niklasthedol
Super Member
Just be aware that using click'n'pop removing SW also degrades the sound.
"dolph"
"dolph"
best Vinyl to Digital tranfer
- Thread starter Peter_Klim
- Start date
bangsezmax
Turntable Whisperer
Have you tried ClickRepair?
niklasthedol
Super Member
Scuzzer
Fixed Bias
The automatic click removal on some software does degrade the sound if used inappropriately but that's a user problem not a software one. Do you also think that manual click removal degrades the sound?
niklasthedol
Super Member
Yes.
Because no matter what there are musical information in any kind of noise on the media, no matter if it's LP, Tape or other.
There can be clicks and pops taking focus away from the music.
But then again, removing noise from any music media will always be a compromise.
Digitizing LP's is a compromizing act in itself.
"dolph"
Last edited:
Scuzzer
Fixed Bias
Fair enough. Everyone has to draw a line somewhere. I use click removal to clean up some of the more egregious clicks on my less than pristine used records. I can see how others might not prefer that compromise while others might get more aggressive and remove any slight tic or pop. My vinyl transfers aren't for critical listening so I don't worry about it too much though.
bangsezmax
Turntable Whisperer
I've used many of the tools and played with all sorts of settings. ClickRepair's method is far more flexible, is less intrusive and produces better results than any other product out there.
It's not perfect -- nothing is. You are removing data from the recording. But this particular product (and I have no connection other than a happy and impressed customer) is just much closer to perfect than all of the other similar pieces of software. Try it and you'll see what I'm talking about.
niklasthedol
Super Member
You might have missed some of my former posts in this thread when you can recommend me this solution.
Furthermore, digitizing analog material is something I only do on very rare occasions.
I prefer to maintain the best possible sound of each piece of music.
I was merely posting an answer to OP's question due to my experiences.
Experiences that it seemed that nobody else, so far, had mentioned at all.
"dolph"
jblnut
Don't Overthink It
I went down this road in earnest a few years ago. I used 2 DAT units - one in my stereo to record the music off the TT and another in my studio to play it back onto the PC via the X-Fi's digital in. What I determined after a lot of testing, trying and tuning is this:
If you are after the highest possible sound quality - and it sounds like you are - two things will become immediately apparent:
1) The LP always sounds better because it's analog and hasn't been digitized.
2) The commercially available CD of whatever you are trying to digitize will almost always sound better than your home brew version
Unless you're in posession of a bunch of LP's that are just not available on CD, or you're planning to keep this on the PC and use 24/96 playback (something I did not have available to me), this may not turn out to be a very productive road.
I gave up and I just listen to the LP's now....
jblnut
If you are after the highest possible sound quality - and it sounds like you are - two things will become immediately apparent:
1) The LP always sounds better because it's analog and hasn't been digitized.
2) The commercially available CD of whatever you are trying to digitize will almost always sound better than your home brew version
Unless you're in posession of a bunch of LP's that are just not available on CD, or you're planning to keep this on the PC and use 24/96 playback (something I did not have available to me), this may not turn out to be a very productive road.
I gave up and I just listen to the LP's now....
jblnut
bangsezmax
Turntable Whisperer
My needledrops always sound better than commercial CDs, but then I don't bother to needledrop a record unless the LP mastering sounds pretty good (as in better than the CD!) to begin with.
