I used to redo twist-lok-lytics back in the day. I was usually successful at using wire cutters to gently uncurl the lip at the bottom that held the bakelite terminal base and grounding twist tab ringlet in place. Then it was pick, pick, pick all the gobbletygook out of the thing. Heat would sometimes help ease things along, but only in a ventilated area so I didn't have to cope with the fumes quite so much....
Then arrange axial capacitors with sleeving on their leads in such a way that they'd fit in the can and lead out to the proper terminals. I usually ran out the common ground lead as well through a fresh drilling in the bakelite base to run to one of the twistlok terminals to ensure a proper connection. Then I'd mix up almost the entire two-tube package of epoxy and fill the can of new caps, then connect the free lead ends to the terminals in the bakelite wafer base, then more epoxy as I stuffed the mess back together and then carefully rolled the aluminum back over the edge of the base wafer to hold it in place. If the rerolling was not as neat it didn't matter, as only the chassis plate would see it.... The fix would usually look pretty original in appearance when done.
That was then, and this is now. Age tends to cause such ambition to wane. Mostly I just leave the old can as it is, disconnect all the ungrounded terminals, and set up an array of separates underneath the chassis. There are many other things in my life to hold my attention and consume my energy that weren't there when I was a kid and doing such exacting resto work.
