paperboy117

I read over this a few times and believe i know what to do, I do have an extra pair of x-overs i had bought for the l80t back about a year ago, and looked it over while reading your message.. soon as i get a pair of 4311wxa caps redone this weekend, I'll start looking at the l80 project.... I wanted to say thanks for the info, for me, it's been kinda hard to come by info on the l80t...that's why started reading here..... I've done cornwalls x-overs recently, this weekend i'm doing the jbl4311 x-overs... then l80t's , kinda making sure all my speakers are up to specs..... I had kinda been looking at another pair of speakers, but decieded to spend the money on what i already have....
thanks craig h
bruce

Last one is the long narrow coil which is L3. You can work the epoxy loose with a razor blade and unsolder the leads and remove it. This coil needs to be unwound slightly till you get a reading of 0.8mh down from 1.0mh. Scrape,check and reinstall and you are finished. The last thing I did is use a large dog food can, removed the label,washed it thoroughly and cut it in half to make it about 3 inches.. I added a little duct tape to the port inside to make the can fit snug over on the end of the port tube and lengthened it by about 1.5 inches. Left the fiberglass padding inside the cabinet stock as experimentation with more or less yielded poor results. I get great sound now, less in your face but clean and tons of bass.

Get as close as you can to 2.6 with your mh reading, cut it,scrape it and reinstall the coil. Check the measurement in circuit. You can always solder and add on more wire or remove more for fine tuning but in the ball park should be good.I simply put a drop or two of super glue to hold the spool back down on the board after it was soldered back in. There is one more that you have to add on wire to. The black spool with the nut on top is L2. Remove the nut and screw and desolder the spool. Using the same method as for L1, add magnet wire in the spool to raise your reading to 0.6 from 0.5 .This won't take as much wire as L1. Scrape and take readings and cut and solder back in the board. Re install the screw and nut. Doing one crossover at a time allows you to check to make sure you install the coils back in place like the stock.

You need to get a LCR inductance meter for the coils. I got one on ebay for ten bucks and it works great. Touch the leads of each end of the coil to get the mh readings. Most accurate is with the coils pulled out of circuit. The parts supply sells 20 gauge coated magnet wire for about 8 bucks for more than enough for the changes. The large coil on the plastic is L1 and affects the bass. Remove the tie down and desolder and pull it out. Scrape the loose end of the coil with a razor blade to clear the coating and place a small bead of solder. Do the same with the end of your new wire and then fuse the ends together and you are ready to start wrapping more wire on L1. Wrap around a couple feet or so and scrape some coating off to take a reading. This is suppose to go up from the stock 2.2 to 3.0 but I took wire back off in tests and settled on 2.6 and have great bass.

The only other cap change is the yellow mylar one which is not changed in the pic. Remove the yellow 3 uf mylar and replace it with a 4 uf mylar. Simply heat the solder on the circuit board and pull them out. You should cut and bend the wires on the new caps to fit snug.Line them up in the holes, heat the solder bead and push the wire down into the board making sure you get good connection. Do one at a time.(2 wires for each cap). Once you replace these three caps then you are done with the capacitor changes. If you find a supply store near you then bring a crossover in to show them what you want to replace. .There are five white 10 watt resistors on the board and two will need to be switched out.Leave the 39 20 and 15 ohm in place. Pull the 3.9 and the 1.2 and put the 3.9 in the spot where the 1.2 was. The only new one you need is a 2.5 ohm 10 watt and I could only find a 2.7. Close enough.Put the new one in where the 3.9 was and you are done with the resistor changes.

Hi. This will be a step by step for one crossover and when done you can repeat the steps on the second one. If you look at the photo on the bottom that I posted you can see the 2 silver colored capacitors. I would start with removing the two stock blue ones(14uf and 17uf) and then replace with 9uf non polarized capacitors on each one. I could only find 10 uf which are the silver ones but close enough. I found an electronics store called ORVAC near me that had everything I needed for cheap money. You could go with higher end caps but these seemed to work fine for me. Check for a good electronics part supply near you or order therm on line. Even Radio Shack has these.

Yes. I am getting ready to turn in tonight but tomorrow I'll go over what I did . I'm really happy with the sound I'm getting from my l80t. Talk to you tomorrow, Craig