Rek-O-Kut Rondine Jr. L-37 Restoration Begins.

Brett a · Nov 25, 2011

I want to start by thanking AK member dnewma04 for offering this 'table to me at a very reasonable price. After commenting about being bitten by the idler-drive bug, I'm very excited to have this unit to work with.

I haven't done anything to it yet. My game plan is to do whatever needs to be done to safely fire it up and see what I'm starting with. I'll harvest a tonearm off a cheap Yamaha TT I have out in the barn and mount a Red Ed Elliptical on it.

If all goes as hoped, I will eventually fully restore it to peak performance with new idlers if needed, an appropriately respectable tonearm, and I'll build a custom layered plinth.

I figure I'll build the new plinth only after tuning up the mechanics; running it in the hollow box plinth that dnewma04 sent along with it should help to reveal any rumble issues.

If all goes really well, I may just transfer my Well Tempered arm with the OC9MLII over to it.

I expect this project to take a while, but here are some pictures to look at until the next update:

Jump ahead to April 2012:

Brett a · Nov 25, 2011

My first request for advice:

What is the best way to clean up the main bearing well and shaft? Belive me, I know the health of these parts is absolutely vital to quiet performance.

Could I use 000/fine steel wool and/or polishing compound? Navel jelly? Never-Dull? ---please advise.

I just thought this is a pretty picture:

Here's a shot of the full plinth from dnewma04's thread where he sold the tonearm:

beej · Nov 25, 2011

Really looking forward to seeing how it turns out. I've got one waiting in the wings for restoration as well. Good pics, btw.

Tarl Of Gor · Nov 25, 2011

Automotive valve guide brushes would probably work pretty good on the spindle well.

http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=45

bhundu · Nov 30, 2011

Saw your other, more recent thread re TA and had to research this one to see what you got. Congratulations. The size of that motor speaks volumes.

Perhaps you might have to start out with some 1200 wet and dry to get the oxidisation off the bearing well. One way would be to form a roll of the W&D and turn it in the direction that the "springiness" of the roll always pushes out evenly on the well surface. In my mind this may be the best.

Perhaps wrap some dowel with some W&D? I've done this with the blunt end of a round chopstick.

In conjuction, add a few drops of solvent. WD-40, IPA, contact cleaner.

Clean with IPA.

Finish using the same techniques using a metal polish and cloth instead of the W&D. Spend a week on it. Clean it all up with IPA and a fresh rag/Q-Tips.

The shaft doesn't need the first step. Just plenty of metal polish every time you sit down to watch TV. Just make sure there are no nicks or burs. Fingernail and fingertip test. If it's all good, both shaft and well should only have physical contact at the shaft point. Oil will be in the well offering a barrier between. The helix incisions on the shaft are designed to pull oil up into this gap.

Sorry if you already are on to this Brett. I should take the opportunity to thank you for your DIY RCM. To this day I use a very similar hand spun method.

Good luck!

Brett a · Nov 30, 2011

bhundu said:
Saw your other, more recent thread re TA and had to research this one to see what you got. Congratulations. The size of that motor speaks volumes.

Perhaps you might have to start out with some 1200 wet and dry to get the oxidisation off the bearing well. One way would be to form a roll of the W&D and turn it in the direction that the "springiness" of the roll always pushes out evenly on the well surface. In my mind this may be the best.

Perhaps wrap some dowel with some W&D? I've done this with the blunt end of a round chopstick.

In conjuction, add a few drops of solvent. WD-40, IPA, contact cleaner.

Clean with IPA.

Finish using the same techniques using a metal polish and cloth instead of the W&D. Spend a week on it. Clean it all up with IPA and a fresh rag/Q-Tips.

The shaft doesn't need the first step. Just plenty of metal polish every time you sit down to watch TV. Just make sure there are no nicks or burs. Fingernail and fingertip test. If it's all good, both shaft and well should only have physical contact at the shaft point. Oil will be in the well offering a barrier between. The helix incisions on the shaft are designed to pull oil up into this gap.

Sorry if you already are on to this Brett. I should take the opportunity to thank you for your DIY RCM. To this day I use a very similar hand spun method.

Good luck!

Thanks for the excellent advice. I have not started on it yet, and the process you lay out here seems wise. And best of all, I really love polishing things, so I'm going to get a lot of enjoyment just out of that!

And thanks for the kind words on the DIYRCM. I'm glad the thread is helpful to people.

drillher · Nov 30, 2011

I will be watching this since I recently bought a Rondine,Jr.I am interested to know if motor noise is coupled to the platter,as some claim is a problem with idlers.Thanks for posting!
Dave

drillher · Nov 30, 2011

Check out the ROKtips web site.They advise cleaning out the bearing well with lighter fluid.They also mention the need for a 1/4" ball bearing placed in the bearing well after it is cleaned.
Dave

Brett a · Nov 30, 2011

drillher said:
I will be watching this since I recently bought a Rondine,Jr.I am interested to know if motor noise is coupled to the platter,as some claim is a problem with idlers.
(...)
Check out the ROK tips web site.They advise cleaning out the bearing well with lighter fluid.They also mention the need for a 1/4" ball bearing placed in the bearing well after it is cleaned.
Dave

Thanks. I've read that site pretty thoroughly. I understand these can be quite quiet, and that is dependent on the plinth as well as fresh idler wheels.

And mine came with the ball bearing for the main well.

I love posting pictures (if you haven't figured that out yet) so will be adding them once I get going.

Redboy · Nov 30, 2011

Such a cool table.

