SA 9800 Wooden Case
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dCraig
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Here are the SA 8800/9800 Case dimensions
Ok, here are the dimensions from my original case. Will add pictures later. These instructions are similar to my CT-F1250 case instructions at this link (http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=325682). These dimensions should serve you:
1 (one) Top Piece: 16-5/8" wide (side to side) by 4" deep (front to back) by 7/16" thick.
You will have to use a bandsaw to re-saw the wood down to 7/16" thick because you seldom can find wood that thickness. The metal grill has a lip that slips under the back edge of this top center piece. This top piece is glued and attached to the side pieces by a right angle metal brace(one on each side) to hold it perpendicular to the sides.
2 Side Pieces: 15-1/4" (front to back) by 5-3/4" (Top to bottom) x 5/8" thick.
Also need re-sawing to that thickness. You can use a thicker piece for the sides, though. Your choice.
Note that when you connect the top center piece to the sides, it needs to be lower than the top edge of the sides by 1/16th". To do this, place the top piece upside down on a flat surface with a 1/16th " shim under the top piece (but not under the side pieces) and attach the sides upside down to the top piece. This will recess the top piece about 1/16" down from the top edges of each side piece. Creates a nice reveal.
Alert!: Make sure you drill the holes in the side pieces before you glue the sides to the top! Use a drill press for clean holes or place another piece of wood under your side piece while drilling. This will prevent tear out. The recessed screw hole is made by using a 9/16" forstner drill bit (http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-forstner-bit.htm) on the exposed faces of the side pieces - centered on the screw hole. The recess is 1/4" deep. The screw hole is 3/16" in diameter. The holes are 1-1/8" up from the bottom of the side pieces, with the front holes being 3-1/4" in from the front edge of the side piece. The back holes are 3" in from the back edge of the back piece. Re-check these dimensions on your machine.
Inside the case:
4 spacers: 3/4" x 1/2" x 1-3/8"
These fit over the front and back screw holes inside the case. They are spacers to keep the sides plumb to the unit. Glue and/or finish nail them in place.
Each spacer is placed 1/2" up from the bottom of the side piece. Center it on the hole side to side.
There are some other tabs inside the case, mostly to give support for the metal grill. I will post pictures later to show them. They are simple scrap pieces. There is one brace at the front of each side piece to keep the case aligned with the unit well. I will show that and give the dimensions later.
Assembly instructions:
Check the dimensions as you go. If I left in any typos or dimension errors, please let me know. Assemble and finish.
You're done.
Ok, here are the dimensions from my original case. Will add pictures later. These instructions are similar to my CT-F1250 case instructions at this link (http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=325682). These dimensions should serve you:
1 (one) Top Piece: 16-5/8" wide (side to side) by 4" deep (front to back) by 7/16" thick.
You will have to use a bandsaw to re-saw the wood down to 7/16" thick because you seldom can find wood that thickness. The metal grill has a lip that slips under the back edge of this top center piece. This top piece is glued and attached to the side pieces by a right angle metal brace(one on each side) to hold it perpendicular to the sides.
2 Side Pieces: 15-1/4" (front to back) by 5-3/4" (Top to bottom) x 5/8" thick.
Also need re-sawing to that thickness. You can use a thicker piece for the sides, though. Your choice.
Note that when you connect the top center piece to the sides, it needs to be lower than the top edge of the sides by 1/16th". To do this, place the top piece upside down on a flat surface with a 1/16th " shim under the top piece (but not under the side pieces) and attach the sides upside down to the top piece. This will recess the top piece about 1/16" down from the top edges of each side piece. Creates a nice reveal.
Alert!: Make sure you drill the holes in the side pieces before you glue the sides to the top! Use a drill press for clean holes or place another piece of wood under your side piece while drilling. This will prevent tear out. The recessed screw hole is made by using a 9/16" forstner drill bit (http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-forstner-bit.htm) on the exposed faces of the side pieces - centered on the screw hole. The recess is 1/4" deep. The screw hole is 3/16" in diameter. The holes are 1-1/8" up from the bottom of the side pieces, with the front holes being 3-1/4" in from the front edge of the side piece. The back holes are 3" in from the back edge of the back piece. Re-check these dimensions on your machine.
Inside the case:
4 spacers: 3/4" x 1/2" x 1-3/8"
These fit over the front and back screw holes inside the case. They are spacers to keep the sides plumb to the unit. Glue and/or finish nail them in place.
Each spacer is placed 1/2" up from the bottom of the side piece. Center it on the hole side to side.
There are some other tabs inside the case, mostly to give support for the metal grill. I will post pictures later to show them. They are simple scrap pieces. There is one brace at the front of each side piece to keep the case aligned with the unit well. I will show that and give the dimensions later.
Assembly instructions:
Check the dimensions as you go. If I left in any typos or dimension errors, please let me know. Assemble and finish.
You're done.
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....I think the SG 9500, 9800, TX 9500 are shorter in front to back depth than the SA8800. I have a nice wood case fits an SG 9800 EQ (fits others, there's a post on that, I'll try to find it) and the SA 8800 slides right in but sticks out the back 2-3 inches. Hope this helps.
