Pioneer sx-636...could use some help

randallflag · May 27, 2011

This is my first piece of vintage gear and frankly I love the little guy. I've always been a fan of pioneer and picked it up for almost nothing. First thing I noticed was it was in pretty good cosmetic condition. The face was very good...dirty...nicotine...smoke, but good. The bonnet as well was free from scratches with the exception of one little one. I've cleaned up the outside as best I can and now want to turn my attention to the internals.

As you can see all the lamps are working ect. It is functional for the most part but am interested in recapping and possibly replacing bad transistors not only for longevity sake but also to gain experience on a unit that is not super valuable in terms of money.

I have spent several weeks reading the service manual and exploring the unit. I have tried following along this other thread...http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=327054
here and paid very close attention to the information being given by the very knowledgable markthefixer. Identifiying the internals and following along with the mentioned parts referencing them in my schematic was a very helpful and informational to say the least. I would be most appreciative if mark or anyone else in the know on this unit could help me out and walk me through some of this.

I have a decent fluke mm(15b) and a respectable weller station so i'm pretty set for equiptment. My soldering skills are getting better, still kinda slow, but improving.

As for the unit I have noticed any drastic problems, ive already deoxit'd and lubed all the controls. One thing I have noticed is that when powering on after its been sitting for awhile is there is a crackling that I believe is coming for the ampboard. Without speakers attached you can hear it...very faint but its there. I can't tell if its left, right or both. With speakers attached its very audible but seems to taper off completely are warming up.

I don't want a hand out but help coming up with a parts list for mouser and any insight into getting this little guy running factory again would be great. I take instruction well and am eager to learn. Thanks in advance.

Oerets · May 27, 2011

Welcome to AK , I will give you a friendly bunp ....

Have you cleaned the fuses and the holders yet , sometimes they can be dirty and cause a static sound .
The power supply might also be needing a recap or a transistor on the PS board.

Hopefully some others will jump in who are more familiar with you unit .

Barney

randallflag · May 27, 2011

Oerets said:
Welcome to AK , I will give you a friendly bunp ....

Have you cleaned the fuses and the holders yet , sometimes they can be dirty and cause a static sound .
The power supply might also be needing a recap or a transistor on the PS board.

Hopefully some others will jump in who are more familiar with you unit .

Barney

Thanks for the bump, :thmbsp:

I have not cleaned the fuses and holders, I will do so. I did a visual and checked them with my mm and they are ok. I'll give them a rubdown though for good measure.

fabchef · May 27, 2011

Randall..congrats and welcome to the forum! Nice gear BTW...i have the slightly "bigger brother" ..the 737. I love this thing! i just got it about a week ago or so at a recyling center for $40.00 not too bad i think? gave it a good cleaning, all the pots and switches too (have to do another pass). All works except the liiiitle light for the tuner station pointer..not sure if i'll do it right now.
I really like the blue face on it...i have a few "silver face" receivers but i find i prefer the blue.

just wondering...how did you get the front face off it? top and bottom screws?

my advice..if it's running well, let it run!
i 've been playing some old records through this and sound amazing!
g'luck and enjoy it!
fab

markthefixer · May 28, 2011

see those two round cased shiny transistors on the power amp circuit board?

Those are the dreaded 2sc1451's. They will be replaced,

A few other transistors (2sa725,2sa726) as well, and any little sky blue capacitors. Then you should be in good shape.

randallflag · May 28, 2011

markthefixer said:
see those two round cased shiny transistors on the power amp circuit board?

Those are the dreaded 2sc1451's. They will be replaced,

A few other transistors (2sa725,2sa726) as well, and any little sky blue capacitors. Then you should be in good shape.

Thanks for the response mark. Just to confirm your above information you would recommend these be replaced.

Gleaning from your thread mentioned in my first post could you confirm these transistors from mouser. I realize the original post is from 2010 and parts/availability may have changed.

Q5+Q6 2SC1451 = KSC3503's, 512-KSC3503ESTU to-126 ecb 300v .1a 1.2/7w 150mhz 40-320hfe

I'm a little confused about the 2sa725's and 2sa726's :dunno:

as they are mentioned in various places in the service manual.