Things to do:

Clean/ lube the bearing assembly
Replace the ball w/ a ceramic bearing
Replace the rubber grommets
Ensure idler wheels are perfectly round (you may need to send them out)
Tune up the motor (or at least clean it well)
Build a layered plinth

I don't know if this is a kosher way to do it or not, but I've cleaned out the bearing well with 0000 steel wool wrapped around a wooden dowel and then chucked into my drill press. Add WD40, then spin at lowest speed. Clean thoroughly.

I think the layered plinth is really important, and you could make a really simple one out of stacked plywood.

I'm looking forward to more photos! :thmbsp:

Brett a · Nov 30, 2011

Redboy said:
Such a cool table.

Things to do:

Build a layered plinth

Thanks, Nate. I've been reading up on plinth building and am subscribing to the belief that you don't want to over-dampen, so I'll go with layers of solid hardwood or some type of plywood as you said, avoiding MDF.

I'm thinking I might just build two by two different approaches so I can compare.

This is the part I'm really looking forward to. I'm able to use the wood shop at work after hours, so I've access to some really nice professional woodworking tools.

Ohighway · Nov 30, 2011

It's a good idea to clean precision assemblies using the least aggressive method that will obtain the desired results. Were it me clean out that well with chemicals (lighter fluid was mentioned) or a non abrasive chemical impregnated wadding like Nevr-dull. I'd only use abrasives as a last resort .....if all else failed. One of the problems is that even if the abrasives work and don't cause any damage, you still have to make absolutely, positively sure you remove all traces of the abrasive prior to reassembly.

Brett a · Nov 30, 2011

Ohighway said:
It's a good idea to clean precision assemblies using the least aggressive method that will obtain the desired results. Were it me clean out that well with chemicals (lighter fluid was mentioned) or a non abrasive chemical impregnated wadding like Nevr-dull. I'd only use abrasives as a last resort .....if all else failed. One of the problems is that even if the abrasives work and don't cause any damage, you still have to make absolutely, positively sure you remove all traces of the abrasive prior to reassembly.

That's good advice. I'm generally cautious about these things. I'll likely start with denatured alcohol follow by NeverDull and consider the resulting state of cleanliness my starting point.

I have many grades of abrasives around the house, from chrome polish to rubbing compound and about 5 points in between. Not to mention solvents like NeverDull, WD-40, Deoxit, gasoline, bicycle degreaser.

As for abrasive materials (should it come to that), I'd likely try a plastic scrubbie before steel. But I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

jeremyjustic · Nov 30, 2011

Brett a said:
Thanks, Nate. I've been reading up on plinth building and am subscribing to the belief that you don't want to over-dampen, so I'll go with layers of solid hardwood or some type of plywood as you said, avoiding MDF.

I'm thinking I might just build two by two different approaches so I can compare.

This is the part I'm really looking forward to. I'm able to use the wood shop at work after hours, so I've access to some really nice professional woodworking tools.

I used baltic birch for my garrard build, works great and easy to do (and all I have is basic powered hand tools) with professional woodworking tools it will be a snap! plinth building is a lot of fun, best of luck!

also if you still cant figure out how to post pics we can walk you through it, real easy

drillher · Nov 30, 2011

Do you have a source for a ceramic bearing and new grommets?Nice that you have access to wood working tools.

Brett a · Nov 30, 2011

drillher said:
Do you have a source for a ceramic bearing and new grommets?Nice that you have access to wood working tools.

I belive it came with a ceramic bearing. I was going to ask Redboy where he sourced his grommets.

jeremyjustic said:
(...) if you still cant figure out how to post pics we can walk you through it, real easy

Thanks for the offer. I'll let you know if I come up against any obstacles. (If I do, I'll post pictures of them)

Fasterdamnit · Nov 30, 2011

Looking good, Brett!

I sourced my ceramic bearing off the bay. :thmbsp:

bobbyonions · Dec 1, 2011

Hey Brett, following with interest. I'm not sure of your plan for the metal chassis, but if you fancy the idea of re-screening that text, let me know. We could snap some pictures, then I can make a cleaned up digital file to scale. From there we could make a screen and after a little R&D to make sure we're pulling nice copies from the screen, you could polish or paint that plate and reprint to look brand spankin' new. Dave.

Brett a · Dec 1, 2011

I just finished a first round of cleaning the main bearing.

I started with a denatured alcohol wipedown, followed by Never-Dull. Then after a thourough cleaning up of all that, I filled the well with Brasso, put the ball and platter in and kept it spinning for 20 minutes. I figured this way, it can polish itself. This worked great!

I cleaned all that up and put it back together with macine oil just to keep it nice until I get back to it.

More to follow.

And Dave, thanks for the offer to help re_letter the top plate. But I don't think I'm going that far especially considering the all the divots to the right of the control knob. It looks like it saw a lot of use by someone wearing a class ring or something.

bobbyonions · Dec 1, 2011

Brett a said:
And Dave, thanks for the offer to help re_letter the top plate. But I don't think I'm going that far especially considering the all the divots to the right of the control knob. It looks like it saw a lot of use by someone wearing a class ring or something.

That would be the point of the screen print; so you can polish or paint that plate to like-new, then re-print.

Cosmetics are obviously last on the list, but if you like the end results of the project enough to warrant a face lift, let me know.

Rek-O-Kut Rondine Jr. L-37 Restoration Begins.

~◦●○o0o○●◦~

Attachments

~◦●○o0o○●◦~

Attachments

Proud BaPa of G, A and AJ

AK Subscriber

Addicted Member

~◦●○o0o○●◦~

Super Member

Super Member

~◦●○o0o○●◦~

a few good watts

~◦●○o0o○●◦~

Wannabe Minimalist

~◦●○o0o○●◦~

Analog

Super Member

~◦●○o0o○●◦~

Super Member

AK Member

~◦●○o0o○●◦~

AK Member