Passive Shunt Volume Control Project Build

SET12

Super Member
Hi all,

Some Photo's First
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The project was brought about because I have been aware of how bad volume controls in general are and thought it would be extremely interesting to hear just what a passive shunt volume control can do!

What it does was very shocking to me in several ways.

Lately I have taken an interest in watching movies with two channel sound.

I have an Adcom DAC but it has no volume control.

I was in a thrift store and found a Radio Shack Audio Video Enhancer! I thought what the heck $3 and I bought it. It has 10db of gain. It has no balance control.

I connected it up to the Adcom and ran an Optical cable to my ATT U-Verse Box and I was in business.

I watched Avatar on HBO, I was shocked at how good the movie sounded even in 2-channel. The little Radio Shack Enhancer threw out a huge stage many feet beyond my living room side walls and was very deep.

I knew this wasn't the last bit of transparency but still it was way better than it ought to be IMO.

That got me thinking! AKer NoRegrets gave me his passive to try and because of its size I couldn't quite use it due to the length of my cables.

I measured his passive and found it to be pretty high in its impedance 110K total, with 10K of it in series with a 100K Alps Blue Velvet.

Essentially this works especially with tube gear but there is a price to be paid and thats perhaps some high frequency response being rolled of into a cables capacitance necessitating the need for short cables.

The same is basically true with a lower impedance control even, you have to watch those cable lengths.

Well, in a quick comparison as many might note typically there is something to be said about gain! And yes I heard it. The Radio Shack device seemed warmer and a bit more authoritative on the lower end.

But that's were it ended!

While I have never been hurting for warmth in my system there was vastly more space and definition with the shunt control. It really grabbed my attention, and I was pleased with what I was hearing. But it made me think about that line of gain having its place!

Well, Next I thought OK, lets see what my CDP equipped with Burson Discrete Op Amps Here http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=185971 does with it as I was thinking of converting its volume control over to a Shunt Type.

Well people, It was shockingly good! And just the opposite of what I expected nearly.

I really expected the CDP's dynamics to be the same!

I expected I may hear lots more information or more vividness.

Well the first thing that grabbed my attention was the dynamics.

The player was expressing a level of authority that I felt I hadn't heard before.

Not only that but everything had dynamic expressions that at a couple of points made me jump in my chair.

What the heck is this I told myself!

Wow that 10x increase of supply (With Muse and Panasonics) was really expressing itself.

I'd almost swear the the conductive plastic was compressing the sound cause my systems dynamics and spatial expression was of my recollection off the charts! Oh My!

So much for gain, I thought. Well The Bursons are really hungry Op Amps they use 5x more current than most standard Op Amps. The loading of the the Bursons is 1/2 or less of what the internal conventional control is. And of course the resistor feeding the cables capacitance is 5x or more less so there should be less loss of information.

But what kills me is the level of dynamics heard not to mention the increased information of course.

I would have to say the result of this project has yielded a least a magnitude of improvement if not more.

And all I can say is never again will I use a pot in the conventional sense.

I had all materials on hand, The pots were from a long ago passive project that never yield these kind of results that I remember but then again I didn't have system with the capability of this kind of expression.

The Pots are 10K TDK's, From here http://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf

Resistors are Metal Film 2.2k Philps's ECG's, wire is Cary Teflon over Silver Plated Copper Wire.

The Box is a Ten-Tec Box 4inx2inx6in Standard T Series.

Here

http://www.tentec.com/?s=enclosures

Be careful how you look at the measured specs. I think the front might be the width rather then the length and so on.

I attached wood side panels via standoff's so the black top piece would fit. RCA's are a Home Theater RCA Chassis Mount with what appears to be Teflon Insulators but don't know for sure, A jack that I have used in much of my work they have never melted under intense heat.

Here, http://www.philmore-datak.com/mc/Page 57.pdf

Knobs I think are Welborne Labs from yrs agao but I could find them.

http://welbornelabs.com/

So The Project turned out very well I think.

SET12
 
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Dual mono analog attenuation is by far my least favorite, especially in terms of ergonomics. If you feel like exploring attenuation further, you might try a ladder-type stepped attenuator. They have less disadvantages than the scheme you're working with now. And because I know you're the type of guy who likes to spend a ton of cash on magnetics, you could consider something really high end like an autoformer based attenuator. Good luck!
 