725
TA(AWE-046-0)
Q8 Transistor 2SA763P-5 or 6,(2SA725-F or G)
Q9 Transistor 2SA763P-5 or 6,(2SA725-F or G)

726
AF Amp (AWK-035-0)
Q1 Transistor 2SA726-F or G
Q2 Transistor 2SA726-F or G

PA Amp (AWH-034-0)
Q1 Transistor 2SA763F-6 or 5,(2SA726-F or G)
Q2 Transistor 2SA763F-6 or 5,(2SA726-F or G)
Q3 Transistor 2SA763F-6 or 5,(2SA726-F or G)(2SA640-K or L)
Q4 Transistor 2SA763F-6 or 5,(2SA726-F or G)(2SA640-K or L)

Since your post focused on (AWH-034-0) should I assume you were talking about Q1-Q4 in which case.

Q1-Q4 2SA726 = 512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe

and...since im in there....

AWH-034-0 Cap List
awh-034 c1 0.33 25 cssa 0.33 50 598-DSF050J334
awh-034 c2 0.33 25 cssa 0.33 50 598-DSF050J334
awh-034 c7 220 6 cea 220 10 647-UPW1A221MED
awh-034 c8 220 6 cea 220 10 647-UPW1A221MED
awh-034 c9 47 35 cea 47 35 647-UPW1V470MED1TD
awh-034 c10 47 35 cea 47 35 647-UPW1V470MED1TD

randallflag · May 28, 2011

fabchef said:
just wondering...how did you get the front face off it? top and bottom screws?

A few screws and 2 thin bolts??? w/ washers on the, I believe the bass and function knobs. Be careful taking them off so you don't scratch the face.

markthefixer · May 28, 2011

those are all potential locations for them, you have to eyeball them to see if they are 725/726, or just plan on doing them all anyway.

the ksa992 is superior to both the 725/6 and the a763, but the a763 isn't a troublemaker iiac.

the companion ksc1845 can also be added (subbed for the "c" transistors) to turn the preventative replacement to a performance upgrade.

sort of like doing two versus all 4 tires.

of course it can turn into a slippery slope...

randallflag · May 29, 2011

markthefixer said:
those are all potential locations for them, you have to eyeball them to see if they are 725/726, or just plan on doing them all anyway.

the ksa992 is superior to both the 725/6 and the a763, but the a763 isn't a troublemaker iiac.

the companion ksc1845 can also be added (subbed for the "c" transistors) to turn the preventative replacement to a performance upgrade.

sort of like doing two versus all 4 tires.

of course it can turn into a slippery slope...

I appreciate your direction mark and your quick replies...I realize your busy. I'm gonna go slow and work one board at a time to avoid confusing myself.

Suppose I felt like diving down that slope face first and wanted to go all out...:yes:... where exactly am I subbing those ksc1845's, q7+8?

(AWH-034-0)
Q1--512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe
Q2--512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe
Q3--512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe
Q4--512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe

Q5--512-KSC3503estu to-126 ecb 300v .1a 1.2/7w 150mhz 40-320hfe
Q6--512-KSC3503estu to-126 ecb 300v .1a 1.2/7w 150mhz 40-320hfe

Q7--?
Q8--?

Q9 --512-KSA1013YBU to-92L ecb 160v 1a .9w 50mhz 160-320hfe ?
Q10--512-KSA1013YBU to-92L ecb 160v 1a .9w 50mhz 160-320hfe ?

Q11--863-MJ21194G npn to-3 250v 16/30A 250W 8-75hfe 4mhz ?
Q12--863-MJ21194G npn to-3 250v 16/30A 250W 8-75hfe 4mhz ?

Q13--863-MJ21193G pnp to-3 250v 16/30A 250W 8-75hfe 4mhz ?
Q14--863-MJ21193G pnp to-3 250v 16/30A 250W 8-75hfe 4mhz ?

Caps:
awh-034 c1 0.33 25 cssa 0.33 50 598-DSF050J334
awh-034 c2 0.33 25 cssa 0.33 50 598-DSF050J334
awh-034 c7 220 6 cea 220 10 647-UPW1A221MED
awh-034 c8 220 6 cea 220 10 647-UPW1A221MED
awh-034 c9 47 35 cea 47 35 647-UPW1V470MED1TD
awh-034 c10 47 35 cea 47 35 647-UPW1V470MED1TD

markthefixer · May 29, 2011

recap and retransistor the eq amp awf-014 (4x ksc1845) 4 ukl caps, 4 stacked film and 2 100uf upw caps for C5,6

awk-035 control amp q1,2=ksa992, q3,4,5,6=ksc1845, and it wouldn't hurt to just use ukl caps for everything but C9,10 (use upw there)

the tuner has too much risk versus reward, leave it be except for c59,60 use stacked film there and q8,9 to ksa992.

