Nope, scratch-built, looks like, of similar design. PE kits could be finished like that, as well.... :thmbsp:
Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
4343
Super Member
Anyone Had This Issue?
The Pyle 6X12 WG's I received have really poor throat alignment:thumbsdn:, should I worry about it?
First pic is the front view with a 2446 threaded up, it's screen is offset! A LOT! Second shows the threads offset, and third, Oh Yeah! I finished the baffles today and started gluing up the first box. The driver is a 5A540 with a really awful adapter, but it has a great sound with the JBL Al diaphragm in it... Finally, If you've ever had a tee nut fall off inside a cabinet you'll like this! I sandwich the nuts between the baffle and the ring, this baffle is pretty thin with the 12 recessed flush, so the nuts go into the 1/2" plywood instead of into the 1/4" of particle board baffle that's left.
The Pyle 6X12 WG's I received have really poor throat alignment:thumbsdn:, should I worry about it?
First pic is the front view with a 2446 threaded up, it's screen is offset! A LOT! Second shows the threads offset, and third, Oh Yeah! I finished the baffles today and started gluing up the first box. The driver is a 5A540 with a really awful adapter, but it has a great sound with the JBL Al diaphragm in it... Finally, If you've ever had a tee nut fall off inside a cabinet you'll like this! I sandwich the nuts between the baffle and the ring, this baffle is pretty thin with the 12 recessed flush, so the nuts go into the 1/2" plywood instead of into the 1/4" of particle board baffle that's left.
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Don't worry about it....
4343
Super Member
OK, I won't
But I'm still going to call JBL tomorrow and get a few of theirs to compare... Let's see 6X12 and 6X6 for starters, any others I should try? 1" bolt-on would be nice so I could toss the adapter plates.
Don't worry about it....
But I'm still going to call JBL tomorrow and get a few of theirs to compare... Let's see 6X12 and 6X6 for starters, any others I should try? 1" bolt-on would be nice so I could toss the adapter plates.
JBL 8" x 8" also:
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/AE Series Compact Models/AC1895-WH.pdf
And this $6 job:
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/PRX Series/PRX512M.pdf
Bolt-on, the 14" x 10" QSC we've been working with recently, and 18-Sound XT1086 and XT120 ellipticals.
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/AE Series Compact Models/AC1895-WH.pdf
And this $6 job:
http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/PRX Series/PRX512M.pdf
Bolt-on, the 14" x 10" QSC we've been working with recently, and 18-Sound XT1086 and XT120 ellipticals.
10" waveguide options
I've been digging through all this wonderful e-wave content for a white now, and I'm ready to embark on a project. I'd really like to use a 10" woofer, and I was wondering what kind of matching waveguide options there are. I've seen the Dayton 10" round and the QSC 10" round, but have yet to find any documented results. Any other recomendations? Possibly some measurements?
Thanks!
I've been digging through all this wonderful e-wave content for a white now, and I'm ready to embark on a project. I'd really like to use a 10" woofer, and I was wondering what kind of matching waveguide options there are. I've seen the Dayton 10" round and the QSC 10" round, but have yet to find any documented results. Any other recomendations? Possibly some measurements?
Thanks!
We encourage working with the standard 12" x 6" waveguide, which, according to simulations, mates well with a 10" woofer in terms of spacing of the vertical nulls, augmenting the pattern control. A full exposition of the debate regarding round versus rectangular waveguides appears in Geddes' "Horn vs. Waveguide" thread on the DIY Audio forum.
No one has built eWave with either of the waveguides you mention, but it would be interesting to compare the results. We're talking $10 apiece to explore them as options.... :yes:
No one has built eWave with either of the waveguides you mention, but it would be interesting to compare the results. We're talking $10 apiece to explore them as options.... :yes:
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Gang-Twanger
Resident Wharfedaliophool
Verticle nulls?? Oh come on, you're just messing with us. Is that an actual term? You made that up, right? You totally-lost me there.
