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full wave rectifier vs rectifier as a time delay

gadget73

junk junkie
Subscriber
Not really sure what to call this exactly, but its just an attempt at putting some data to speculation. Recently there was a thread where the subject of re-wiring the Dyna ST-70 rectifier to convert it from conventional full wave operation to use as a ballast and what effect that may have on the current capacity of the tube. I don't have an ST-70, but I have a Pilot SA-260 which is close enough to use as a test dummy.

The setup. First, lets see what the SA-260 power supply looks like. This is the exact schematic in use for mine, the values in red represent a change from stock. Its pretty close to as-designed, just with some values shifted for availability reasons.

260 schematic_PSU.jpg

As you can see its a conventional full wave rectifier setup using parallel 5U4GB tubes. None of the rest of it particularly matters for this discussion, but the rest of the amp is a push-pull EL34 ultralinear amp with 3 12a*7 tubes as the driver. Not grossly dissimilar from various Dyna ST-70 configurations. It also biases the tubes at 50ma per, exactly like the Dynaco does.

First, to set the stage for this I did a slightly modified version of the "yellow sheet mod", pictured here

TubeRectifier-DiodeMod-1.jpg

Instead of a single 4007, I used two in series to make sure I had sufficient PIV available for the next part of this. The UF4007 was chosen on the basis of one unique property that it alone possesses: I had them on hand.

So with the stage set, lets see what we get. Before each test, the output tube bias was confirmed at 50ma per-tube after a 5 minute warm up period. All voltages measured at the junction of R48, L1, and C1A. This is marked as 430v on the schematic. Voltage supply as measured with my meter is 116vac. 5U4GB are old production RCA. The 5AR4 are new production Sovtek.

Stock with the 5U4GB
idle voltage: 400v
22 watts output: 367v
difference: 9%

5U4GB with pins 4 and 6 jumped together
idle voltage: 415v
22w output: 386v
difference 7.5%

5AR4
idle voltage 425v
22w output 399v
difference: 6.5%

5AR4 with 4 and 6 jumped
idle: 432v
22w output 406v
difference: 6.4%

As you can see with both rectifier types a bump in voltage is evident at idle and at power output. 22 watts both channels driven was picked simply because thats where it started clipping with the stock rectifiers. There may be some other issue here since the voltages check in low, but thats a problem for a different time. Regulation showed more difference with the 5U4GB than the 5AR4.

I suppose I could try and see if other pairs of 5U4GB clock in with similar results but I don't know how many pairs I have. I do not have more pairs of 5AR4 though so unless someone wants to send me a box of them for testing, this is all I can do. I'm a little too cowardly to try this with a single rectifier but its possible there would be a more obvious difference there.

comments and further data welcome, but lets not turn this into a which magical rectifier or diode will solve all our problems thread.
 
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Hmm those results are more or less what I would have expected, although I didn’t have a feel for the percentage improvement until now.

Nice.
 
I've seen this "yellow sheet mod" discussed many times,,, usually talking about the using diodes to buffer or protect the tubes(s)... Never gave a thought to it raising usable B+,,, which could become handy when trying to use a PT with a bit less HV voltage on a project,,,
Thanks for the effort...
 
In its usual form the yellow sheet mod won't affect B+. When you jump the plates together it does give it a bump though.

I actually may remove the mod entirely tonight and compare what the as-built supply output looks like. I'm sort of curious if it has any negative effect.
 
Guess I'm confused as usual! So, the yellow page mod schem you posted is not the one you tested with? Did you just use two diodes in series, or are there other wiring changes? Can you post a schem of what you use for the test,,, Thanks...
 
Guess I'm confused as usual! So, the yellow page mod schem you posted is not the one you tested with? Did you just use two diodes in series, or are there other wiring changes? Can you post a schem of what you use for the test,,, Thanks...

He is testing using a variation of the yellow sheet mod, where the rectifier's two plates are also combined with a jumper to essentially form one plate.



What I am interested in is how does it affect the final sound. I view it as basically solid state rectification, with the tubes as a delay and ballast. The current benefits are from the diodes, and combining the plates helps reduce what the tube takes. The delay the tube adds is it's remaining benefit. When I have compared straight solid state vs straight tube rectification's effect on the sound, I found I actually preferred the tube rectification. Does this mod sound more like solid state rectification or tubes?