IF replacing ANY components on the tuner board entails removing the board to gain access to the solder connections, FORGET IT, and LEAVE IT LONE.

randallflag · May 31, 2011

markthefixer said:
recap and retransistor the eq amp awf-014 (4x ksc1845) 4 ukl caps, 4 stacked film and 2 100uf upw caps for C5,6

awk-035 control amp q1,2=ksa992, q3,4,5,6=ksc1845, and it wouldn't hurt to just use ukl caps for everything but C9,10 (use upw there)

the tuner has too much risk versus reward, leave it be except for c59,60 use stacked film there and q8,9 to ksa992.

IF replacing ANY components on the tuner board entails removing the board to gain access to the solder connections, FORGET IT, and LEAVE IT LONE.

I'm doing my best to follow your recommendations but I've never ordered from mouser before or used their search menu's. I think i've muddled thorugh it as best I can but frankly i'm starting to second guess myself while digging through their inventory...I could use a little hand holding here if you don't mind. Below is what I have come up with based on my interpretation of what your recommending. On most of the items i've included a direct mouser link to the component I intend to buy, when you have the time...im in no rush, give it a look over and feel free to slap me when neccessary

markthefixer · Jun 1, 2011

I wasn't tossing you in the deep end, just giving you a peek of the road ahead when I could get time to map it all out. That was the terse cliff notes version put there to let you know I'm working on it as time allows.

It will take me about the same amount to time to vet the above so have patience... I just was trying to forestall a premature parts order. It does look good at first glance, and also looks like a lot of work went into the post

(look at the time of this post - I should be cutting z's...., and this is after a rather nasty 8 hour bench session... it never seems like the EASY stuff hits my bench, only the obscure, down durty and nasty faults, kinda reminding me of the "u-verse beast" wire tangle on the tv commercials, ya gotta pull at ALL the tangled threads to tease out the fault, and it sure wouldn't hurt to document those ^*&^* semi-custom chips Pioneer made/used..... )

randallflag · Jun 1, 2011

markthefixer said:
I wasn't tossing you in the deep end, just giving you a peek of the road ahead when I could get time to map it all out. That was the terse cliff notes version put there to let you know I'm working on it as time allows.

It will take me about the same amount to time to vet the above so have patience... I just was trying to forestall a premature parts order. It does look good at first glance, and also looks like a lot of work went into the post

(look at the time of this post - I should be cutting z's...., and this is after a rather nasty 8 hour bench session... it never seems like the EASY stuff hits my bench, only the obscure, down durty and nasty faults, kinda reminding me of the "u-verse beast" wire tangle on the tv commercials, ya gotta pull at ALL the tangled threads to tease out the fault, and it sure wouldn't hurt to document those ^*&^* semi-custom chips Pioneer made/used..... )

The time of your post was the first thing I noticed..... :boring:

. I'm a patient guy and all I need to do is search your username to realize your working several threads at once...plus you obviously have your own projects going.

I did invest some time in that last post but referencing some of your former posts and forcing myself to trundle through mouser's website has had the benefit of making me feel slightly less lost as it's a little more familliar now. The quote below was helpful as it gave me a base reference on what general practices you follow but knowing exactly what X to sub for Y will take time to become proficent at.

Originally Posted by markthefixer
I have a rally to prepare for and help at tonight, so that list will be worked on tomorrow.

Cap rules of thumb (nichicon)

I use upw, uhe for general caps including signal coupling in that order depending upon stock "cea"
I use ues, uep & uvp in that order for bipolar depending on stock
I use ukl for low leakage caps (in sensitive areas they reduce the noise floor)"ceanl", "cssa", "csza"
0.1uf to 2 uf I use stacked film where they fit: DFS and ECQ

solid aluminum and tantalum caps get stacked film when possible, or ukl's otherwise. "cssa" "csza"

c?B means it's an axial cap = one lead on each end
c?a = radial = both leads on one end

searching at mouser:

easy..... need a 100uf cap? search on: 100uf UPW

then find your voltage and if stocked / in stock and possibly a size choice. go UP in voltage if your voltage is not available.

voila....

sub uhe, ukl, dfs, ecq etc for upw for the different type...