If I do this to my 300B amps I would be sending the signal through only 10K of resistance instead of the 100K alps I now am using and shunting the remaining gain to ground to control the volume. Squidward, You seem to think this really isn't the best idea but to my simple really untrained brain it seems like I would be putting the signal through a lot less resistance this way. My 100K Alps runs at 12:00 at best and it's taper wound so I'm probably looking at about 70K right now VS 10K. Can you help me out here?
 
If I do this to my 300B amps I would be sending the signal through only 10K of resistance instead of the 100K alps I now am using and shunting the remaining gain to ground to control the volume. Squidward, You seem to think this really isn't the best idea but to my simple really untrained brain it seems like I would be putting the signal through a lot less resistance this way. My 100K Alps runs at 12:00 at best and it's taper wound so I'm probably looking at about 70K right now VS 10K. Can you help me out here?

Your right Dave, I think the sound is more consistent IMO. In the resistance of the conductive plastic vs the metal film, the metal film is far superior and very audible, its as though the plastic sounds compressed in contrast IMO.
 
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If I do this to my 300B amps I would be sending the signal through only 10K of resistance instead of the 100K alps I now am using and shunting the remaining gain to ground to control the volume. Squidward, You seem to think this really isn't the best idea but to my simple really untrained brain it seems like I would be putting the signal through a lot less resistance this way. My 100K Alps runs at 12:00 at best and it's taper wound so I'm probably looking at about 70K right now VS 10K. Can you help me out here?

Dave,

I found this piece of info interesting!

"When you use a smallish value of series resistance and a large value audio pot to make a shunt attenuator that won't cost you very much lost gain in the maximum volume position, you will get a control where most of the volume attenuation capability is in the first third of the rotation from zero volume to maximum volume. That's not really what you want, obviously. To fix this situation you can use a series resistor value that is approximately the same value as the pot and now the shunt attenuator performs more reasonably, so that attenuation is spread more evenly over the rotation of the pot, but you lose a fair amount of gain at maximum volume setting. (approximately 10dB in the case where the pot is the same value as the series resistors). Compromises, compromises....."


From here http://www.kandkaudio.com/linestage.html

My whole purpose of the Shunt Attenuator is the sound of course and the fact that the conductive plastic is out of the signal path is most of the key benefit of this type of volume control for me and very audibly so...
 
I made TWO passive pre-amps a few years back.

One was using generic stepped mono attenuators from China.
The other was a series/shunt design, using a 10K Alps Blue pot and Dale RN-60 resistors.

I liked the results of the series/shunt design better.

Steve
 
I made TWO passive pre-amps a few years back.

One was using generic stepped mono attenuators from China.
The other was a series/shunt design, using a 10K Alps Blue pot and Dale RN-60 resistors.

I liked the results of the series/shunt design better.

Steve

Thanks Steve
 
My whole purpose of the Shunt Attenuator is the sound of course and the fact that the conductive plastic is out of the signal path is most of the key benefit of this type of volume control for me and very audibly so...

Why buy an expensive pot in the first place if it's "out of the signal path"?

Gearhound, can you elaborate more on the "stepped attenuators from China"? What topology were they?

Dave C: are you talking about a mono control on each amp, or a stereo control on a stereo amp, or a preamp?
 
Nice project, and sweet looking enclosure!

I made one in a hammond diecast alu box, complete with oak plinth. Shunt 100K Blue Velvet and nice gold plated RCA terminals, but have not even tried it much! I should get down to using it more.

az
 
Squidward:

They were 10K mono stepped ladder-type attenuators from a Hong Kong-based e-bay seller (8audio).
They used generic metal-film resistors, and the construction (IMO) was pretty decent.
If I remember correctly, the total cost.....delivered.....was $28?
I DO remember that the two mono attenuators were packed fairly well, and shipping didn't take too long.....relatively speaking?

Steve
 
Why buy an expensive pot in the first place if it's "out of the signal path"?

I made a HH type shunt pre using a cheap stereo pot. The disadvantage is that the two sides don't match. There is about a 7kΩ discrepancy between them at the lowest setting. I haven't swept it and checked the full range to see if it's constant or not. The difference is easily audible.

I have a nicer one on the way.
 
Dave C: are you talking about a mono control on each amp, or a stereo control on a stereo amp, or a preamp?

I have a mono control on each of my 300B amps. I ordered some 10K Kiwame resistors to give it a try. I hate tearing into something that I built and works well but this is a simple straight forward mod.
 
I like the Harry Haller circuit where the signal never passes through the attenuator. It only passes through one 11k resistor which you can get in an excellent quality without going broke. I still use alps pots just because they track good and feel good.:smoke:
 
Nice project, and sweet looking enclosure!

I made one in a hammond diecast alu box, complete with oak plinth. Shunt 100K Blue Velvet and nice gold plated RCA terminals, but have not even tried it much! I should get down to using it more.

az

Thanks, I have such a collection of parts and stuff it all was on hand and so easy to build and yet so good sounding as well. You should listen to it more!

If your system has the response it should reflect its performance, In my system it is as though I took off a throttle restriction plate off a muscle car. Allowing it to go down the road at 30mph and just by putting the foot to the floor having the rerar wheels break loose. Its something else! But then again as Squidward says I have some very serious magnetics allowing for some real breath of expression IMO. In fact this afternoons listening session had what I call a "flinch factor to it" due the tremendous dynamic response and especially the bass.

Other areas of note was what I refer to phase response, the sense of space was enormous and when the recording called it to be, well projected forward into the room and with a Zap Mama recording I have was actually even circling me. It was something else.

Essentially I was just over whelmed.



Why buy an expensive pot in the first place if it's "out of the signal path"?

Gearhound, can you elaborate more on the "stepped attenuators from China"? What topology were they?

Dave C: are you talking about a mono control on each amp, or a stereo control on a stereo amp, or a preamp?

Dave's controls are on his mono amps.

Squidward,

Pots were on hand and haven't been used in yrs. Your right they are pricey nowadays! I priced them today at nearly $100 for the pair but as I said they were on hand.

As K&K audio pointed out the gain can come on like gain busters so I will be experimenting with other higher value resistors.

But get the pot working in the right range with the right choice of series resistor and I could see someone preferring it to a step attenuator due to fewer choices of volume.

A buddy of mine is looking at these

Here http://www.8audio-mall.com/servlet/the-DIY-Audio-cln-Volume-Control/Categories

The same as Gear Hound purchased.

RayW has a point, Tracking! Which is why I prefer the mono's and its no hassle for me although I haven't had dual mono as my CDP is an Alp's stereo control, Many of my friends have Daul mono's though. On occasion I have had the need for a balance control due to recordings variations in balance.

I'll probably order a pair inexpensive ladders from 8audio myself and build another unit for comparison.

But I suspect most of the performance is already had but then again I can't put anything past this hobby! As I like to say nothing is written in stone!

SET12
 
I made a HH type shunt pre using a cheap stereo pot. The disadvantage is that the two sides don't match.

OP's attenuator is dual analog (non-stepped) mono. Of course I'm sure that both channels are perfectly matched all the time due to the golden ears involved.
 
But get the pot working in the right range with the right choice of series resistor and I could see someone preferring it to a step attenuator due to fewer choices of volume.

Get the stepped attenuator working in the right range and this is not an issue.
 
OK, I received some 10K Kiwame resistors today. My thoughts may have been changed to what the proper resistor value might be in doing this. I have 100K Alps volume control on my 300B monoblocks directly fed from the input jack. Is the 10K enough to give this project a try, or do I need a higher value?
 
Dual mono analog attenuation is by far my least favorite, especially in terms of ergonomics. If you feel like exploring attenuation further, you might try a ladder-type stepped attenuator. They have less disadvantages than the scheme you're working with now. And because I know you're the type of guy who likes to spend a ton of cash on magnetics, you could consider something really high end like an autoformer based attenuator. Good luck!

Squidward, can you point me to some info on autoformer based attenuators? I've seen autoformers used for attenuation for speakers drivers (xovers, speaker vol control, etc) but not seen it for line level input.
 
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