Question about Kyocera cd player

Tboned

Tboned

2-channel convert
I'm going to look at this model this afternoon. Any inputs as to this model/brand? as I'm looking for a nicer vintage single play CDP that has a nice transport and and decent sound.

Thanks !

Up for sale is a near mint condition vintage Kyocera single disc player! This is the model da-610cx which cost about $500.00 when it first came out! This player functions perfect and comes with the original manual and remote! They don't make them like this anymore. There is nothing but top quality parts in this thing and it will probably last forever! It is champagne in color with beautiful wood sides! I am asking $50.00 obo. Thanks.

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I used to work at a hi-fi store that sold Kyocera. While the stuff was good, you'll need to know that you can get parts. A chassis that is built to last forever does not mean that the CD player will last forever. The laser diode, the heart of the optics, will degrade with hours played. Sometimes you get lucky and it seems as if it will last forever. Disc motors and belts will fail too. Kyocera is a huge company and hi-fi was just a tiny blip on their corporate radar. I'd think it risky, but $50.00 bucks is pretty cheap. Maybe you'll get lucky?
 
I figured if I can get it for 40$ with the remote and manual I'll take the leap. I'm taking a cd I burned at the house to see if it'll play it. I'll be sure to post some better pics if i do get it. Thanks for the advice.
 
If it plays the 'burned' CD, I'd be surprised. That player preceeded burnable CD's and most of the older players (in good working condition) won't play 'burned' discs. If it plays it, it's a good indication that the optical assembly is really healthy. If it doesn't play it, it doesn't mean very much. I'd bring a scratchy CD that gives other players fits and see how much can be played on the Kyocera. Also, play it all the way through. ....or at least step through all of the songs. If it plays the first 20 seconds, it still might have problems with the traverse motor, or the disc motor.
 
I have a DA-510CX I bought new many years ago. It lasted about 3 years then stopped playing. I still have it around with hopes of getting it working again. The reality of it is that it is just a space eater.
 
spartanmanor said:
I have a DA-510CX I bought new many years ago. It lasted about 3 years then stopped playing. I still have it around with hopes of getting it working again. The reality of it is that it is just a space eater.
Click to expand...

Small world it seems...Jeff, the guy selling the unit, calls me just minutes ago and says a fellow local AK'er called him about this thread and that he was looking for a cd player to match his Kyocera reciever. I can't deny a guy wanting to do a matching set on such a rare brand, so I gave up my "first dibs" spot and I'll find another one. (I wasn't looking for this brand specific) Karma is what this site is about, so i hope it comes back to me eventually. .


oh...this unit does play burned CD's...aaaggghhh.
 
I have one and bought it mostly for looks, I think the styling is very classy and unique. The tray on these is belt driven and would have needed replacement now or soon. It requires some disassembly, not just a matter of slipping it on. It does track CD-Rs, but mine has other tracking issues. It will always play straight through when you put a disc in and hit play, but try to jump from one track to another and it hangs up. All in all, I don't think the sound out of it is anything special.
 
I own three different models of these decks, the 4,6 and another. I have had good results with all of them after a little cleanup. They play CDRs with little trouble. It needs the usual replacement of belts etc. but sounds pretty good!!
 
no1maestro said:
I own three different models of these decks, the 4,6 and another. I have had good results with all of them after a little cleanup. They play CDRs with little trouble. It needs the usual replacement of belts etc. but sounds pretty good!!
Click to expand...

Mine started early on skipping. Any ideas?
 
This is a manual adjustment procedure to improve tracking, use at own risk:

If you have good hearing, but no 'scope, there is an alternative method for
adjusting E-F / focus balance. First pick a commercial (pressed) disc that's
in less-than-perfect condition. Not so badly scratched that there are going
to be playability issues with it, but normal day to day scuffs and light
scratches. Start it playing and get to around the middle of the disc. Now
turn up the focus gain (normally clockwise on the pot, but not always) and
if necessary, the tracking gain until you can hear the laser assembly
'hissing'. You will need to put your ear quite close to the deck to hear it,
and it will be virtually non-existent on a 'perfect' disc, so don't use one.
You should not need to go more than 3/4 the way up on either of the gain
pots to get a clear hiss. Now, listening closely, carefully rock the E-F
balance pot a few degrees either side of its current position. If the servo
loses lock because you go too far, just return the pot to approximately
where it was. The servo will normally recover lock, and the disc will
continue to play. You should be able to hear a clearly defined 'dip' in the
level of the hiss. Maximum dip - minimum hiss - is the correct setting for
the E-F balance. If you have a focus balance pot as well, you can adjust
this in the same fashion, to further minimise the noise. Finally, return the
gain pots to their original settings. You can leave them up a little to
improve the shock handling of the deck, but you will get a higher physical
noise level from it, which if you have got good hearing, may be audible on
quiet music passages, even with the player's covers on.