I won't be ordering anything until you get an opportunity to look things over so no need to worry about me rushing over anything...now get some sleep dammmit, im not going anywhere.

randallflag · Jun 13, 2011

Shameless self-bump, Its been a few weeks just wondering if you have had a chance to look this over mark?

Caminokid · Jun 13, 2011

I like mine. I got mine and it looked like it was just taken out of the box. I gave 40.00 for mine. I use it everyday here at the shop.

So did you get it figured out yet??

randallflag · Jun 13, 2011

Caminokid said:
I like mine. I got mine and it looked like it was just taken out of the box. I gave 40.00 for mine. I use it everyday here at the shop.

So did you get it figured out yet??

I'm waiting for another member to vet my parts order list before going ahead. I would hate to waste money buying the wrong components.

sregor · Jun 13, 2011

On your original problem - static during turn on. Have you eliminated the power switch itself as part of the problem? Do the lights on the receiver flicker at all on turn on? Although not common on this model, it is common with a lot of receivers of this era, especially low to middle power. The simplest way to check it would be to plug it into an outlet strip, turn the unit on and then power it on and off with the outlet strip switch. Slightly better would be to jumper the switch, but this should eliminate it as a problem. YMMV - good luck.

markthefixer · Jun 17, 2011

edit: I'm copying this to the top, so to set the tone of this post: (instead of setting a wrong tone)

Not a criticism, you did a LOT of work to set up a nice looking post. I admire the work that went into formatting and appearance, no less embedding the links. Not bad for a blind try, I should have dug up an old post as an example, but sigh, too much to do, so little time...

Update/finished off the amplifier parts - HEADS UP!! there were changes as well as additions!! Treat this as a COMPLETELY NEW LIST!!

randallflag said:
I appreciate your direction mark and your quick replies...I realize your busy. I'm gonna go slow and work one board at a time to avoid confusing myself.

Suppose I felt like diving down that slope face first and wanted to go all out...:yes:... where exactly am I subbing those ksc1845's, q7+8?

qx (was) -- to be>>>>>
(AWH-034-0)
Q1(2sa726)--512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe
Q2(2sa726)--512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe
Q3(2sa726)--512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe
Q4(2sa726)--512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe

Q5(2sc1451)--512-KSC3503estu to-126 ecb 300v .1a 1.2/7w 150mhz 40-320hfe
Q6(2sc1451)--512-KSC3503estu to-126 ecb 300v .1a 1.2/7w 150mhz 40-320hfe

Q7(2sc1509)--512-KSC2690AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe
Q8(2sc1509)--512-KSC2690AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe

Q9(2sa777) --512-KSA1220AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe
Q10(2sa777)--512-KSA1220AYS to-126 ecb 120/a160 1.2a 20w 155mhz 35-320hfe

Q11(2sd371)--863-MJ21194G npn to-3 250v 16/30A 250W 8-75hfe 4mhz ?
Q12(2sd371)--863-MJ21194G npn to-3 250v 16/30A 250W 8-75hfe 4mhz ?

Q13(2sb531)--863-MJ21193G pnp to-3 250v 16/30A 250W 8-75hfe 4mhz ?
Q14(2sb531)--863-MJ21193G pnp to-3 250v 16/30A 250W 8-75hfe 4mhz ?

Caps:
awh-034 c1 0.33 25 cssa 0.33 50 598-DSF050J334
awh-034 c2 0.33 25 cssa 0.33 50 598-DSF050J334
awh-034 c7 220 6 cea 220 10 647-UPW1A221MED
awh-034 c8 220 6 cea 220 10 647-UPW1A221MED
awh-034 c9 47 35 cea 47 35 647-UPW1V470MED1TD
awh-034 c10 47 35 cea 47 35 647-UPW1V470MED1TD

I'm pretty sure all the ordering codes are up to date. I didn't "check stock"...

as for the rest, there are changes inside, and it wasn't easy or fast...
in fact I gave up by the control amp and based on what I did check, you should be fine.

randallflag said:
I'm doing my best to follow your recommendations but I've never ordered from mouser before or used their search menu's. I think i've muddled thorugh it as best I can but frankly i'm starting to second guess myself while digging through their inventory...I could use a little hand holding here if you don't mind. Below is what I have come up with based on my interpretation of what your recommending. On most of the items i've included a direct mouser link to the component I intend to buy, when you have the time...im in no rush, give it a look over and feel free to slap me when neccessary

