here you go
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bowtie427ss
Lunatic Member
Nice but pricey
Thanks, I'd look into that more but I am currently trying to figure out how to buy a Hafler amp and preamp I just found for sale locally, need to focus my funds on that right now
Sold a few sets of speakers & some other gear, dropped the remainder in cash and brought this beast home. Had it hooked up to my home built speakers for a bit, sounding pretty good. Time to shuffle through a few of my remaining speakers and see what I have. This amp has lighted left and right clip warnings, I am guessing that these would be more effective at keeping from clipping than any VU Meter ever could. Still likely to get a VU Meter eventually for its actual purpose, eye candy
More to come in some not yet chosen component thread.
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This was supposed to post in the previous entry but somehow ended up as a separate post, now I don't see how to delete it
You can't lol, only a mod can do that
nice amp
Thanks, having an issue with the right channel but hopefully the shop I bought it from will sort that out. Seems to be in the preamp. My Fisher Studio Standard 2120 has a preamp out(ish); strickly speaking they call it "Control (output), and Power (input)" respectively. Brought that in from the woodshop, time to see if the problem goes away. Hopefully I'm doing this right, never really played around with loops much more than tape loops. Assuming loops are loops?
no, tape loops are a fixed output, and why it's not feesable to utilize them for a powered subwoofer, power amp, etc.
How about going from Tape Out on a receiver to Aux In on an amplifier/preamp?
It would depend on the output of the tape out and input sensitivity of the aux in, there's a reason some have pre out/main in, and these Kenwoods were designed to be utilized in this manner. They have a "normal/separate" swich on the back with a lock out that needs be removed if to be used in this manner.
I've never owned a receiver, what you profess may work, but if so it makes one wonder why would amps like this exist if so?
I
Don't honestly know just how compatible the tape out is with an aux in, always assumed that they would be the same given that they use the same connections. I've been using this succesfully between my Kenwood and my Karaoke amplifier for a while now, hope I haven't been slowly doing damage to either unit. It never occurred to me that they might be different
I Had a Pioneer receiver that had a preamp out, when using that, that was all the receiver could be used for, the receivers amp and the preamp couldn't be used at the same time. Getting the signal from the tape out would allow the use of a signal from a single source to a receiver in one room and another receiver in a different room. That's one reason why being able to do that would exist.
Don't honestly know just how compatible the tape out is with an aux in, always assumed that they would be the same given that they use the same connections. I've been using this succesfully between my Kenwood and my Karaoke amplifier for a while now, hope I haven't been slowly doing damage to either unit. It never occurred to me that they might be different
That Dorrough goes in between the preamp and amp (or source and load in the manual for the ones I was looking at). You could peg the needles with the amps off, wouldn't really tell you much. Looks to me that a true power meter would need to be in the speaker wire with the meter across a shunt and it'd need to be calibrated to the speaker impedance. In amps with meters built in, they likely tap into the signal path with meters designed around the gain of the amp. Some Crown amps have a light that comes on as the input waveform starts to deviate from the output waveform, indicating distortion that could include clipping (IOC or input/output comparator), even the Hafler shown above has a clip light.
My DSP has dB lights from -24 up to 0 Clip on the inputs and outputs. If I get even the lowest light to flicker, it's "Cops are coming" loud.
My DSP has dB lights from -24 up to 0 Clip on the inputs and outputs. If I get even the lowest light to flicker, it's "Cops are coming" loud.
PastorTube
Well-Known Member
when I built my tube amp (10w UL- SE 6550 output) I used an oscope and 8 ohm dummy load (8 ohm 20 watt resistor) and watched for visual clipping at multiple frequencies. 400hz 1khz, 5k 10k and 20khz. It started to clip around 9.2 watts output at 1k and 5 k. I made a mark on the preamp volume control to show where clipping started. Then I hooked my speakers up turned the volume up to the mark and realized that in my space I could not take the volume up to clipping because it was too loud and hurt my ears. One also needs to remember that a speaker is not a static or purely resistive load. Its an impedance and will have some effect on when and how the amp may clip. A pure resistive load gives you a good idea, but the speaker will be real world conditions.
If I remember correctly in the 80’s there was a big hubabalo over power ratings of amps. Power At what frequency, how much clipping, what load, efficiencies of speakers, etc. some amps were rated much higher that real world conditions so they could sell.
listen to the music, enjoy the sound, tap your toes, and when it don’t sound right turn it down a bit.
If I remember correctly in the 80’s there was a big hubabalo over power ratings of amps. Power At what frequency, how much clipping, what load, efficiencies of speakers, etc. some amps were rated much higher that real world conditions so they could sell.
listen to the music, enjoy the sound, tap your toes, and when it don’t sound right turn it down a bit.