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Luxman L-100U Recap

CohibaJoe

CohibaJoe

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While my Kenwood M2A vs Onkyo M-504 shootout is going...I just got in a Very Nice and Clean Luxman L-100U.

I have been looking at a number of threads on this unit for any Mods/Updates.

So I am putting this out....HELP me create a list on what I can do.

First....After a nice DeoxIt bath...Everything is Working on the unit. No Snaps or Pops.

This is what I have seen out there: And again Please...Your feedback on what else I should do.

1. PB-647 replace R933 with 1/2 or 1w 560ohm
2. PB-647 What is the replacement for Relay MAT 2B-CR?
3. Should I replace the 15000uf 80v with Vishay / BC Components? Those Caps are the Biggest I have seen. They also look fine.
4. Replace All the Tantalum
5. Any Noisy Transistors to replace? Model #?
6. Re-Solder/Re-Flow joints and connections
7. Caps to use...Panasonic FR/FM and FC, Nichicon ES Bi-Polar, ELNA SILMIC II in Audio Path
 

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Be careful as you dig into the faceplate and find out how the touch mute is wired. On my C-1000 there is a wire to the volume control that is attached until the control is moved too far away. Easy soldered tab fix though.
 
Blue Shadow said:
Be careful as you dig into the faceplate and find out how the touch mute is wired. On my C-1000 there is a wire to the volume control that is attached until the control is moved too far away. Easy soldered tab fix though.
Click to expand...
I see this and the 2 wires are attached...Now I need to find out how to take this off.
 
Couple of possible additions to your list:

1) The L-100 has a wack of VD1221 double diodes---these are the ones that cause all kinds of havoc in the Sony VFET gear and are recommended to be replaced with a series pair of 1n4148's

2) The 2sc1345 is often flagged as a possible transistor for replacement. There are quite a few of these in the L-100

Steve.
 
Starting to put together the Cap list. I will be changing the Big Cans..:tears: They do look nice!!!! But there OLD...

Again...Any Problem areas on what to replace????

Replacement Items:

Big Cans: Vishay/BC Components 15000uf 100v
Resistor: PB-647 replace R933 with 1/2w 560ohm
Caps: Panasonic FR/FM and FC, Nichicon ES Bi-Polar, ELNA SILMIC II in Audio Path

Still looking for a Relay replacement and any Noisy Transistors?
 
SteveP said:
Couple of possible additions to your list:

1) The L-100 has a wack of VD1221 double diodes---these are the ones that cause all kinds of havoc in the Sony VFET gear and are recommended to be replaced with a series pair of 1n4148's

2) The 2sc1345 is often flagged as a possible transistor for replacement. There are quite a few of these in the L-100

Steve.
Click to expand...
OK...Will look into this....
 
How to remove the Volume Knob:

1. The Volume Knob is held with 2 set screws.
2. Un-solder the Red and Black wire.

That's it....
 

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A board is not listed in the Service Manual Parts list: PB-638 Touch Mute/Filter

As you can see....There are a few Tantalum's...:nono:

(14) 25v 4.7uf - Will use Nichicon KL...But maybe I should go with WIMA MKS2 :scratch2:
(2) 35v .47uf - Will use Panasonic ECQ Stacked Film
Caps: ELNA SILMIC II
 

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SteveP said:
Couple of possible additions to your list:

1) The L-100 has a wack of VD1221 double diodes---these are the ones that cause all kinds of havoc in the Sony VFET gear and are recommended to be replaced with a series pair of 1n4148's

2) The 2sc1345 is often flagged as a possible transistor for replacement. There are quite a few of these in the L-100

Steve.
Click to expand...
Checked a few threads.....

VD1221 replace with: (2) 1N4148 in series for each VD1221
2SC1345 replace with: BC550C

This Luxman is keeping me busy.....
 
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Yes, there is quite a lot to do on this one. I've got one I want to do also; maybe I should bump a few things and get at it while you are working on yours. Even if I did I expect you'd be much faster than me.

Good luck with it!

Steve.
 
Fortunately, that board is in the schematic, but not listed with the parts or the trace views. With all your experience I doubt that is enough to slow you down.
 
SteveP said:
Yes, there is quite a lot to do on this one. I've got one I want to do also; maybe I should bump a few things and get at it while you are working on yours. Even if I did I expect you'd be much faster than me.

Good luck with it!

Steve.
Click to expand...
Please add to this...

Blue Shadow said:
Fortunately, that board is in the schematic, but not listed with the parts or the trace views. With all your experience I doubt that is enough to slow you down.
Click to expand...
What...Slow me down...:no:...I am with this one looking at the threads related to issues and upgrades.