Man, I'm never gonna' figure this stuff out.................... Sheeeeez........ "Verticle nulls"......
4343
Super Member
PRX512M "Horn 354267-001"
The PDF says that one is a horn! I don't need any more steenking horns!
The PDF says that one is a horn! I don't need any more steenking horns!
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2867674#post2867674Verticle nulls?? Oh come on, you're just messing with us. Is that an actual term? You made that up, right? You totally-lost me there.
Man, I'm never gonna' figure this stuff out.................... Sheeeeez........ "Verticle nulls"......
Pretend it's a waveguide, just not at PT waveguide.
Yes, I have them, have measured them, and have heard them.
Brandon's measurements are in his DriverVault:
http://sites.google.com/site/drivervault/driver-measurements/horns-and-waveguides/jbl-354267-001
Zilch suggested I post my Econo-Wave build in this thread so I can become an official member of the Econo-Wave club. He kind of beat me to it in post #7716! Anyway, pictures and a description of components used can be found on my photosite (photography is a hobby too...) located here:
http://www.pbase.com/pcasper/econowave
I did have to tweak the standard high-efficiency crossover a bit to smooth the response (I'm an electrical engineer - I couldn't help myself), but I doubt that the difference was audible.
This was a fun and easy to do project, and I encourage anyone who's on the fence to take the plunge. The results far exceed the cost. I am used to Danley SH50's in my theater (preceded by Avantgarde Duos), and my ear says the Econo-Wave design has many of the same attributes.
Paul
http://www.pbase.com/pcasper/econowave
I did have to tweak the standard high-efficiency crossover a bit to smooth the response (I'm an electrical engineer - I couldn't help myself), but I doubt that the difference was audible.
This was a fun and easy to do project, and I encourage anyone who's on the fence to take the plunge. The results far exceed the cost. I am used to Danley SH50's in my theater (preceded by Avantgarde Duos), and my ear says the Econo-Wave design has many of the same attributes.
Paul
Steve O2
Active Member
I have a question here on this crossover.
In need to build a 4 ohm >95 db crossover, the parts list here;
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=151282&d=1242968714
Shows different values
Dayton DNR-16 16 Ohm 10W Precision Audi .. 2 $1.25 $2.50
R1 004-30 Dayton DNR-30 30 Ohm 10W Precision Audi .. 2 $1.25 $2.50
C3 027-406 Dayton DMPC-0.47 0.47uF 250V Polypropyl .. 2 $0.79 $1.58
C1 027-422 Dayton DMPC-4.7 4.7uF 250V Polypropylen .. 2 $2.13 $4.26
C2 027-586 Solen 24uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor .. 2 $11.33 $22.66
L1 255-040 Jantzen 0.60mH 20 AWG Air Core Inductor .. 2 $4.19 $8.38
L-pad 260-255 L-Pad 50W Mono 1" Shaft 8 Ohm .. 2 $9.70 $19.40
L2 255-416 Jantzen 0.75mH 15 AWG Air Core Inductor .
Is the above list what I need to order for a greater than 95 Db crossover for a 4 ohm woofer:scratch2:
Also what resistor value would I need for extended use with 300+ watts per channel????
HELP PLEASE!!! I want to order this stuff today...
Im also gonna get the DEQ 2496 and the mike and stand so I can geek out doing measurements:nerd:
In need to build a 4 ohm >95 db crossover, the parts list here;
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=151282&d=1242968714
Shows different values
Dayton DNR-16 16 Ohm 10W Precision Audi .. 2 $1.25 $2.50
R1 004-30 Dayton DNR-30 30 Ohm 10W Precision Audi .. 2 $1.25 $2.50
C3 027-406 Dayton DMPC-0.47 0.47uF 250V Polypropyl .. 2 $0.79 $1.58
C1 027-422 Dayton DMPC-4.7 4.7uF 250V Polypropylen .. 2 $2.13 $4.26
C2 027-586 Solen 24uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor .. 2 $11.33 $22.66
L1 255-040 Jantzen 0.60mH 20 AWG Air Core Inductor .. 2 $4.19 $8.38
L-pad 260-255 L-Pad 50W Mono 1" Shaft 8 Ohm .. 2 $9.70 $19.40
L2 255-416 Jantzen 0.75mH 15 AWG Air Core Inductor .