AWE-046-0 Tuner Board

Transistors

Q8+Q9, Transistor,512-KSA992FBU (ln)to-92 ecb 120v .05a .5w 100mhz 150-800hfe
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/KSA992FBU/?qs=ljbEvF4DwOM/Wn4YiHh6dw==

Caps

C59+60, 667-ECQ-V1H334JL, .33uf 50v
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMvOcEq4GH1AAh704sIKnYzlC3uYFIkS1P8=

AWE-014-0 EQ Amp Assembly

Transistors

Q1+Q2+Q3+Q4, Transistor, 512-KSC1845FTA
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtvtNzZ3W%2bLwIHffn9J1/d6TsDnxfJvPSY=

Caps

C1+C2, 647-UKL1H3R3MDD1TA
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cK9fic32uhgGwmp%2biHeHMk=

C3+C4, 667-ECQ-E1474KF
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMvOcEq4GH1AAsCHDlOl%2bACvSWXvGm01zmE=

C5+C6, 647-UPW1V101MPD1TD on order, this is more appropriate for the future too: use 647-UPW1V101MPD
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UPW1V101MPD1TD/?qs=wS6C3YOViFyI%2bP%2b4DY20Ew==

C11+C12, 647-UKL1C220KDDANATA (They did not have 10v in stock when I searched so I went 16v)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22bJsKyUmNJj1ccX9kNexCTY=

C13+C14, 667-ECQ-E1474KF these are 100v parts and you could have a hard time getting them into the available space, 50v parts 667-ECQ-V1H474JL would be a better fit.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMvOcEq4GH1AAsCHDlOl%2bACvSWXvGm01zmE=

AWK-035-0 Control Amp

Transistors

Q1+Q2, 512-KSA992FBU
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/KSA992FBU/?qs=ljbEvF4DwOM/Wn4YiHh6dw==

Q3+Q4+Q5+Q6, 512-KSC1845FTA
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtvtNzZ3W%2bLwIHffn9J1/d6TsDnxfJvPSY=

Caps

C5+C6, 647-UKL1H010KDDANA
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22RPm77sS3Lwxh6lVuNgK8LE=

C9+C10, 647-UPW1V101MPD1TD
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UPW1V101MPD1TD/?qs=wS6C3YOViFyI%2bP%2b4DY20Ew==

C13+C14+C21+C22+C23+C24, 647-UKL1E4R7KDDANA
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...iMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22U0HJIc3SC%2bo%2b%2b4F2XE9LSI=

C25+C26, 647-UKL1H2R2MDDANA
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cK9fic32uhgnf/2Ny8HdMo=

C27+C28, 647-UKL1A470KDDANATD
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cURos1IcPUp2xlmeh%2bZvSw=

C31, 647-UKL1V101MPDANA
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...EpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22Sm%2bmV%2bWL5oq6UdVuYzRgms=

I had to go all over, first to figure out that this is a 636, then to the manual to find the expected values and parameters of the cx parts for that board, then link out to mouser to see if it was what the manual called for. at 2am my brain was again not up to it.

NOTE, EXAMPLES BELOW, DO NOT ORDER!!!!!

I realize the parts posts are a bit back in the past, but if you could find a few and study the formats that are a lot easier to vet than having to link out to mouser for each and every cap type. I have an old, s l o w 500mhz P3 computer with limited resources that strain to do what was needed to vet that list. No less my tired brain. I passed the list several times (and started a few times, then gave up), thinking, I can't do that now...

a blindingly fast format we try to use... go look at the whole post

the board number and the part name solidly link and identify each component, what is specified, the replacement part number and it's ratings. ALL in the same place. IF by chance the board is used in other models (some are) then it's pure gravy...

mattsd said:
Here is my 950 recap list, hope it helps! It details each cap and its replacement. Also included are the transistors that are known to get noisy in this model and their replacements.