rkay5
Active Member
Hi,
For LP recording I use a Dell XPS M170 laptop with a Echo Indigo Io pro audio sound card software is Audacity I recorded at 32bit 88.2KHz and save files at 24bit 88.2KHz aiff in iTunes to burn CD's iTunes down samples to 16bit 44.1KHz on it's own for cables I use some 3meter AudioQuest wire that I made myself. First my Thorens TD150 very modified to Creek 4330R phono preamp board to tape out to my ZHAOLU D2A +HEADPHONO Amp D/A converter the headphone part has analog input and output with volume output control so I have a preamp for the Echo Indigo Io witch doesn't input level control from the Zhaolu D2A to the Indigo Io to Audacity. So why do I recorded at 32bit 88.2KHz and save 24bit 88.2KHz so just do the math 88.2KHz/2=44.1KHz I have found that I get a better CD this way than say 96KHz/2.176870748=44100.00001KHz or recording at 16bit 44.1KHz.A lot my friend say my CD's made this way sound a lot better than what you get at the store.Oh the 24bit 88.2KHz files sound really damn good.After burninga CD I change the files to Apple lossless in save in iTunes.I'm very happy with this set-up
For LP recording I use a Dell XPS M170 laptop with a Echo Indigo Io pro audio sound card software is Audacity I recorded at 32bit 88.2KHz and save files at 24bit 88.2KHz aiff in iTunes to burn CD's iTunes down samples to 16bit 44.1KHz on it's own for cables I use some 3meter AudioQuest wire that I made myself. First my Thorens TD150 very modified to Creek 4330R phono preamp board to tape out to my ZHAOLU D2A +HEADPHONO Amp D/A converter the headphone part has analog input and output with volume output control so I have a preamp for the Echo Indigo Io witch doesn't input level control from the Zhaolu D2A to the Indigo Io to Audacity. So why do I recorded at 32bit 88.2KHz and save 24bit 88.2KHz so just do the math 88.2KHz/2=44.1KHz I have found that I get a better CD this way than say 96KHz/2.176870748=44100.00001KHz or recording at 16bit 44.1KHz.A lot my friend say my CD's made this way sound a lot better than what you get at the store.Oh the 24bit 88.2KHz files sound really damn good.After burninga CD I change the files to Apple lossless in save in iTunes.I'm very happy with this set-up
Trance88
Vintage Furry
I transfer my records to digital by hooking my turntable up to a preamp and connect the preamp to my computer. I use audacity to record the records to Wav format. I can't think of any better setup than this meathod unless you have a lot of pops and clicks you want to get rid of. I just remove major pops and clicks manually by going through the wavforms and zoning in on the "spikes" and flatten them out.
niklasthedol
Super Member
This is interesting, because I know sound tech guys very keen on keeping the sampling rate at a simple multiplied figure of 44.1 kHz.
44.1 / 88.2 / 132.3 / 176.4 / 220.5 / 264.6 / 308.7 / 352.8
This is also what high resolution DXD sometimes is using.
I have been trying this approach but didn't seem to find any issues in using 96 / 192 or other not simple multiplied figure of 44.1.
Maybe it depends on the HW/SW handling of U/D sampling.
Some just does it better than others.
"dolph"
stacyellenk
Active Member
This is the same type of system I use as well. As long as the record itself is relatively clean, I don't generally have a problem with the transfer. However, it won't work properly if I don't clean the record free of dust and any particles that may be in the grooves before playing.
It sounds like this unknown bit will be the weakest link. I use an Auzentech X-Fi Prelude to record at high resolutions and it works great. It's based on the Creative X-Fi chipset. They do have newer models for PCI Express and low form factors (HTPC) now, but they're all based on the same technology.
Peter_Klim
Well-Known Member
I just checked my laptop and see I mistakenly identified it. I really have a "SigmaTel High Definition CODEC" as a "Microphone / Line In" - this is what I see when I go to the Control Panel >Sound>Recording tab.
I also have it under the Playback tab under "Speaker / Headphones" and "Digital Output Device (S/PDIF)"
I'll update my original post with this information.
Peter_Klim
Well-Known Member
iPod (like devices) with built in digital outs?
Thansk for all your help guys! I have one more question, which i added to my original post:
I also want to ask about using an iPod or other portable digital player. You need to get the WADIA iTranport to by pass the built in DAC in the iPod for $379 plus a DAC. Are there any players that have a digital out built in? that can play lossless files?
Thansk for all your help guys! I have one more question, which i added to my original post:
I also want to ask about using an iPod or other portable digital player. You need to get the WADIA iTranport to by pass the built in DAC in the iPod for $379 plus a DAC. Are there any players that have a digital out built in? that can play lossless files?
aabottom
Swing
Vinyl to Digital Transfer- The rkay5 method
rkay5
Thank you for your response. This sounds like a well researched, well thought out method. I am very interested in your method.
I realize that time constraints may have forced you to write a quick, unedited response describing your method. I find your reply a little challenging to read. I would appreciated if you would edited your response so that it is clearer and easier to read.
To assist you, I have attempted to edit your method so that others can grasp it readily (see below). Please correct any misinterpretations you see.
Thank you
aabottom
====================
best Vinyl to Digital tranfer
aabottom’s interpretation of rkay5’s method.