That is presently what keeps me from doing this mod. In my case for amp safety I use a power plug that disconnects if the power drops off significantly, to prevent a hot start condition.

Bill
 
What is the estimated current draw @ 22W, both channels driven? Does it stress the original arrangement as does the Dyna 70?
 
He is testing using a variation of the yellow sheet mod, where the rectifier's two plates are also combined with a jumper to essentially form one plate.Bill
Thanks,,, but the plates are connected together, as the tubes are in parallel... Wouldn't a jumper cause a dead short? What if there is only one tube? Reading comprehension failure on my part I guess!! A simple schem may clear it up!
Thanks for replying...
 
Thanks,,, but the plates are connected together, as the tubes are in parallel... Wouldn't a jumper cause a dead short? What if there is only one tube? Reading comprehension failure on my part I guess!! A simple schem may clear it up!
Thanks for replying...
Without the diodes, yes.
OP, Thnx for starting this thread!
 
What is the estimated current draw @ 22W, both channels driven? Does it stress the original arrangement as does the Dyna 70?

Didn't measure current draw but it specifies idle at 200ma total, exactly like the ST-70. Its pretty reasonable to assume total current draw is similar to an ST-70. Being paralleled rectifiers, it doesn't stress anything. Offhand I think the transformers are higher Z too, so if anything its got slightly less current draw. Stock this thing has 550ma of steady-state rectifier capability vs 250ma in an ST-70.

What I am interested in is how does it affect the final sound.

Thats not an easily measured thing, so I'm not going to attempt to answer it. This was purely to put some data to whether running the plates in parallel might increase the current capacity of the rectifier tube in amps that work it too hard. Everyone is going to have their own opinion on what sounds best so its not really something that can ever be decisively agreed on.


Guess I'm confused as usual! So, the yellow page mod schem you posted is not the one you tested with? Did you just use two diodes in series, or are there other wiring changes? Can you post a schem of what you use for the test,,, Thanks...

take the yellow sheet, add a wire between pins 4 and 6 on the rectifier socket, and thats what I used to get the "paralleled" numbers. The lower voltage numbers are taken with the yellow sheet as-drawn, the higher numbers are with the jumper in place. I just stuck a clip wire on the bottom of the rectifier socket, nothing fancy at all.
 
I know, I think something else is going on here but I didn't have time to dig further. AC into the rectifier measured lower than the schematic but not sure why. Heater voltage was right on the money. I'll look at it further at another time but that wasn't what I was looking to test. I didn't think to check the voltages before installing the diodes, but I'll get those numbers at some point. Will be interesting if it turns out the diodes are causing problems.

I only used this because of my tube rectified amps, it uses the most current so it should be the most suited to show any differences that might exist. Everything else uses basically half as much current, or its a goofy rectifier setup that doesn't really translate over very well.
 
Great job Gadget -- Were you using a single set of diodes to drive both rectifiers -- or double sets, as in one set for each tube?

The 22 watts obtained at the onset of clipping with both channels driven is definitely low. For reference, operating from a 121 vac power line, my early version SA260 would produce 30 watts RMS in both channels with both channels driven from 20 Hz to 20 kHz -- although THD at the frequency extremes rose considerably.

Dave
 
Nice - this is a cheap way to cut the rectifier loss in half!! I bet you can also now double the first filter capacitor without any negative consequence, since the peak current is now spread over two diodes in parallel rather than just one. The voltage will recover better after peaks too.. this is really a nice power supply upgrade for pennies. It shouldn't be used on guitar amps though, since sag is part of the sound in that case.
 
Great job Gadget -- Were you using a single set of diodes to drive both rectifiers -- or double sets, as in one set for each tube?

The 22 watts obtained at the onset of clipping with both channels driven is definitely low. For reference, operating from a 121 vac power line, my early version SA260 would produce 30 watts RMS in both channels with both channels driven from 20 Hz to 20 kHz -- although THD at the frequency extremes rose considerably.

Dave
One wonders what the Dyna 70 would comparatively bench with the doubled mod.
 
One wonders what the Dyna 70 would comparatively bench with the doubled mod.

Half way between the stock rectifier, and a solid state rectifier. The extra power though wouldn't be audible, but what might be is slightly better recovery after transients. I think it's worth a try, it is certainly easy to reverse. Too bad I don't use any tube rectified amplifiers anymore.
 
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