Finally, if there is a pot called "PLL" or something similar (normally away
from the others) DO NOT alter its setting, as there is a procedure involving
disabling the loop and using a frequency counter, which must be adhered to
exactly, to correctly set this control. Also, DO NOT touch any pot that is
actually on the laser itself, and which is likely paint sealed.
 
lukiedog said:
This is a manual adjustment procedure to improve tracking, use at own risk:

If you have good hearing, but no 'scope, there is an alternative method for
adjusting E-F / focus balance. First pick a commercial (pressed) disc that's
in less-than-perfect condition. Not so badly scratched that there are going
to be playability issues with it, but normal day to day scuffs and light
scratches. Start it playing and get to around the middle of the disc. Now
turn up the focus gain (normally clockwise on the pot, but not always) and
if necessary, the tracking gain until you can hear the laser assembly
'hissing'. You will need to put your ear quite close to the deck to hear it,
and it will be virtually non-existent on a 'perfect' disc, so don't use one.
You should not need to go more than 3/4 the way up on either of the gain
pots to get a clear hiss. Now, listening closely, carefully rock the E-F
balance pot a few degrees either side of its current position. If the servo
loses lock because you go too far, just return the pot to approximately
where it was. The servo will normally recover lock, and the disc will
continue to play. You should be able to hear a clearly defined 'dip' in the
level of the hiss. Maximum dip - minimum hiss - is the correct setting for
the E-F balance. If you have a focus balance pot as well, you can adjust
this in the same fashion, to further minimise the noise. Finally, return the
gain pots to their original settings. You can leave them up a little to
improve the shock handling of the deck, but you will get a higher physical
noise level from it, which if you have got good hearing, may be audible on
quiet music passages, even with the player's covers on.

Finally, if there is a pot called "PLL" or something similar (normally away
from the others) DO NOT alter its setting, as there is a procedure involving
disabling the loop and using a frequency counter, which must be adhered to
exactly, to correctly set this control. Also, DO NOT touch any pot that is
actually on the laser itself, and which is likely paint sealed.
Click to expand...

Thanks I will give this a try. :thmbsp:
 
Kyocera made some nice kit.

These units are up in age, so may not be "cutting edge" in terms of sound, but are still a great sounding unit and worthy of picking up. No question on that.


Kyocera used ceramics to isolate these players.


Interestingly, a favored sushi knife manufactured today is the ceramic models made by Kyocera.
 
I have the 710 of that series. As Deli said, they made some excellent kit. It is my pick of all the CDP's I've owned - mostly MOTL Marantz and Pioneer.

The caps on some of the boards are encased in form-fitted acrylic (clear, anyway) jackets.

Thanks for the adjustment procedure, lukiedog.
 
spartanmanor said:
Mine started early on skipping. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Before you 'tweak' anything clean the laser off with a dry Q-Tip.

I bought a 310 at an estate sale for $7 not too long ago but the remote was lost. It plays CD-R's just fine. Of course, it will depend on what burned the CD-R in the first place.
 
Blast said:
Before you 'tweak' anything clean the laser off with a dry Q-Tip.

I bought a 310 at an estate sale for $7 not too long ago but the remote was lost. It plays CD-R's just fine. Of course, it will depend on what burned the CD-R in the first place.
Click to expand...

I will try this as well. To be honest I probably have less than 200 hours on this unit. I started to crap out early on. Otherwise it is in mint shape and I do need a cd player.
 
spartanmanor said:
I will try this as well. To be honest I probably have less than 200 hours on this unit. I started to crap out early on. Otherwise it is in mint shape and I do need a cd player.
Click to expand...

I have heard good things from many people on how good the Kyo's sound. I just picked mine up not too long ago. I put it on my desk on a 25w/ch amp and Infinity RS-2000's (6" woofers) because that's where I needed one. So I have not had a chance to hear it on my big system turned up LOUD!
Brian
 
The unit in question belongs to me. This paticular unit plays AWESOME and has no skipping, tracking or problems with playing CD-R's!! It actually can hang with my yamaha units when it comes to sound quality! Must have something to do with the triple laser it uses! I am only passing it on cause I no longer have silver faced units to match it to.
 
A few more tips if you decide to "go in." DO NOT adjust the "offset pots" which are labeled F-OFF or E-OFF. Setting them properly would require the service manual and a scope.

The Kyocera models have issues with the suspension sagging. The disc will scrape while playing, so listen for it. Mine scrapes on startup, but goes away. You can stretch the spring out a bit to improve things.

I could not find the Focus and Tracking gains on my unit (I have the 310 I think). The E-F adjustment is there and might be the only one you can do.

My unit has the Sony KSS-152A laser. The KSS-213B and 240A might have been used in some models. These two are notoriously troublesome and most likely need to be replaced. DO NOT touch any of the adjustments on the laser unit. Sony lasers can be found cheap, MAT carries some. You want to use a genuine Sony and not some knock-off, best to ask and make sure that is what you'll get if you order a replacement.

Inspect the plastic gearing for debris, hair or broken teeth.

If you take out and change the belt, I'd like to know the proper replacement size so I can order it ahead of time.


spartanmanor said:
Thanks I will give this a try. :thmbsp:
Click to expand...
 
lukiedog said:
A few more tips if you decide to "go in." DO NOT adjust the "offset pots" which are labeled F-OFF or E-OFF. Setting them properly would require the service manual and a scope.

The Kyocera models have issues with the suspension sagging. The disc will scrape while playing, so listen for it. Mine scrapes on startup, but goes away. You can stretch the spring out a bit to improve things.

I could not find the Focus and Tracking gains on my unit (I have the 310 I think). The E-F adjustment is there and might be the only one you can do.

My unit has the Sony KSS-152A laser. The KSS-213B and 240A might have been used in some models. These two are notoriously troublesome and most likely need to be replaced. DO NOT touch any of the adjustments on the laser unit. Sony lasers can be found cheap, MAT carries some. You want to use a genuine Sony and not some knock-off, best to ask and make sure that is what you'll get if you order a replacement.

Inspect the plastic gearing for debris, hair or broken teeth.

If you take out and change the belt, I'd like to know the proper replacement size so I can order it ahead of time.
Click to expand...

I appreciate that advice! Thanks! Wasn't that 152A available as an after-market? The number seems to ring a bell, maybe I'm wrong.
Brian
 
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