a problem.

 

[sxty8goats]

Just because I have one, I tried a "laser" infrared thermometer, which I bought for cooking. It can't read the tip temperature, but it can read the shaft where the heating element is.

Those type of infra-red, laser targeted thermo's don't like shinny, lightly colored targets. I used to use them back when I did a lot of experimental plastic extrusion. I often had to paint a spot on components I was testing to get accurate readings.

 

[basite]

Also, what temperature should I use for working on pc boards?

bear in mind that pc boards (in pc's) are mostly silver solder, which requires a higher solder temp.
in most vintage audio, they use lead. Lead requires a lower soldering temperature (between 320 and 370° CELCIUS). You can of course go higher, but remember that if you heat up the contact too long on a print board/pc board, the trace can lift.

I prefer working with solder, and most of the time I work around 350°C, but I use very fine solder, this works fine for me on both prints as loose components.

oh, and IMHO, the dial is good enough, I'd just plug and play , it's also a matter of how long you take to go in and out...

Keep them spinning,
Bert.

 

[glen65]

The station is a Hakko 936 which has a dial for temperature but no readout.

The instructions say to set the temperature to 750F then use a thermometer to check the temp at the tip. There is a screw adjustment on the base to set the temperature.

I'm new to stations but I expected it to be factory calibrated and ready to go :scratch2:

It is,
In the manual they recommend calibration when replacing the
heating element or the whole iron. As far as checking the tip temp
is concerned, here's something that looks real promising.

https://www.tempil.com/products/tempilaq-indicating-liquids/
https://www.tempil.com/products/tempilstik-original/

I'm probably going to use one of these myself because
the element doesn't look too good on mine, and I will need
something to see if the temp is correct. Since it leaves
a film the tip it will need cleaned in a solvent. Acetone should
do the trick. I'm not going to order it directly from the site
because I seen a better deal from a distributor. For example
the stick can be purchased from some places without having to
buy it in a lot of 10.

Just curious where did you get a new 936? They stopped making
that model.

 

[hrballenger]

We used Weller WA2000's at work to test the soldering stations, but those are a bit pricey for casual use.

 

[BinaryMike]

I bought a low-end dual thermocouple thermometer for that purpose, because I can also use it for accurate differential temp measurements across devices mounted on heatsinks, for instance.

 

[babblefish]

I have a Hakko 926 that's over 20 years old and I've never calibrated it even after replacing the heating element. Actually, I didn't know you had to. I've used this old girl for so long and so often now that I can guesstimate where to set the dial for whatever I'm soldering. And in my experience, it's better to have it too hot than too cold. If it's too cold, one could fry things by leaving the tip touching whatever it is you're soldering for too long while waiting for the solder to flow.

 

[glen65]

I have a Hakko 926 that's over 20 years old and I've never calibrated it even after replacing the heating element. Actually, I didn't know you had to. I've used this old girl for so long and so often now that I can guesstimate where to set the dial for whatever I'm soldering. And in my experience, it's better to have it too hot than too cold. If it's too cold, one could fry things by leaving the tip touching whatever it is you're soldering for too long while waiting for the solder to flow.

Neither one are any good.
That's the main reason temp controlled stations are recommended
to begin with.

 

[babblefish]

Neither one are any good.
That's the main reason temp controlled stations are recommended
to begin with.

Well, when I say "too hot", I don't mean red hot. I've been soldering both professionally and as a hobby for more years than I care to remember, so I'm able to get in-and-out before any damage occurs. YMMV.

 

[glen65]

Well, when I say "too hot", I don't mean red hot. I've been soldering both professionally and as a hobby for more years than I care to remember, so I'm able to get in-and-out before any damage occurs. YMMV.

I wasn't trying to be sarcastic.
To put my point another way, if you can't rely
on the temp setting being accurate then it defeats the purpose of having the
temp marked or displayed on the station to begin with, which at least in part
defeats the purpose of owning it.

 

[babblefish]

I wasn't trying to be sarcastic. Neither was I.
To put my point another way, if you can't rely
on the temp setting being accurate then it defeats the purpose of having the
temp marked or displayed on the station to begin with, which at least in part
defeats the purpose of owning it. Agreed. No argument from me...

---

 

[Rasputin47]

It is,
In the manual they recommend calibration when replacing the
heating element or the whole iron.

What threw me is that, the manual also recommends calibrating the unit when you change tips as well - and it came with a second larger tip.

However after a bit more research, it seems that only some of the heavy duty and special tips run at a +/- temperature when used. The more common tips that I am likely to use are interchangeable with no temp change.

As far as checking the tip temp
is concerned, here's something that looks real promising.

https://www.tempil.com/products/tempilaq-indicating-liquids/

Thanks for the link, that does look like an interesting and inexpensive solution.

 

[westend]

I use a Hakko 936 and your wife should be commended about her choice of irons!
I have it parked at about 725-750 for mounting components on PCB. Calibrated temp is irrelevant as I could obliterate the dial and still use it, just rotate up for those bigger soldering/desoldering jobs and back down to usual when I'm done. I don't use the newer lead-free solders or do SMD work so my life with the Hakko is pretty simple.