AK Design Collaborative - Insignia-Class Economy Speakers (a.k.a Indignia)
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
marantzfan
...
Dnewma04 is going to be milling my baffles as I scratched up the first one when I tried to do it. Those pre-finished baffles are awfully easy to scratch...:yes:
Nonetheless, a short delay, but I will be with the rest of you shortly.
BTW, I am going to be running thesd off a Sansui AU-X901, which is rated at 130WPC at 8 ohms. Think thats enough to get the job done?
Nonetheless, a short delay, but I will be with the rest of you shortly.
BTW, I am going to be running thesd off a Sansui AU-X901, which is rated at 130WPC at 8 ohms. Think thats enough to get the job done?
They run gloriously on 40W SS here....
I agree. They seem to like some juice. An 11W/ch Super T-Amp, doesn't run them so well, but a 25W/ch Accurian will run them nicely but
I use my Indignias daily with a 40W/ch Sherwood S-7200 receiver. I think this is an absolutely wonderful combo, particularly listening to a fantastic college jazz station in suburban Chicago (WDCB). Non-compressed music is the norm on WDCB.
My Indignias also sound very good on my 115W/ch B&K ST-140 with my other main system components. However, the puffs of air that shot from the port from 10-12' away (that reparted everyone's hair) at a recent Chicago-Area AK Get Together, freaked lots of people out.
Russellc
Addicted Member
You COULD be listening to one in mono....
Yet another trip to Lowe's and I'll be good. Tonight maybe!!!
Russellc
Paratima
E'Wavin'
Had to do that on my ZLH-17's also. Let's hear it for drum sanders and fudge factor!
Russellc
Addicted Member
OK, I've got the drum sander now! However another problem has reared its ugly head. When I attach the port tube, the face plate will not mount onto the box. I turned it every which way to no avail. Close inspection reveals that with the port tube installed, it contacts the inside of the box, not allowing the face plate scoot to over far enough to drop into the opening.
It appears I would have to remove substantial material from the inside edge of the box, enough that it may not seal properly at this point. How did everyone else do this? Or do I need to buy a "hole mover" and scoot it over?
Russellc
It appears I would have to remove substantial material from the inside edge of the box, enough that it may not seal properly at this point. How did everyone else do this? Or do I need to buy a "hole mover" and scoot it over?
Russellc
The short section of pipe at the front gets the larger-diameter coupling flange past the internal frame:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1837258#post1837258
That's not where the baffle seal is made in the curved cabinets, so if you must still sand off a bit to fit, it's not going to matter.
As I recall, the fit was tight in the prototype, so I moved the hole location over slightly in the posted baffle layout. It should bypass that frame without difficulty....
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1837258#post1837258
That's not where the baffle seal is made in the curved cabinets, so if you must still sand off a bit to fit, it's not going to matter.
As I recall, the fit was tight in the prototype, so I moved the hole location over slightly in the posted baffle layout. It should bypass that frame without difficulty....
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Russellc
Addicted Member
The short section of pipe at the front gets the larger-diameter coupling flange past the internal frame:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1837258#post1837258
That's not where the baffle seal is made in the curved cabinets, so if you must still sand off a bit to fit, it's not going to matter.
As I recall, the fit was tight in the prototype, so I moved the hole location over slightly in the posted baffle layout. It should bypass that frame without difficulty....
It doesnt, even with only the smaller piece, without the 45 degree piece installed. If I make it a little longer, I can sand out a place for the fit....what part makes the seal? I was going to put foam along the front edge of the "rim" that goes around the inside edge of the box's front, the part that the tube is interfering with. Where should I be putting this foam to make the best seal?
Russellc
First recessed shoulder back from the face of the cabinet.
Are yours curved or rectangular; I have both here, and they are different in this region....
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Russellc
Addicted Member
Mine are curved. Here's a pic of the interference: ( I'm grinding as we speak)
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Russellc
Addicted Member
I'm not gettin' this.
Are we looking in through the port hole there?
If so, why is there a counterbore on the face?
No, its an optical illusion b/c of the light and angle. Is this better? Not much of a photographer here!
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Yes, I see it now. I don't believe I'll move the port location over more to correct for that, though.
The foam seal tape goes on the shoulder in front of the frame you are grinding, so it's not an issue.
The reflections reveal the stunning quality of the piano black finish on these stock PE cabinets.
Of note: Wiredbecker and I discovered that the front baffles will buff to a similar mirror finish. We used a buffing wheel with a bit of polish on it in a cordless drill.... :thmbsp:
The foam seal tape goes on the shoulder in front of the frame you are grinding, so it's not an issue.
The reflections reveal the stunning quality of the piano black finish on these stock PE cabinets.
Of note: Wiredbecker and I discovered that the front baffles will buff to a similar mirror finish. We used a buffing wheel with a bit of polish on it in a cordless drill.... :thmbsp:
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Ok, so where are my pics so I can submit the PE writeup?!??!??!!!??
Russellc
Addicted Member
Sucess!
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