I wasn't able to get the transistor modification done on this one, but I did at least get one problem area redesigned... No real big shakes, but for anyone who has had to remove the heatsink/driver boards, or the power supply board on the 919 (the one that covers the bottom of the big oval caps), this is what they are dreaming of while they battle globs of solder.
In stock form, all these wires you see in the pics at the yellow circles are soldered in place. It makes for an unbelievable mess to desolder and put them back (ESPECIALLY at the ground terminals). On this one, (and I really screwed up by not taking a 'before' pic here, as it was amazingly laughable), the last guy was not of the school of 'keep it neat' by any stretch of the imagination. I desoldered the wires, removed the power supply board, and cleaned up all the excess solder.
The four capacitor 'clips' at the top of the pic had to be removed from the PS board, and I stuck in a #6 SS screw and locked it in place with a standard nut. On the two lower ground connection points, I used a #10 SS screw, and also locked it in place with a nut. Then, after cleaning up all the glue (this PS board was bad, and required about a 95% component replacement to get rid of the contaminated parts) and replacing the caps and the regulator transistors, the previously soldered wires all got ring terminals soldered to them.
With the board reinstalled, the wires simply slip onto the #6 and #10 screw threads, and I lock them down with Nylox nuts.
I can remove this PS board now in less than 10 minutes, and no desoldering. :yes:
The sharp-eyed will see that the two violet wires running to the middle-left of the board have a length of red wire spliced in, and the stock Sansui plastic ends for the connection point are MIA. The last guy must have done something horrible, as about 5" of the violet wire was badly burned, and the plastic ends melted. I had to cut one of the wires back about 5" to find unburned copper to solder to (burned copper don't solder too well, and carries current even worse). The ends being destroyed, I spliced some connectors from a computer power supply to the wire ends and shrink-wrapped 'em. The power supply connectors are the perfect size to mate with the male pin on the PS board.
In stock form, all these wires you see in the pics at the yellow circles are soldered in place. It makes for an unbelievable mess to desolder and put them back (ESPECIALLY at the ground terminals). On this one, (and I really screwed up by not taking a 'before' pic here, as it was amazingly laughable), the last guy was not of the school of 'keep it neat' by any stretch of the imagination. I desoldered the wires, removed the power supply board, and cleaned up all the excess solder.
The four capacitor 'clips' at the top of the pic had to be removed from the PS board, and I stuck in a #6 SS screw and locked it in place with a standard nut. On the two lower ground connection points, I used a #10 SS screw, and also locked it in place with a nut. Then, after cleaning up all the glue (this PS board was bad, and required about a 95% component replacement to get rid of the contaminated parts) and replacing the caps and the regulator transistors, the previously soldered wires all got ring terminals soldered to them.
With the board reinstalled, the wires simply slip onto the #6 and #10 screw threads, and I lock them down with Nylox nuts.
I can remove this PS board now in less than 10 minutes, and no desoldering. :yes:
The sharp-eyed will see that the two violet wires running to the middle-left of the board have a length of red wire spliced in, and the stock Sansui plastic ends for the connection point are MIA. The last guy must have done something horrible, as about 5" of the violet wire was badly burned, and the plastic ends melted. I had to cut one of the wires back about 5" to find unburned copper to solder to (burned copper don't solder too well, and carries current even worse). The ends being destroyed, I spliced some connectors from a computer power supply to the wire ends and shrink-wrapped 'em. The power supply connectors are the perfect size to mate with the male pin on the PS board.
