• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Infinity QLS1 recapping ?

jt45

jt45

Super Member
Im going to recap my QLS1s later this month and wanted to ask those who have recapped any of the Quantum series what their results were and how much of improvement you may have noticed. Going by a parts list by cdfac post it looks like cost the will be around 120.00.new wire not included. What Im shooting for is to get them sounding as close to new as possible. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
Register to hide this ad
Doing it again, below is what I would order at minimum. I would probably also do film bypass caps on the woofer electrolytics, maybe 1uF's, and you can think about new binding posts too. The next component upgrade from this point would probably be new midbass inductors, if you have budget left over.

From Madisound:

Bennic Poly 6.8 mfd (x4)
$12.20

Bennic Poly 1.5 mfd (x2)
$2.00

Bennic Poly 2.2 mfd (x2)
$2.80

Bennic Poly 1 mfd (x2)
$1.60

Bennic 280 mfd Electrolytic Caps (x18)
$81.00

Sidewinder 0.39 mH Air Core Inductor 16 AWG (x2)
$13.60
Sub-Total: $113.20

From Parts-Express (quantities being second price divided by first price):

Dayton DMPC-40 40uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
Part Number: 027-442
In Stock
$10.24 $20.48
Dayton DFFC-0.22 0.22uF 400V By-Pass Capacitor
Part Number: 027-454
In Stock
$0.99 $3.96
Dayton DFFC-0.33 0.33uF 400V By-Pass Capacitor
Part Number: 027-456
In Stock
$1.26 $2.52
Dayton DNR-2.7 2.7 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Part Number: 004-2.7
In Stock
$0.98 $7.84
Dayton DNR-5.6 5.6 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
Part Number: 004-5.6
In Stock
$0.98 $3.92
Order Subtotal: $38.72

------------------------------------------
GRAND TOTAL: ~$150 plus shipping
 
I perceived a noticable difference in the sound of my Q2s after replacing the old capacitors with Daytons similar to the ones on cdfacs' list.
The difference wasnt large persay however the lower midrange and up seemed more articulate making the speakers more balanced sounding...another noticeable difference was the Q2 seemed more dynamic in that they could play at louder levels without as much 'strain".
 
I have a noticed a difference in the tweeter level between my R and L speakers wich is a whole new issue I know but even after cleaning the pots its there so Im thinking I need to measure those emits and see if corrosion may be at work here. Looks like all the emits are soldered to the wires so I will have to lay the speakers down to remove those and it may be PITA. Reading some in the sticky thread here on that,,, I may just wait till I recap them and see where I end up sound wise. These QLSs havent been worked on so Im sure they are due for some PM. I am approaching this with a bit of caution and once again may need some help along the way. Thanks.
 
jt45 said:
I have a noticed a difference in the tweeter level between my R and L speakers wich is a whole new issue I know but even after cleaning the pots its there so Im thinking I need to measure those emits and see if corrosion may be at work here. Looks like all the emits are soldered to the wires so I will have to lay the speakers down to remove those and it may be PITA. Reading some in the sticky thread here on that,,, I may just wait till I recap them and see where I end up sound wise. These QLSs havent been worked on so Im sure they are due for some PM. I am approaching this with a bit of caution and once again may need some help along the way. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Are you sure it's definitely not the source?

Also I noticed on my QLS that if I have the rear firing tweeter switched on, I notice a change in output level from the front Emits.
 
tubed said:
Are you sure it's definitely not the source?

Also I noticed on my QLS that if I have the rear firing tweeter switched on, I notice a change in output level from the front Emits.
Click to expand...

Well Ive done some switching always with the same results, the tweeters and middomes on the right speaker just sound better and more dynamic or lively in the case of the tweeters. I switched my speaker wires and checked the output levels of my spec 2. I could use a better source than the CDs I have to check the tweeters with. Are there any pure sources for high freq. testing other than just playing something with cymbals ? It would make it easier to A/B them ! I usually keep the rear emits turned off. Ive even tried running the tweeter crossover switch/plug in the high position with no real difference that I could hear. Im quessing there is about 30% difference in the tweeter level between the 2 speakers, at first I thought I had an Emit out on the top pair but closer listening it just seems weak. Ive found its a little tricky trying to listen to these emits and is a bit harder than a standard tweeter to hear, at least for me anyhow.
 
Could be number of things causing the problem but I have a hunch a relatively thorough crossover rebuild will fix the problem especially since the drivers are emitting sound.
 
tubed said:
Could be number of things causing the problem but I have a hunch a relatively thorough crossover rebuild will fix the problem especially since the drivers are emitting sound.
Click to expand...

