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When you say "re-cap" how many caps are we talking about?

whitecastle

Partial to Pioneer
I'm pretty green around here, so forgive the noob questions. :D

When people talk about re-capping, say for an AMP, is there a defined set of certain caps that get replaced, or are people replacing literally all the caps in the device?

Through various posts, I've been able to surmise that re-capping projects fall into 3 categories:

  1. Main power caps
  2. All Audio caps
  3. replacing specific problem caps to address an issue

Would this be an accurate understanding? If one wanted to improve the sound and extend the life of their AMP, would 1 & 2 be required, or is just 1 ok?

Thoughts?
 
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All electrolytic caps only, there are other types that do not present aging problems and are left alone.
Basically all the caps constructed with aluminum cans and rubber (or epoxy) seals, which are water based and dry out.
Also there are the tantalum and solid aluminum electrolytic caps which have a different appearance and a different chemistry but still a problem.
 
Thanks for the replies.

So there isn't really any advantage to just replacing some caps and not all?

Ultimately, I want to bring my SA-8800 up to date, but I might work up to it by practicing on some old boards, then maybe move on to my SA-7500 and 8500. Sort of work my way up to it.

I wonder if anywhere sells "Cap Packs" by amp with all the right ones! That would be handy, but probably not since this stuff is so obscure.

Are there any handy resources for Cap Listings?
 
Try some advanced google searching on this forum. MarkTheFixer and others have posted many complete recap lists including Mouser part numbers for the replacements. Then it is as easy as copying and pasting that information into the Mouser EZ Buy 'BOM import tool' which lets you paste in the list of part numbers.


If you are not familiar with advanced google searching, here is an example to specifically search Audiokarma.org where the words 'search terms' indicate what you want to search.

site:audiokarma.org search terms

If you don't find any lists there, the cap lists are readily available in the service manuals. From the service manual, you can then extrapolate all of the caps (and their associated designations and values) that you want to replace into a list. Then you can look search these forums for viable replacements or pick them yourself if you have the knowledge of how to do so. Paying attention to the type designations is also important, i.e. czsa, cea, ceanl, etc.

The 'tuning fork' guide addressing capacitors is must read as well if you haven't already done so. Here is a link:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=249745


To address your question of partial vs full recap... even a partial recap can be beneficial, especially if you are replacing the capacitors in know problem / heat areas where they are most likely to be dried out / leaking / bulging or otherwise not functioning to their proper factory specs.
 
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I looked, no 8800 lists..

talk him through making a

aaa-999 c1 10uf 50v ceanl

bbb-888 c3 10uf 25v csza

type list and I'll try to get to it if mattsd doesn't beat me...
 
It looks like Mark has already checked for existing lists for the SA-8800 and found none. You will need a service manual so you can make a list. If you don't have one and can't find one, PM me and I will point you in the right direction. In the service manual there are 'parts list' pages that list every part by board. You need to go through them and make a list by board. As stated previously, you are only concerned with electrolytic caps. Then post the information here in the following format:

'Board' 'Symbol' 'Capacitance' 'Voltage' 'Letter code from part number'

An example from an SX-1980 power supply board would look like:

AWR-154 c211 100uf 16v cea
 
All electrolytic caps only, there are other types that do not present aging problems and are left alone.
Basically all the caps constructed with aluminum cans and rubber (or epoxy) seals, which are water based and dry out.
Also there are the tantalum and solid aluminum electrolytic caps which have a different appearance and a different chemistry but still a problem.

This, plus some of the early (Mostly tube) Japanese units used oil caps that at this age like to explode for no apparent reason. Disc caps are not often an issue. if you insist on changing these as well, I'd only worry about the ones that are off of the main audio path, which for the uninitiated can be very tricky to follow.
 
I've dug up a manual from hifi-engine. I'll get cracking and create a list.

Surprising that no one would keep track of them - perhaps we can start a repository.

Got another question for you guys - Last night I was repairing the power cable in my SG-9800 and was looking at the caps inside it - most of them are all clear plastic with no metal tops. Some look in poor shape and dried out with yellow coloring at the top, but most were fine.

What kind of caps are these?
 
I've dug up a manual from hifi-engine. I'll get cracking and create a list.

Surprising that no one would keep track of them - perhaps we can start a repository.

Got another question for you guys - Last night I was repairing the power cable in my SG-9800 and was looking at the caps inside it - most of them are all clear plastic with no metal tops. Some look in poor shape and dried out with yellow coloring at the top, but most were fine.

What kind of caps are these?

Repository is this forum, and my notes / spreadsheets.