I will just be a wee slower....Once this is done...I have a SX-1250 (got last Nov) that is next in line.
 
Equalizer Stage Board PB-636

I am going to replace the Films on the board. Looking at Vishay, WIMA and Dayton Audio.

I have used WIMA MKP10 when called for and these are Very Nice..They do need weeks of Burn-In. The Dayton Audio have use these in my Speaker Crossovers upgrades. Again, after a few weeks...Rich Bass and Smooth Mids-Highs...What a Nice sounding Cap!!!!!

Vishay are 1.2uf/250V 5% never have used.

Since the Orig. films are 1.2uf/250v....The WIMA MKP10 are 1.0uf/250v 5% and Dayton Audio are 1.0uf or 1.5uf/250v 10%.

Any issue on using 1.0uf or 1.5uf????

Caps: ELNA SILMIC II
Tantalum: Replaced with Nichicon KL
Film: TBD
 

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Can you tell if the originals are mylar (polyethylene, polyester) or polypropylene films? It may be possible to research the markings on the originals to find out. If they are polypropylene I would probably leave them be.

If you decide to replace them please note that at every position there are 2 1.2 uF's used in parallel (for a capacitance of 2.4 uF). Each pair could be replaced by a single cap; 2.2, 2.4, or 2.7 would probably be fine.

Steve
 
SteveP said:
Can you tell if the originals are mylar (polyethylene, polyester) or polypropylene films? It may be possible to research the markings on the originals to find out. If they are polypropylene I would probably leave them be.

If you decide to replace them please note that at every position there are 2 1.2 uF's used in parallel (for a capacitance of 2.4 uF). Each pair could be replaced by a single cap; 2.2, 2.4, or 2.7 would probably be fine.

Steve
Click to expand...
Here are the Pics...

NTK Metalized Film...So I should be fine with Vishay, WIMA and Dayton Audio.

Since the Board is easy to work on...Will first try:
1. WIMA
2. Dayton Audio
3. Vishay

Making the Finale list.
 

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Parts List: For the Films, I am going to start with WIMA. Will see how it goes as I my goto Dayton Audio...will see.

PB-647 Power Supply Board
Caps: Panasonic FC, Nichicon ES Bi-Polar
Resistor: R933 1/2w 560ohm, R943 1/4w 47ohm
Relay: Magnecraft 782XBXC-24D (need to cut down pins)

PB-649 Power Board
Caps: Panasonic FC
Film: WIMA
Diode: VD1221 replace with (2) 1N4148 in series

PB-636 Equalizer Board
Caps: ELNA SILMIC II, Nichicon KL (replace the Tantalum)
Film: WIMA
Diode: VD1221 replace with (2) 1N4148 in series
Transistor: 2SC1345 replace with: BC550CTA

PB-638 Touch Mute/Filter
Caps: ELNA SILMIC II
Transistor: 2SC1345 replace with: BC550CTA

PB-639 Tone Amp
Caps: ELNA SILMIC II, Nichicon KL (replace the Tantalum)
Diode: VD1221 replace with (2) 1N4148 in series

PB-640 Flat Amp
Caps: ELNA SILMIC II, Nichicon KL (replace the Tantalum)
Transistor: 2SC1345 replace with: BC550CTA

PB-645 Winker
Caps: Panasonic FC

Big Cans
Vishay/BC Components 15000uf 100v
 
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What's the plan for the actual replacement sequence? I'd suggest the electrolytics be swapped first. Then listen to it for a bit. Next, swap out one transistor in each channel on a board. Start with the output end of the board and work backwards through the signal chain alternating between swapping out one device on both channels then listening.

I did this with 2 McIntosh C28s and MX-110s. It really helped me understand the impact of the various parts on the performance improvements. The other thing it did was to allow me to catch mistakes or unintentional failures due to the rework itself.

I'd have to have had to chase mistakes like that after a wholesale swapout.

Cheers,

David
 
dshoaf said:
What's the plan for the actual replacement sequence? I'd suggest the electrolytics be swapped first. Then listen to it for a bit. Next, swap out one transistor in each channel on a board. Start with the output end of the board and work backwards through the signal chain alternating between swapping out one device on both channels then listening.


David
Click to expand...

I like this. It almost sounds like hot swapping the transistors as you are listening. That would be nice. The heck with blind tests, hot swap test the new standard in recapping/transistor upgrades and diode replacements. Probably let the value of those high speed components be heard.





For those that don't know better this is not something to try. It will destroy your unit and possible kill the tech doing the swaps. Don't work on live electrical gear. Do I even need to say this? Really?
 
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