Thats what Im thinking and hope to get them up to snuff soon with a recapp, thanks for your input. I will get back on this as soon as I get those parts.
 
Do either of you have any issues with the variable resistor potentiometers? I've got (6) total on my Quantum 3's and all 6 had rust and a white build up which we cleaned as best we could with Deoxit and a dremmel but a few are still rough in their control and have some drop outs. I was thinking of replacing the pots with 2.5-ohm resistors since I believe I read those are a 5-ohm 25 watt pot.

I just finished recapping my 3's over the weekend with all Solen caps....except for the (2) stock 600uf caps that were in each one. Actually, one speaker had 2 groups of (3) 200uf caps and the other speaker had (2) 600uf "can caps" in it. Those were replaced with Bennic 200uf electrolytics. The sound? Major increase as always and they will only get better as they get broken in.
 
I hope someone chimes in on this issue as Ive cleaned mine and still have some issues with dropouts (if thats the correct term). Ive noticed that the brad on each end where the coil connects could be a hard spot to get with deoxit as that is a tight spot under the edge of that brad or whatever that post is called. The other areas seem easy to clean. However I did not use any type of coating to protect from further corrosion because I didnt have any and didnt know what works best. Anyone ?? Good to hear your Q3s are sounding better.
 
I started a dedicated thread on those potentiometers here but so far, only one has chimed in. But it's still early into it.
 
in regards to your first question, i thought the recap made a huge difference with the QLS1. when i buy a pair again at some point, it's the first thing i'll do.

with the pots, you need to use a wire brush or steel wool along with Deoxit to get rid of the corrosion. remember that only the points of contact need to be clean, which means the upper part of the coils and the stacked tabs that turn with the knob.
 
cdfac said:
in regards to your first question, i thought the recap made a huge difference with the QLS1. when i buy a pair again at some point, it's the first thing i'll do.

with the pots, you need to use a wire brush or steel wool along with Deoxit to get rid of the corrosion. remember that only the points of contact need to be clean, which means the upper part of the coils and the stacked tabs that turn with the knob.
Click to expand...

OK the point where the wire contacts the post or brad on each end is that soldered or just wrapped around the brad. I couldnt see a way to clean under that lip at that connection, I may give it another shot though and I will post a pic when i do.
Do you recoat these after cleaning with deoxit ? if so what do you use ?
 
If I recall, I used 7 200uf non-polar electrolytic caps to make the 1400uf and 5 220uf to make the 1100uf. Can't really tell you what kind of improvement the re-cap made because I never listened to them B4 refurbing them. One thing that did make a huge diff was installing new Watkins woofers about a month ago. The surround had came loose on one of them and caused a nasty vibration at certain frequencys. I really only expected the noise to disappear but the bass is much stronger and has more punch. Also when your wife can tell the diff. you know it's not your imagination.
 
Last edited:
I can't comment on the benefit to your model Infinitys, but I will whole-heartedly provide positive testimony on cdfac's choices in caps, general knowledge and quality of workmanship. He recommeded the parts and did some work on a recap on my RSII's. He basically re-designed the xover to accomodate bi-amping as well. I've been extrememly happy with the results.

He knows what he's doing. Good luck with the recap JT.
 
Jonesy09 said:
I can't comment on the benefit to your model Infinitys, but I will whole-heartedly provide positive testimony on cdfac's choices in caps, general knowledge and quality of workmanship. He recommeded the parts and did some work on a recap on my RSII's. He basically re-designed the xover to accomodate bi-amping as well. I've been extrememly happy with the results.

He knows what he's doing. Good luck with the recap JT.
Click to expand...

+1:thmbsp:
 
The best thing about AK for me has been the Infinity forum and the help I have received here, thanks I have no doubts about that list and still plan on getting it done, just troubleshooting a bit while I wait,,!!
 
This is good stuff guys. I am glad to have found it. I have a pair of Quantum 3's and love them but they need all of the above perhaps. I love the sound already so it's hard to imagine how much that recapping might help, but I'm sure it will. My pots are also choppy, and I need to clean them as well. I'm heading to LA this next weekend to pick up a set of QLS-1's I got a week ago on ebay. :banana: I can't wait to try them out next to and with the Q-3's, Bi-amped each set with it's own Spec-4 amp. :music: BTW I need grills for my Quantum 3's if anyone has extras.
 
banffskiing said:
If I recall, I used 7 200uf non-polar electrolytic caps to make the 1400uf and 5 220uf to make the 1100uf.
Click to expand...

1400 and 1100uf? What are those used for? The only thing I can think of is a sub (sub)woofer with a crossover frequency of say 15 hz? :yikes:

You usually see those kind of values in power supplies trying to filter out 60 hz.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom