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Sanyo TP 626 Rebuild

SziTech

SziTech

Member
Hi all, my first post after lurking for quite some time.

Found a neglected Sanyo TP 626 on Craig's List and after seeing some really nice rebuilds I decided to go for it.

Took it apart and cleaned it thoroughly. You should have seen the headshell! Someone actually tried to solder one of the lead wires, quite unsuccessfully I might add. The turntable was filthy!

Anyway, my question is; how do you remove the tonearm??? I see the two screws on each side but they seem to be set-screws of some sort set inside two other screws. They will not budge!

I have got them soaking in a little drop of 3-in-1 at the moment.

One of the reasons I am trying to remove the tonearm, besides further cleaning, is that the rod the counter weight rides on is loose and can only be tightened from the inside shaft of the tonearm. What luck, huh?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Sanyo TP-626: :D
TP%20626.jpg


Look at this soldering job! :thumbsdn:
Headshell.jpg


Set-screws on the side of tonearm pivot: :tears:
Tonearm.jpg


Thanks again!
 
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SziTech said:
Anyway, my question is; how do you remove the tonearm??? I see the two screws on each side but they seem to be set-screws of some sort set inside two other screws. They will not budge!
Click to expand...

They will budge if you loosen the outer locking collar and then the set screw. These screws are the pivot bearings for the tone arm. They must be adjusted very carefully and expertly, using special tools.

In other words, I'd advise you not to do it.

One of the reasons I am trying to remove the tonearm, besides further cleaning, is that the rod the counter weight rides on is loose and can only be tightened from the inside shaft of the tonearm. What luck, huh?
Click to expand...

Which shaft are you referring to? Is it the one projecting at right angles from the tonearm or the pivot screw for the weighted bell crank?

Also, how did you determine that the rod could only be tightened by disassembling the tonearm? It would seem to me that the bell crank pivot screw simply threads into the tonearm base. If I'm wrong and there's a nut inside the base (and it's not captive) disassembling the tonearm from the outside probably won't get you where you want to be. Removing the entire assembly from underneath would be my choice. If the shaft that's loose is the horizontal one,I'd guess it's either a press fit or it too is threaded.

Finally, in your photo the bell crank is out of position. The arm without the weight is supposed to be in front of the horizontal arm so that the weight is raised as the arm moves toward the spindle during play. You may know this but I thought it should be mentioned just in case.

John
 
Hi John! Thanks for chiming in. Many thanks for your advice.

boreas said:
Is it the one projecting at right angles from the tonearm or the pivot screw for the weighted bell crank?
Click to expand...

Nope, check out the highlighted picture. It is the rod for the counter balace weight not the anti-skate.

Tonearm_2.jpg


boreas said:
Also, how did you determine that the rod could only be tightened by disassembling the tonearm?
Click to expand...

Using my trusty desk magnifier, I was able to look down the pivot shaft and saw a Philips head screw!

boreas said:
It would seem to me that the bell crank pivot screw simply threads into the tonearm base. If I'm wrong and there's a nut inside the base (and it's not captive) disassembling the tonearm from the outside probably won't get you where you want to be.
Click to expand...

Correctamundo! Almost lost the minature nut under the housing removing it.

boreas said:
Finally, in your photo the bell crank is out of position. The arm without the weight is supposed to be in front of the horizontal arm so that the weight is raised as the arm moves toward the spindle during play. You may know this but I thought it should be mentioned just in case.
Click to expand...

Very good eye! :yes: Yup, noticed it was out of place. These were my first pix of the deck. It is now in pieces.

:thmbsp:
 
Just how loose is the counterweight stub? It is mounted in rubber and does have some flex to it.

I agree 100% with John, you don't want to disturb those bearing adjusters if you can avoid it. Unfortunately, the only way to get to the Phillips head screw that holds the stub on is to remove those adjuster screws (I have a TP 626 in front of me). On many arms you can loosen the arm tube and a screwdriver will go through the gimbal to the rear. On this one the hole for the tonearm wires doesn't go all the way through.

Try this: Remove the counterweight and try turning the stub clockwise. If the screw spins with the stub, lift the tonearm to widen the gap at the rear of the post and stuff a piece of rubber like a strip of inner tube into the gap and then lower the arm. That may create enough pressure on the screw to hold it in place while you turn the stub.

Just a thought... I ain't takin' mine apart to try it!
 
The stub is very loose unfortunately… lots of play. It does have a rubber grommet at the base entering the pivot.

Yes, I was actually thinking of getting a paper-clip down there to hold the head of the screw and then tightening up. Maybe, even removing it and putting a drop of Loc-Tite on that !@#$%^.
 
Hey SziTech did you get that from someone in Algiers. If so that's the one i have been after. But i live in Baton rouge. And that a far drive. Well good luck.
 
Funny, yup, one and the same!

The guy in Algiers runs a chiropractic clinic. The place looks like an antique shop inside! Tons of old cameras, a room full of records. He was certainly a colorful character.

If you have ever been inside the Saturn Bar on St. Claude, you have an idea what his place looks like. :)

I actually found a nice Sansui deck in Baton Rouge. It would have been worth the drive but it was sold by the time they replied.
 
yep small world ehh. I spoke to the guy over the phone and yes he was colorful indeed. Personally I know vary little about the west bank accept for six flags looks like a waist land. So tell me was it worth the money ?
 
Only time will tell. I bought this as a project thing. I actually have a VPI Scout as my main table.

The deck was filthy as hell; the cartridge was an old Audio Technica TA-10 with the stylus looking like Capt. Hook's hand! You saw the headshell solder job. Most of the exposed metal shows oxidation of some sort.

Surprisingly enough, it runs smooth and the internals look great as compared to the outside.

Was it worth it? Sure. There is one now on eBay now for $100. I paid less than a third of that.

I plan to clean / polish it as best I can and then build a nicer heftier base like I have seen here on the forum.

It will require a lot of luv for sure!
 
Tonearm counter weight rod problem solved!

I finally got around to solving the issue with my sagging tonearm counter weight rod.

While tilting the tonearm up a bit, I was able to get a trusty paper clip down the pivot to keep the screw holding the counter balance rod steady.

BINGO!

One drop of Loctite later, that bad boy will stay seated!

The problem, be a loose screw down there: :tears:

problem.jpg


Trusty paper clip tool: :D

tool.jpg


Poor access: :sigh:

access.jpg


Success! :thmbsp:

success.jpg


:banana:
 
I have one of these tables and it's C.L.E.A.N. and plays quite well that I might add... Mine seemed to be playing slow... and I heard that it could be because the belt was loose it makes everything slow down. Really doesn't make sense if you have any concept of physics... but then again it fixed it so maybe it was slipping a little bit? It was quite loose and needed it anyway. It's a very nice table congrats on the score.
 
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