Kappa 9 crossover connections

S

Superampman

AK Member
So I need some help re-connecting the crossovers after receiving them back from being rebuilt. I left short leads on the board with a piece of masking tape on each to number them. I also numbered the other side before I cut them. After hooking them back up all I get is some mid range sound from both. So I'm assuming they rearranged the tape? Anyway, they've been idle for a number of years now and I'd like to get them operating. All I need is for someone to identify the connections on the board. They're lined up on one side. 12 in total, so 6 drivers(woofers are together). TIA
 
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Are the factory color bands missing? There should have been one at each end of each cable, one at the driver end and one at the crossover end.
 
seifreit said:
Are the factory color bands missing? There should have been one at each end of each cable, one at the driver end and one at the crossover end.
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Sure but I still don't know where the cut ends connect to the board. At this point I'm not even sure this guy installed the $700.00 worth of parts I got from partsconnexion correctly. I sent them to a guy in Alberta advertising on CAM. I did not get in contact with him after cuz I was seriously pissed off and didn't want to deal with him anymore. So they've been sitting idle since.
 
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So I got them hooked up correctly. Some of the color bands had fallen off but the board itself has id markings in the traces themselves. The problem now is there is a prominent hum/noise coming from both speakers. I tried two different amps with the same result. I tried a pair of Leach Superamp monos and a White Audio Labs A100. Very disappointing. I did not go over the crossovers to check if they were put together properly, ie: correct locations.
 

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Thanks, I have the schematic. I was hoping for the best to not have to tear down the crossovers. Not sure where I'll go from here.
 
Right, but I would still have to pull them apart since there are components in between the boards. From the sound of them it sounds like the woofers are playing almost full range.
 
He may have taken C19(2000uf needle thump cap) and L12 (15mh amp eater)out of the woofer circuit making it sound less muffled ( and more amp friendly) but L11 (12.5mh) should knock off the woofer highs. I suspect by looking at the soldering he attempted to use lead free solder or silver solder meant for jewelry repair which is harder to work with than ordinary 60/40 lead solder which may not have flowed as expected. . Conventional soldering may be the cure. That's a nice pile of expensive caps you have there. At a glance I do not think he shorted you on the caps. I would open some correspondence with him and hear what he might suggest.
Failing that I would add a dab of flux to copper web solder remover to soak up the solder beads then melt in some 60/40 and see if that helps. I was very bad at soldering till I got a laser temp reader ($28 on sale) and discovered I had my cheap Chinese soldering station temp was set too low. Had to max the dial for regular solder use. Now I have improved to Barely Adequate.(got my BA ). Thin 2% silver content works like regular solder. I am sure there is lots of folks out there with way more knowledge on this than I .
 
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I know high ratio silver solder. It's obvious he used eutectic. Instructions were to simply remove and replace. I'm sure he goofed up. I've gone in there 3 times now. The fun is gone. The thing is I've refoamed the woofers myself because the goofball I took them to in Toronto, aka...Fab Audio, didn't have the correct surrounds and trimmed others that didn't belong so they would work. My work is such that they now look and function as new. The emits are pristine with no hot spots/kinks, and especially the polydomes, incredibly, are as new, clear and supple. So they are a veritable time capsule. Even through the noise they sound world class. I wanted to upgrade them. So much for that, eh.
 
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