Probably: (need pictures for deeper investigation) Silvery plastic caps are hi stability, high accuracy, low tolerance polystyrene caps. They are VERY finicky about having their leads heated up to soldering temperatures - it can ruin them through melting, so the leads are always heat sinked with a GOOD clamp on heat sink.

cea capacitor electrolytic radial leads
ccdsl capacitor ceramic disk
ccssl typo?
ckdyf ceramic disk cap with high dielectric constant y temp f -80+30%
cqma capacitor mylar radial leads
cqpa polypropolyene film capacitor radial leads
cqsh capacitor polystyrene radial leads with insulator mount

edit- saw an internal sg-9800 picture, those ARE polystyrene caps, usualkly find them in Phono/equalizer amps to set the RIAA curve accurately and KEEP the curve stable...
 
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looked, no 8800 lists..

talk him through making a

aaa-999 c1 10uf 50v ceanl

bbb-888 c3 10uf 25v csza

type list and I'll try to get to it if mattsd doesn't beat me...

It's coming! :D Should be up tomorrow, as I am making it from scratch.
 
Here it is, this has some of the most interesting caps I've run into since I started doing cap lists, couple of the ones that stand out is one 470uF and two 2200uF Bi-polar caps! Look it over, Mark, and tell me what you think!

EQ Assembly (GWF-113)

GWF-113: C3: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWF-113: C4: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWF-113: C5: 22uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V220MDD 22uF 35v
GWF-113: C6: 22uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V220MDD 22uF 35v
GWF-113: C7: 22uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V220MDD 22uF 35v
GWF-113: C8: 22uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V220MDD 22uF 35v
GWF-113: C19: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
GWF-113: C20: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
GWF-113: C21: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
GWF-113: C22: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
GWF-113: C29: 4.7uF 25v Non Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWF-113: C30: 4.7uF 25v Non Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWF-113: C31: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
GWF-113: C32: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
GWF-113: C35: 2200uF 6.8v Non-Polar: 647-UVP1A222MHD 2200uF 10v
GWF-113: C36: 2200uF 6.8v Non-Polar: 647-UVP1A222MHD 2200uF 10v

TC Assembly (GWG-122)

GWG-122: C7: 1uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H010MDD 1uF 50v
GWG-122: C8: 1uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H010MDD 1uF 50v
GWG-122: C9: 10uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
GWG-122: C10: 10uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
GWG-122: C19: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWG-122: C20: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWG-122: C57: 22uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
GWG-122: C58: 22uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v

PA Assembly (GWH-115)

GWH-115: C31: 47uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
GWH-115: C32: 47uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
GWH-115: C33: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
GWH-115: C34: 4.7uF 25v Non-Polar: 647-UEP1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v

Indicator Assembly (AWV-001)

AWV-001: C3: 1uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H010MDD 1uF 50v
AWV-001: C4: 1uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H010MDD 1uF 50v
AWV-001: C5: 2.2uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H2R2MDD 2.2uF 50v
AWV-001: C6: 2.2uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H2R2MDD 2.2uF 50v
AWV-001: C9: 47uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E470MDD 47uF 25v
AWV-001: C10: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1E470MDD 47uF 25v
AWV-001: C11: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWV-001: C12: 47uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1E470MDD 47uF 25v
AWV-001: C13: 2.2uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H2R2MDD 2.2uF 50v

Power Supply Assembly (AWR-182)

AWR-182: C9: 220uF 80v CEA: 647-UHE2A221MHD 220uF 100v
AWR-182: C10: 220uF 80v CEA: 647-UHE2A221MHD 220uF 100v
AWR-182: C13: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1A101MDD6 100uF 10v
AWR-182: C14: 47uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
AWR-182: C15: 47uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J470MPD 47uF 63v
AWR-182: C18: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWR-182: C19: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWR-182: C22: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWR-182: C23: 1uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW2A010MDD 1uF 100v
AWR-182: C24: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWR-182: C25: 470uF 6.8v Non-Polar: 647-UES1C471MHM 470uF 16v

BOM List

647-UPW1A101MDD6 | 5
647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA | 1
647-UPW1H470MED | 5
647-UPW1H010MDD | 4
647-UEP1V4R7MDD | 8
647-UPW1E101MED | 1
647-UKL1E100KDDANA | 2
647-UPW1V220MDD | 4
647-UKL1V220KEDANA | 2
647-UVP1A222MHD | 2
647-UPW1J470MPD | 4
647-UPW2A010MDD | 1
647-UPW1E470MDD | 3
647-UPW1H2R2MDD | 3
647-UHE2A221MHD | 2
647-UES1C471MHM | 1

All were confirmed to be in stock at the time of this post.
 
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