[1] http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=270075
post #31 by rkay5 on 20091222 1128
(edited for reading clarity by aabottom)
1. For LP recording I use a Dell XPS M170 laptop with a Echo Indigo Io pro audio sound card.
2. The software I use is Audacity. I record at 32 bit, 88.2KHz.
3. I save files at 24 bit, 88.2KHz aiff in iTunes.
4. To burn CD's, iTunes down samples to 16 bit, 44.1KHz on it's own.
5. For cables, I use some 3 meter AudioQuest wire that I made myself.
6. First my Thorens TD150 turntable (very modified) outputs to a Creek 4330R phono preamp board. From there, the tape out goes to my ZHAOLU D2A +HEADPHONO Amp D/A converter. The headphone part has analog input and output with volume output control so I have a preamp for the Echo Indigo Io (which doesn't input level control).
7. The Creek 4330R (integrated amp) transfers the audio signal to the Zhaolu D2A (headpone amp) to the Echo Indigo Io (computer sound card) to Audacity (the computer recording software).
8. So why do I recorded at 32bit 88.2KHz and save 24bit 88.2KHz? Just do the math, 88.2 KHz/2 = 44.1 KHz. I have found that I get a better CD this way, than say 96 KHz/2.176870748 = 44100.00001KHz or recording at 16 bit, 44.1KHz. A lot my friend say my CD's made this way sound a lot better than what you get at the store. Oh, the 24 bit, 88.2KHz files sound really damn good. After burning a CD I change the files to Apple lossless in save in iTunes. I'm very happy with this set-up.
rkay5
Thank you for your response. This sounds like a well researched, well thought out method. I am very interested in your method.
I realize that time constraints may have forced you to write a quick, unedited response describing your method. I find your reply a little challenging to read. I would appreciated if you would edited your response so that it is clearer and easier to read.
To assist you, I have attempted to edit your method so that others can grasp it readily (see below). Please correct any misinterpretations you see.
Thank you
aabottom
====================
best Vinyl to Digital tranfer
aabottom’s interpretation of rkay5’s method.
[1] http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=270075
post #31 by rkay5 on 20091222 1128
(edited for reading clarity by aabottom)
1. For LP recording I use a Dell XPS M170 laptop with a Echo Indigo Io pro audio sound card.
2. The software I use is Audacity. I record at 32 bit, 88.2KHz.
3. I save files at 24 bit, 88.2KHz aiff in iTunes.
4. To burn CD's, iTunes down samples to 16 bit, 44.1KHz on it's own.
5. For cables, I use some 3 meter AudioQuest wire that I made myself.
6. First my Thorens TD150 turntable (very modified) outputs to a Creek 4330R phono preamp board. From there, the tape out goes to my ZHAOLU D2A +HEADPHONO Amp D/A converter. The headphone part has analog input and output with volume output control so I have a preamp for the Echo Indigo Io (which doesn't input level control).
7. The Creek 4330R (integrated amp) transfers the audio signal to the Zhaolu D2A (headpone amp) to the Echo Indigo Io (computer sound card) to Audacity (the computer recording software).
8. So why do I recorded at 32bit 88.2KHz and save 24bit 88.2KHz? Just do the math, 88.2 KHz/2 = 44.1 KHz. I have found that I get a better CD this way, than say 96 KHz/2.176870748 = 44100.00001KHz or recording at 16 bit, 44.1KHz. A lot my friend say my CD's made this way sound a lot better than what you get at the store. Oh, the 24 bit, 88.2KHz files sound really damn good. After burning a CD I change the files to Apple lossless in save in iTunes. I'm very happy with this set-up.
Last edited:
Bob_in_OKC
Addicted Member
My current digital recording method is now a Creative SoundBlaster Live! USB on a Dell Dimension PC, attached to the Tape 1 input/output of a Marantz 2325 receiver...unless I am sure I have no editing I want to do. If I want to make a no-hassle, no-edit recording, I have a Pioneer PDR-509 attached to the Tape 2 input/output of the Marantz.
I record with Audacity and sometimes use its click-removal and noise-removal tools. For recordings that have only a very few offending moments, I zoom in on them in Audacity, copy the preceding tenth of a second or less, and paste it over the offending sound.
I record with Audacity and sometimes use its click-removal and noise-removal tools. For recordings that have only a very few offending moments, I zoom in on them in Audacity, copy the preceding tenth of a second or less, and paste it over the offending sound.