Is the above list what I need to order for a greater than 95 Db crossover for a 4 ohm woofer:scratch2:
Also what resistor value would I need for extended use with 300+ watts per channel????
HELP PLEASE!!! I want to order this stuff today...
Im also gonna get the DEQ 2496 and the mike and stand so I can geek out doing measurements:nerd:
I have a question here on this crossover.
In need to build a 4 ohm >95 db crossover, the parts list here;
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=151282&d=1242968714
Shows different values
Dayton DNR-16 16 Ohm 10W Precision Audi .. 2 $1.25 $2.50
R1 004-30 Dayton DNR-30 30 Ohm 10W Precision Audi .. 2 $1.25 $2.50
C3 027-406 Dayton DMPC-0.47 0.47uF 250V Polypropyl .. 2 $0.79 $1.58
C1 027-422 Dayton DMPC-4.7 4.7uF 250V Polypropylen .. 2 $2.13 $4.26
C2 027-586 Solen 24uF 400V Polypropylene Capacitor .. 2 $11.33 $22.66
L1 255-040 Jantzen 0.60mH 20 AWG Air Core Inductor .. 2 $4.19 $8.38
L-pad 260-255 L-Pad 50W Mono 1" Shaft 8 Ohm .. 2 $9.70 $19.40
L2 255-416 Jantzen 0.75mH 15 AWG Air Core Inductor .
Is the above list what I need to order for a greater than 95 Db crossover for a 4 ohm woofer:scratch2:
Also what resistor value would I need for extended use with 300+ watts per channel????
HELP PLEASE!!! I want to order this stuff today...
Im also gonna get the DEQ 2496 and the mike and stand so I can geek out doing measurements:nerd:
The parts list is correct. The .75mH choke substitutes for the 1.5mH choke, and the 24uf cap substitutes for the 12uf cap, in the woofer section, to make it compatible with 4 ohm woofers.
Regards.
Gordon.
GOYA
Super Member
Regarding the <95 dB crossover and my plans for biamping, I picked up a Rane AC23 crossover and will be using tubes for the HF. Zilch recommended "Try 20 Ohms across the input to the eWave highpass when driving it with tubes".
Three questions:
1. Are there any components of the highpass section of the econowave that I can omit when using an active xover? (Only leaving the compensation components)
2. The tube amp I plan to use has 6 ohm OPTs. Is there any alteration that is necessary for the Seleniums to play well here?
3. What is the purpose of the 20 Ohm resistor across the HF input? The tube amp is ~6-7 WPC. What power rating on that resistor should I use?
OK, it might have been more than 3 questions.
The parts list is for the standard efficiency crossover, not the high-efficiency variant. For high efficiency woofers, C3 is #027-412, 1.5 uF, R1 is #004-16, 16 Ohms, and R2 is #004-25, 25 Ohms, per the schematic.
For 4-Ohm woofers, C2 is 027-438, 25 uF, and L2 is #266-550, 1.0 mH, and you will unwind xx turns to reduce it to 0.75 mH....
1. The basic highpass filter, C1, L1, provides part of the HF compensation for D220Ti and must remain in place to do that. Recall that the electrical filter frequency is up around 3 kHz, which rolls down the response peak to flatten it and produce a 1.6 kHz acoustic filter in combination.
2. The Selenium will play well there.
3. Measure the impedance of the completed highpass with the driver connected, and I believe you will find that it goes quite high. 20 Ohms across the input reduces the swing to a level more compatible with tube amps. 10W is fine.
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