Pioneer SX-950 recap list

Equalizer Amp Assembly (AWF-011)

AWF-011: C1: 1uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H010KDDANA 1uF 50v
AWF-011: C2: 1uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H010KDDANA 1uF 50v
AWF-011: C7: 330uF 6.8v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWF-011: C8: 330uF 6.8v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWF-011: C11: 3.3uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA 3.3uF 50v
AWF-011: C12: 3.3uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA 3.3uF 50v
AWF-011: C17 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V101MPD 100uF 35v
AWF-011: C18 220uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD 220uF 35v

AWF-011: Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU:
AWF-011: Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU:

Switch Assembly Board (AWS-094)

AWS-094: C1: 220uF 6.8v CEA: 647-UPW1A221MED 220uF 10v

Flat Amp Board (AWG-038)

AWG-038: C1: 2.2uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-038: C2: 2.2uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-038: C5: 4.7uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1J4R7MDD 4.7uF 63v
AWG-038: C6: 4.7uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1J4R7MDD 4.7uF 63v
AWG-038: C13: 220uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD 220uF 35v
AWG-038: C14: 220uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD 220uF 35v
AWG-038: C17: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
AWG-038: C18: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
AWG-038: C23: 4.7uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1J4R7MDD 4.7uF 63v
AWG-038: C24: 4.7uF 50v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1J4R7MDD 4.7uF 63v
AWG-038: C25: 100uF 10v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1C101KPDANA 100uF 16v
AWG-038: C26: 100uF 10v CEANL(NL): 647-UKL1C101KPDANA 100uF 16v
AWG-038: C27: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v

AWG-038: Q5: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
AWG-038: Q6: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU

<snip>

Not a criticism, you did a LOT of work to set up a nice looking post. I admire the work that went into formatting and appearance, no less embedding the links. Not bad for a blind try, I should have dug up an old post as an example, but sigh, too much to do, so little time...

randallflag · Jun 19, 2011

markthefixer said:
edit: I'm copying this to the top, so to set the tone of this post: (instead of setting a wrong tone)

Update/finished off the amplifier parts - HEADS UP!! there were changes as well as additions!! Treat this as a COMPLETELY NEW LIST!!

I'm pretty sure all the ordering codes are up to date. I didn't "check stock"...

as for the rest, there are changes inside, and it wasn't easy or fast...
in fact I gave up by the control amp and based on what I did check, you should be fine.

I had to go all over, first to figure out that this is a 636, then to the manual to find the expected values and parameters of the cx parts for that board, then link out to mouser to see if it was what the manual called for. at 2am my brain was again not up to it.

NOTE, EXAMPLES BELOW, DO NOT ORDER!!!!!

I realize the parts posts are a bit back in the past, but if you could find a few and study the formats that are a lot easier to vet than having to link out to mouser for each and every cap type. I have an old, s l o w 500mhz P3 computer with limited resources that strain to do what was needed to vet that list. No less my tired brain. I passed the list several times (and started a few times, then gave up), thinking, I can't do that now...

a blindingly fast format we try to use... go look at the whole post

the board number and the part name solidly link and identify each component, what is specified, the replacement part number and it's ratings. ALL in the same place. IF by chance the board is used in other models (some are) then it's pure gravy...

Not a criticism, you did a LOT of work to set up a nice looking post. I admire the work that went into formatting and appearance, no less embedding the links. Not bad for a blind try, I should have dug up an old post as an example, but sigh, too much to do, so little time...

Awesome work. I finally got a chance to sit down and go over your reply. I actually had an idea of the format you typically list from reading older posts...I just wasn't confident enough about the mouser site and I wanted you to see exactly what I was searching for each component, hence the direct links. I guess it makes sense now that copy/paste text is much faster for you or anyone for that matter. I will do so in the future. I'll probably be ordering next weekend and once the parts are in hand i'll begin. I'll keep you appraised of my progress and thanks again.

larryderouin · Jun 19, 2011

I just noticed at Mouser they have the KSC3503estu listed as END OF LIFE DUE FOR OBSOLESCENSE TO BE DISCONTINUED. So get them while they last. This is a just a HEADS UP.

Larry

Pioneer sx-636...could use some help

Vae Victis

AK Subscriber

Vae Victis

Well-Known Member

On Hiatus, hospitalized and NOT doing Clutches

Vae Victis

Vae Victis

On Hiatus, hospitalized and NOT doing Clutches

Vae Victis

On Hiatus, hospitalized and NOT doing Clutches

Vae Victis

On Hiatus, hospitalized and NOT doing Clutches

Vae Victis

Vae Victis

Pioneer and Realistic

Vae Victis

AK Subscriber

On Hiatus, hospitalized and NOT doing Clutches

Vae Victis

I'm VERTICAL and Breathing...most of the time.

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